I first started out using the stock taillight and the bulbs for an integrated tail light. I was uphappy with the "noticability" of the flasher brake combination.
So then i got a smoked d2moto.com taillight and was disappointed in the brightness/viewing angle. Clear alternatives was too expensive, and i thought i could do better myself...So, i have decided to make my own superbright integrated LED tail light.

First off, i want to say that this is not the conventional "how-to". This is more of a i show you everything you need to make it and you figure out the minor details like wire routing. Im not here to teach you how to solder kiddies

Ok, below is a general diagram of the control circuitry. One of the main issues i want to be in control of since my LED arrays will be overlapped signal and brake, was disabling the brake on the signal side of the light while the signal is on, while the other side remains lit. That is where most of this "junk" comes in.



Only thing i forgot in the diagram is that in mine i have a strip of LEDS down the middle that is ALWAYS on(doesnt turn off with either signal)

So with that diagram, the parts are as follows:
(4) LM7812 12V V regs
(2) Standard Diodes
(2) 10W 2.2Kohm Resistors
(4) TIP31A Transistors
(2) 1/2W 2.2Kohm Resistors
(1) 2K 1/2W Potentiometer (in place of the 330ohm resistor mentioned in the video below)
(56) Amber Superflux LED's
(63) Red Superflux LED's
(21) 82 ohm 1/4W Resistors
(1) 390 ohm 1/2W Resistor
(4) 330 ohm 1/4W Resistors

I believe thats it...
Here are the LED's i bought, if you get different ones you will most likely need different resistors based on their Vf and If ratings. Please notice the viewing angle and brightness of the LED's. Also the wavelength of the yellow is halfway between yellow and orange, so its more amber in color than yellow or orange.
LED's -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_2780wt_872
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_2804wt_872

I also chose to get a heatsink on the 12V voltage regulator that was for the brake. It seemed to be getting the hottest. In turn the heatsink covers about half of the Running light regulator as well.

Okay, so now you know about the materials and the control circuitry, lets take a look at the LED arrays. You CANNOT just daisy chain them all together. They will not light up on 12V. With my calculations, you can place a MAX of 5 LED's in a row before the begin to lose optimum Vf. If there are 5 in a row, use an 82 ohm resistor, if there are less you will need higher resistors. (4 = 180 ohms, 3 = 290ish, 2 = 390 ohms) The numbers on the red and orange squares below are the many different arrays.



Ok, so that seems about all the information i have right now to help you. Please if you do not understand it, do not attempt it before fully understanding it. Here is a picture of my control board, and a quick video demo of the functionality.



[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Zg1t8x6PUw[/youtube]

 

Cool, I'd like to see pics of the finished product... nice work!

 

UPDATE: Got my LED's, spent the last 5 hours soldering up about half of my tail:

I deserve a medal after i finish this thing...If i actually go about producing them, i am going to get PCB's made so all i have to do is solder on the LED's and resistors.


And a quick video:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhUdT8uoGoU[/youtube]

 

Looks really cool - nice work.

 

Looking good, definitely brighter than the one that I made. The only issue I noticed when I had mine was that it's hard to get the PCB in the taillight housing at a decent viewing angle. Here's the one I had, and had eventually modified it to be more like yours with the left and right halves flashing for the turns. Ended up just going with a 954rr taillight though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqvP2zUBCgU

 

The viewing angle on the LED's are per the specs 130 degrees...Actual angle from what i have seen is closer to around 110 degrees, which is still much more than conventional domed LED's...especially of this brightness.

 

All Done!







Before and after running lightssame exposure, f-stop)

Before and after brake lightssame exposure, f-stop)


And now for the reason for doing this in the first place, before and after running light viewed from 45 degrees from the rear of the bike(same exposure, f-stop):


Great-a sucessa!
Video to come!

 

A lot of light bleeding in the video...the signal/brake line is sharp
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoOHNoa1NjA[/youtube]

 

Damn Man that is really awesome ......... looks absolutely great man ...... great work

Slicker than **** !

 

Very nice work, Redz. Props on doing all that soldering, too - yikes!