Additional info :Alternator damper replacement - success!
 

Ok CBRers,

:icon_attention:

After reading pages and pages and multiple threads on the removal/replacement of the alternator damper I attacked the '91 CBR1000F full of confidence.

If you follow Stu's excellent "How to" available at Replacing the alternator damper on your CBR1000F Honda motorcycle , you'll do pretty well.

I took the opportunity to change all the bearings in the alternator while I had it out, so pressed the shaft out and changed them over for new ones. I also fitted a new alternator damper for $87 AUD rather than farkle the old one.

Now, fitting the shaft back in was interesting and involved two trials, a shi%load more reading and then fabricating/bending a 2.4mm brass wire rod to disengage the alternator chain tensioner.

Reading through threads such as https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f...-damper-96059/ using Druncles tricky but effective method, I found the ONLY way to refit the alternator effectively.

When I did the first two trial fits, the alternator would lock as soon as it was carefully jemmied into place using a long screwdriver and longer bolts to slowly pull it in evenly. I have no hair to pull out, nor a dog to kick, so a few smokes were consumed while I contemplated the dilemma. The problem was the tensioner had released the chain and I was struggling to push the shaft into the damper/rear bearing against the extended tensioner. This locked the chain in position under pressure when it was all fitted up - sheesh!

So from Stu's "How to" once you have massaged the chain back on the replaced/refurbished alternator damper - revert to Druncle's fix before refitting the alternator shaft.

Druncle's fix is to insert a spoke/stiff wire (not too wide) - I found the 2.4mm brass rod with a semi-sharpened end ideal - through the starter motor aperture and bend it in such a way, that it goes to the front of the alternator damper and looking down and forward, you have to push the wire down the back of the tensioner to release the pawl locking it in position. The tensioner if it is working correctly will have extended when the original damper was removed. There is no 'hole' that I could see - and I used a Snap on camera to have a close look - but a slot between the back of the pawl and the body of the tensioner. What you are trying to do is push the wire/spoke into that slot which pivots the tensioner away from the steps in the tensioner arm. It doesn't take that much pressure but pressing down on the wire and down on the top of the chain above the tensioner shows when you have released the pawl. Leave the wire in place.

Leaving the wire/spoke in place, follow Stu's refit guide - and it will be a lot easier/less pressure - it almost falls into place. Don't forget to use the socket over the thread on the end of the shaft as protection for the shaft thread when refitting. Torque up the three bolts on the outside, refit the rear nut and torque as best you can. The pull out the spoke/wire from the starter motor hole and you are nearly finished.

The pleasure of hitting the start button and having the starter motor whir as it should (and start the beast) was extreme!

Thanks to Stu, Druncle and Kaskar (?) for the previously written threads on addressing this issue, it made the job so much easier.

Hope this clarifies the method for those who have to do this in future.

Cheers, SB

PS: Really glad I found this forum :icon_beerchug:

I'm having a hard time finding where to loosen the chain tensioner. I got the damper out and reinstalled with a new one but now I can't get the alternator shaft back in cause the chain is too tight. You mentioned druncles page but I can't find it...

Spoke goes in here! :D

http://i381.photobucket.com/albums/o...tensioner2.jpg

Cheers, SB

Wow... OK I'll try that...

You can see the tang that you would have bent out the way, so it is to the left and down from that!

Good luck and let us know how you go.

Cheers, SB

OK check the time stamps on my posts... Alternator is in.... Luckily when I pushed the tensioner down it didn't spring right back up and I was able to get the alternator in with no issues. I used the socket and tapped with the wood end of the hammer and it popped right into place. Then I noticed I had the housing in the wrong location so I pulled it again and reinstalled... This time without the socket. I had enough slack on the chain that it went right in again with just a few taps of a hammer. If I didn't have to leave for work in 30 min the bike would be running! Thanks so much to everyone who has posted anything to do with this topic! Again going back to the time stamps, less than 25 min to include this post :)

Great stuff man!

Glad to be of assistance.

Cheers, SB

please someone get me this photo. i do not see this place to release the chain tensioner so i can replace the damper.. i have followed this wonderful guide but have came to a head scratching moment in this wonderful fix you guys have gotten together. wonderful job. but a good picture of the location of the tensioner release would be cool. going to try to install tomorrow once i have a proper washer put into to damper. Thanks in Advance.

1989 CBR 1000f Hurricane

SB's been off the forum for a while, but I've got a pic from when I'd done the job. Note that I'd completely removed the alternator chain tensioner as part of a rebuild.

If you're trying to access the release without splitting the crankcase you'll want to go in through the oilpan, and it'll take a bit of patience/luck

Hope that helps

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/cbrforu...5a32d7a2ec.png

Link to video