Starter damper
#1
06-24-2009, 12:52 PM
Starter damper
As some of you may be aware, the damper on my bike is on it's last legs, and won't spin the motor when the bike is hot.................................aaaaaaaaaarg
My questions are these
1 I've been reading Stu's fantastic article on how to replace the damper, but I'm at a loss on how to get enough slack in the chain to "massage it" off the damper sprocket. Anyone have any advice ?
2 There was a comment somewhere about using a bike spoke to loosen the tensioner, through a hole - could someone explain how ?
3 is there a trick to getting the teeth on the starter clutch and the damper to line up..................how do you know when it's wrong ?
4 Instead of shoving a 2mm washer in the damper to take up any slack would it be possible to add a fibre plate and another steel plate........(thanks to Mo for the 3 spare plates)
5 How do you clean the plates to get them to bite again - water paper or what ?
Any advice would be welcome.
Where's Kaska. and Naga Thai....................
Don't just tell me to buy a new unit - can't get at under 150 US delivered, without import duty and 14% tax.......
My questions are these
1 I've been reading Stu's fantastic article on how to replace the damper, but I'm at a loss on how to get enough slack in the chain to "massage it" off the damper sprocket. Anyone have any advice ?
2 There was a comment somewhere about using a bike spoke to loosen the tensioner, through a hole - could someone explain how ?
3 is there a trick to getting the teeth on the starter clutch and the damper to line up..................how do you know when it's wrong ?
4 Instead of shoving a 2mm washer in the damper to take up any slack would it be possible to add a fibre plate and another steel plate........(thanks to Mo for the 3 spare plates)
5 How do you clean the plates to get them to bite again - water paper or what ?
Any advice would be welcome.
Where's Kaska. and Naga Thai....................
Don't just tell me to buy a new unit - can't get at under 150 US delivered, without import duty and 14% tax.......
#2
06-24-2009, 01:12 PM
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Hi Pete!
Have been celebrating the midsummer day in here and was on a little trip. As the sun almost doesn't set and its warm outside its perfect riding weather
so some answers
1. i don't know how good condition will be your tensioner but i managed to get the chain of and on again with simple Swedish army knife.
2. the spoke theory i don't know i used knife.
3. i don't know if i understand the question but why would you want to line them up? if it will go back together its right, but as damper still sometimes slips the teeth cannot ever be lined up?
or do you mean when putting it back together and the damper is already in and chain tensioned and then you put the shaft back in - then you must feel it with fingers or so from the little hole under starter engine i used the shaft bolt to help guide the shaft to its place
4.well it can get too tight but if you manage to get them in why not.
5. I cleaned the plates with motul brake clean contact cleaner and water paper and after you put them back together change the order of plates to gain some new friction.
But all in all, good luck doing the job. Take some beers close to you and don't lose temper tightening bolts
Have been celebrating the midsummer day in here and was on a little trip. As the sun almost doesn't set and its warm outside its perfect riding weather
so some answers
1. i don't know how good condition will be your tensioner but i managed to get the chain of and on again with simple Swedish army knife.
2. the spoke theory i don't know i used knife.
3. i don't know if i understand the question but why would you want to line them up? if it will go back together its right, but as damper still sometimes slips the teeth cannot ever be lined up?
or do you mean when putting it back together and the damper is already in and chain tensioned and then you put the shaft back in - then you must feel it with fingers or so from the little hole under starter engine i used the shaft bolt to help guide the shaft to its place
4.well it can get too tight but if you manage to get them in why not.
5. I cleaned the plates with motul brake clean contact cleaner and water paper and after you put them back together change the order of plates to gain some new friction.
But all in all, good luck doing the job. Take some beers close to you and don't lose temper tightening bolts
#3
06-24-2009, 02:09 PM
#5
06-25-2009, 04:18 PM
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Gawd , yu still doing the bloody damper Pete ... you must be pulling yu hair out by now ...
Ov never done mine so om a blank mate
I will search around for some external help , but I don't like my chances finding any..
I spose the only saving grace is that we know it can be done mate..
All this starter damper stuff has made me paranoid , ...every time I go out and hit the starter button I listen for any weird noises now
Hope someone comes along and helps yu ...
...didn't Beard know about this job ??? maybe yu should shoot a few distress PM's out Pete ...
good luck mate..
Here is the spoke thing ie , if you could not find it Pete ..
Whole post at...
https://cbrforum.com/forum/showthrea...+damper&page=2
I recon the spoke trick is the only way mate ..
Pete ...I recon the advice above from druncle is the way to go... mixing the buggers up will make the wear grooves mis align and cause them to grip...
Dunno about rubbing them with wet and dry paper though ....wont that just make them slip more ??
Ov never done mine so om a blank mate
I will search around for some external help , but I don't like my chances finding any..
I spose the only saving grace is that we know it can be done mate..
All this starter damper stuff has made me paranoid , ...every time I go out and hit the starter button I listen for any weird noises now
Hope someone comes along and helps yu ...
...didn't Beard know about this job ??? maybe yu should shoot a few distress PM's out Pete ...
good luck mate..
2 There was a comment somewhere about using a bike spoke to loosen the tensioner, through a hole - could someone explain how ?
druncle
As an addition......one problem with replacing the damper/ starter clutch is that tension on the alternator chain will inevitably be reduced as the alt shaft is withdrawn. CBR1000f's have a spring loaded tensioner on this chain, and guess what....if it is working properly, youll find that when reassembling, the chain is now too tight to get the shaft back in place properly. ( there is a lot of useful help on this forum, and also a lot of advice which can be time wasting and expensive if followed, I imagine because the authors dont know what theyre talking about...BEWARE!!- ive been there; especially on this very topic!)sooo..
You can do this job with engine in frame-
take off carbs/ airbox/ starter, undo alternator nut, remove alternator shaft.
Hook piece of wire round chain to stop it dropping....Dont bother lieing the bike down (!!!???)
Theres a tang off the alt chain tensioner in the way; bend it down out the way.
The damper should now eventually come out... this is fiddly! have patience!
Have cup of tea and ***.
The tensioner will (should have) automatically have tensioned the chain... If you look at it down the alternator aperture, youll see a spring loaded plunger.. the ratchet on this needs to be disengaged... have second ***.
I got a 6" length of bicycle spoke, and found that if bent to the correct shape, it could enter the engine via the starter motor hole, and go down to where the teeth on the ratchet are. next to these teeth, you can push the spoke thro a hole, at the same time disengaging the ratchet. At this point leave the spoke in situ.
Damper replaced , chain put over it, tang bent back, safety wire round chain removed. Alt shaft & alternator replaced.
Now the magic bit!! the bicycle spoke can be withdrawn thro the starter hole, allowing the tensioner to do its job again. Reassemble everything else.
Have crate of Newky Brown.
This is the result of a very long day yesterday, when I tried to do the job as advised, and found that there was no way to do it, if the tensioner was working!!! Maybe some cbr1000s dont have this tensioner, but I have my doubts!
Its not a difficult job but it is a bit fiddly. Take your time, dont start hitting things with hammers, and itll be ok.
If anyone has any pics of the tensioner; I'd have found them very useful, and so would anyone else doing the job.
Have Fun, John.
As an addition......one problem with replacing the damper/ starter clutch is that tension on the alternator chain will inevitably be reduced as the alt shaft is withdrawn. CBR1000f's have a spring loaded tensioner on this chain, and guess what....if it is working properly, youll find that when reassembling, the chain is now too tight to get the shaft back in place properly. ( there is a lot of useful help on this forum, and also a lot of advice which can be time wasting and expensive if followed, I imagine because the authors dont know what theyre talking about...BEWARE!!- ive been there; especially on this very topic!)sooo..
You can do this job with engine in frame-
take off carbs/ airbox/ starter, undo alternator nut, remove alternator shaft.
Hook piece of wire round chain to stop it dropping....Dont bother lieing the bike down (!!!???)
Theres a tang off the alt chain tensioner in the way; bend it down out the way.
The damper should now eventually come out... this is fiddly! have patience!
Have cup of tea and ***.
The tensioner will (should have) automatically have tensioned the chain... If you look at it down the alternator aperture, youll see a spring loaded plunger.. the ratchet on this needs to be disengaged... have second ***.
I got a 6" length of bicycle spoke, and found that if bent to the correct shape, it could enter the engine via the starter motor hole, and go down to where the teeth on the ratchet are. next to these teeth, you can push the spoke thro a hole, at the same time disengaging the ratchet. At this point leave the spoke in situ.
Damper replaced , chain put over it, tang bent back, safety wire round chain removed. Alt shaft & alternator replaced.
Now the magic bit!! the bicycle spoke can be withdrawn thro the starter hole, allowing the tensioner to do its job again. Reassemble everything else.
Have crate of Newky Brown.
This is the result of a very long day yesterday, when I tried to do the job as advised, and found that there was no way to do it, if the tensioner was working!!! Maybe some cbr1000s dont have this tensioner, but I have my doubts!
Its not a difficult job but it is a bit fiddly. Take your time, dont start hitting things with hammers, and itll be ok.
If anyone has any pics of the tensioner; I'd have found them very useful, and so would anyone else doing the job.
Have Fun, John.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/showthrea...+damper&page=2
1 I've been reading Stu's fantastic article on how to replace the damper, but I'm at a loss on how to get enough slack in the chain to "massage it" off the damper sprocket. Anyone have any advice ?
5 How do you clean the plates to get them to bite again - water paper or what ?
Any advice would be welcome.
Any advice would be welcome.
Dunno about rubbing them with wet and dry paper though ....wont that just make them slip more ??
Last edited by CBRclassic; 06-25-2009 at 06:05 PM.
#6
06-26-2009, 08:16 AM
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I recon the spoke trick is the only way mate ..
Pete ...I recon the advice above from druncle is the way to go... mixing the buggers up will make the wear grooves mis align and cause them to grip...
Dunno about rubbing them with wet and dry paper though ....wont that just make them slip more ??
Pete ...I recon the advice above from druncle is the way to go... mixing the buggers up will make the wear grooves mis align and cause them to grip...
Dunno about rubbing them with wet and dry paper though ....wont that just make them slip more ??
As far as rubbing the plates down with wet n dry, Hmmmm. I think you'd want to roughen them slightly and not go overboard with the wet n dry.
Another thing keeps shouting at me is the use of diesel engine oil, I know lots of folks are running it with no adverse effects, maybe not....
Keep us posted on your progress, I know you said that you're gonna be busy for a few weeks, but the job will only take a few hours and you'll be surprised how easy it is once you've completed it.
#7
06-26-2009, 08:31 AM
#8
06-26-2009, 06:41 PM
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and after all this mate , I recon we need a revised version of this whole procedure I think? ...or at least the tricky bits with a full set of pic'ies ...
#9
06-29-2009, 10:40 AM
#10
07-01-2009, 07:49 AM
Hi shadow, the bike spoke trick was the only way I could figure to do this job without an engine strip. Once I'd figured it out (pure desperation), it worked without a hitch, and I'd have no real worries if I had to replace another now. As I mentioned before, that tensioner on the chain needs releasing to get the damper sprocket back in place; theres no other way round the situation if the tensioner is doing its job. As posted, the release pawl/ratchet thing has a little hole on its upper side which allows this. First thing I did was to feel aroundthrough the alt hole with the spoke to find the position of the release mechanism. Once a rough idea is got as to where this is, the spoke can be bent to the appropriate shape, which takes a lot of fiddling, and then inserted from the starter motor hole. It needs to go in that way, otherwise it gets in the way of everything.The chain tension can be released once this is done. Make sure the end of the spoke is filed nice and smooth otherwise it can catch in the release mechanism when you try to withdraw. I used bicycle spoke as it is narrow enough to go into the release hole, but thick enough to have the necessary rigidity. Good luck, send a post if in any doubt,
Cheers John
Cheers John