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  #11  
Old 01-10-2018, 12:47 PM
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Alright guy I can’t say thank you enough for the advice the bike is running not top notch just yet but better than before I checked all the connections I could find and found that the San pulse generator was a little loose and the spark plug wire was loose at the harness took it out and it runs better
one last thing I wanna ask at least I hope this will be the last lol
it still bogs down middle rpm range on each gear then it feels like it picks back up closer to switching gears I ordered a new FPR seal for the tank and the in tank fuel filter I’m hoping that will fix the issue is there any way to adjust the air to fuel ratio without a fuel management system anything I can do manually

Again thank u guys for the input I couldn’t have done it without this forum I hope I can help others in the future here
 
  #12  
Old 01-10-2018, 01:39 PM
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Hi if your budget runs to it you could always fit a Power Commander and see if that can smooth out your bogging down, by the way what front and rear sprockets are being used , only they might be the same as PO used, and ask as many questions as you like that's what forums are for
 

Last edited by CaBaRet; 01-10-2018 at 01:59 PM.
  #13  
Old 01-10-2018, 03:25 PM
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I’m out riding now I made a stupid mistake I love trying not to fill it up with fuel bc I’ve had to remove the tank so many times I filled it half way up and I got all my power back plus some I thought on the highway when I get to about 80mph 5th it’s like I hit a switch and it just bogs out I pull over kill the bike a few seconds checked a few things and boom back again then same thing in 5th gear
and it’s a vortex rear sprocket and chain I believe sad far as specifics idk is there a way to check?
 
  #14  
Old 01-11-2018, 01:46 AM
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Hi , should have it stamped on , if not just count them (boring I know) but yours should be 16 front 46 rear , riders swap them to get either better acceleration or better top end , but I would suggest going with factory spec
 
  #15  
Old 01-14-2018, 02:39 PM
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Ok I think I pegged it it has to be the TPS so I’m trying to remove it to see if I see any damage maybe clean it before I buy a new one but it seems it’s part of the throttle body no bolt head to remove it lol of course any times or do I just have to get a new throttle body ?
 
  #16  
Old 01-16-2018, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Weger89
Ok I think I pegged it it has to be the TPS so I’m trying to remove it to see if I see any damage maybe clean it before I buy a new one but it seems it’s part of the throttle body no bolt head to remove it lol of course any times or do I just have to get a new throttle body ?
you can check the TPS by back probing, it states that you might need a new throttle body if not working but I think there could be a way round it by using the sensor off a Honda Accord, but that's a leap of faith, can get those from China (Ali Express) around $8, haven't tried it myself

Back Probe the 3 wires from the tps with a voltmeter. It will have an input voltage
wire, output voltage, and a ground. You need to probe the output voltage wire,
which should be around .4v with the throttle closed, and at wot be someplace
around 5v. While your probing, slowly open the throttle and make sure the volts
slowly but gradually reaches around 5v. Watch for dead spots, if it has them,
it's bad. Best to use an Analogue Meter so the needle moves smoothly
Ground wire - Green/Orange
Input Voltage wire - Yellow/Red
Output voltage wire - Red/Yellow
TR3J -TR4J Honda Accord CRV CRX 2001-2
 

Last edited by CaBaRet; 01-16-2018 at 03:28 AM.
  #17  
Old 01-17-2018, 11:33 AM
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ok just to keep this thread updated
I replaced the spark plugs did oil change replaced FPR in tank fuel filter tank seal fuel lines throttle cables and throttle body
problem was the TPS had dead spots
the bike runs better than when I got it scary acceleration
thanks for the help I couldnt have done it with out this forum
 
  #18  
Old 01-17-2018, 01:42 PM
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Thanks for the update matey, good to see everythings ok
 




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