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Are you a Daredevil? Ever wonder why?

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  #1  
Old 09-13-2009, 12:57 PM
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Default Are you a Daredevil? Ever wonder why?

http://surfermag.com/magazine/archiv...ear/index.html
 
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Old 09-13-2009, 01:23 PM
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Too much on a Sunday night......................
And besides, I ride a "whirlwind" every day, aka Hurricane so...................
I do know this:
The 15 foot diving board at the local pool held no fears when I was 12.
I went back at 18 when in the army - couldn't dive off it, but I could go to war.....
makes you think .................
A friend once told me that you can control fear - that may be -
I just think they've learned to control their minds better than I have.
 

Last edited by Shadow; 09-13-2009 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:49 PM
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I used to be able to do a 2 and a half off a 3 meter board. Worked up to it very slowly, like learning to ride a sportbike.

But there was another guy who just went for it. Collapsed his lungs. Ambulance. Hospital.

It's a little like those Jason Statham movies, Crank. Imagine being uncomfortable unless you were taking an extreme risk.

What with Darwin and all, I'm kind of amazed that such people can still be born.
 
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Old 09-13-2009, 11:02 PM
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They put way too much thought into that. I just hated sitting on my *** being bored. It was more fun to do some crazy **** and laugh about it later. Unless you were crying cause you broke an arm, leg, teeth, ribs, or got your wedding tackle in a jam.
 
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Old 09-15-2009, 03:36 PM
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You call that a wave? Pah! THIS IS A FRICKIN WAVE!!

 
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Old 09-15-2009, 04:30 PM
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Hawk these are the credits for that Vid ........and that was one of the best shoots ever.
My cousin Johnny in OZ ( one time surfer pro) always raves about it too.

Surfer Mike Parson's tow-in surfing a 65 foot wave at Jaws (Peahi) on Maui, Hawaii in January 2002. Cinematography by Peter Fuszard. Surfer Magazine called Fuszard's work, "One of the most brilliantly executed pieces of surf cinematography ever." Peter is an Emmy Award winning cinematographer and director.
 
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Old 09-15-2009, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Sprockaholic
Hawk these are the credits for that Vid ........and that was one of the best shoots ever.
My cousin Johnny in OZ ( one time surfer pro) always raves about it too.

Surfer Mike Parson's tow-in surfing a 65 foot wave at Jaws (Peahi) on Maui, Hawaii in January 2002. Cinematography by Peter Fuszard. Surfer Magazine called Fuszard's work, "One of the most brilliantly executed pieces of surf cinematography ever." Peter is an Emmy Award winning cinematographer and director.
That doesn't surprise me in the least about the Emmy and YES it is one of the best shots ever!

When the shot pans-out and you get a true impression of the size of that thing................****!!! and then when it breaks and he's still on the board , it makes me want to cheer!
 
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Old 09-17-2009, 12:35 AM
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Hawk, wasn't that shot from the movie
"In God's hands"................?
Scary stuff !
 
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Old 09-17-2009, 03:00 AM
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Dunno Pete , but yeah , scary all right! If it was me there'd be a long brown streak behind the board
 



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