My Fender Eliminator DIY....
#1
My Fender Eliminator DIY....
Keep in mind I have done the LED in the rear peg bracket mod for turn signals. I don't like 2 round tail lights that come with most undertails, and the high price plays a big part.
Here is what I used for materials:
Fairly strong guage aluminum sheet metal about 12"x15" or so
5Aluminum rivits
2 stainless allen head screws with nylon lock nuts
1" by 1" aluminum angle about 5" for plate
Self etching primer
Blue base coat paint
Clear coat paint
I did this mod in satin black first and it looked good, But I like the body color better, ties the tail light into the tail better I think.
Step 1:
Scribe a line along the existing undertray at the bottom of the tail as a cut reference line.
Step 2:
Disassemble tail and untertail tray, this should only take about 15 minutes, fairly easy and straight foward.
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/D518F2EF9CB04BD28F3C2FB2CC427080.jpg[/IMG]
Here is what I used for materials:
Fairly strong guage aluminum sheet metal about 12"x15" or so
5Aluminum rivits
2 stainless allen head screws with nylon lock nuts
1" by 1" aluminum angle about 5" for plate
Self etching primer
Blue base coat paint
Clear coat paint
I did this mod in satin black first and it looked good, But I like the body color better, ties the tail light into the tail better I think.
Step 1:
Scribe a line along the existing undertray at the bottom of the tail as a cut reference line.
Step 2:
Disassemble tail and untertail tray, this should only take about 15 minutes, fairly easy and straight foward.
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/D518F2EF9CB04BD28F3C2FB2CC427080.jpg[/IMG]
#2
RE: My Fender Eliminator DIY....
Step 3:
Using a sawzall with a fine tooth blade I cut about a 16th of an inch above the scribe line on each side, then connect the cuts across the tray. The goal is to have a smooth surface for the aluminum to sit on....
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/3F58852481FE4506B067CFDD05A5E89C.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/08F1C1F87E4A4C3CA283A3853F0296A6.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/AF9E3D8E01EA4BB1B6E93D8FFBA36779.jpg[/IMG]
Using a sawzall with a fine tooth blade I cut about a 16th of an inch above the scribe line on each side, then connect the cuts across the tray. The goal is to have a smooth surface for the aluminum to sit on....
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/3F58852481FE4506B067CFDD05A5E89C.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/08F1C1F87E4A4C3CA283A3853F0296A6.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/AF9E3D8E01EA4BB1B6E93D8FFBA36779.jpg[/IMG]
#3
RE: My Fender Eliminator DIY....
Step 4:
Cut the sheet metal, I used hand tin snips.
I placed the freshly cut part of the under tray on the aluminum, lining up the flat edge a little past the holes in the undertray that the plastic pop rivit screw thingys go in. Make sure to mark the holes to drill later.
I then slid the sheet metal (cut a little bigger than needed) in the tail section and lined up the marked holes to be drilled later, and marked where the tail light starts on each side. I then took a round object (a dinner plate) and marked the arc which matched the arc on the tail light.
You now have almost a complete trace to cut. I made little tabs left to bend up into the undertray to rivit on. This holds the piece in place.
See pics here on the shape I went with.
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/585CE086360D425FB1B3C83CFBF3EA50.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/3CE3EC24773044AC8A77415485FB6541.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/EA33B51E889E4FB59A9F01F517EE1007.jpg[/IMG]
Cut the sheet metal, I used hand tin snips.
I placed the freshly cut part of the under tray on the aluminum, lining up the flat edge a little past the holes in the undertray that the plastic pop rivit screw thingys go in. Make sure to mark the holes to drill later.
I then slid the sheet metal (cut a little bigger than needed) in the tail section and lined up the marked holes to be drilled later, and marked where the tail light starts on each side. I then took a round object (a dinner plate) and marked the arc which matched the arc on the tail light.
You now have almost a complete trace to cut. I made little tabs left to bend up into the undertray to rivit on. This holds the piece in place.
See pics here on the shape I went with.
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/585CE086360D425FB1B3C83CFBF3EA50.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/3CE3EC24773044AC8A77415485FB6541.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/EA33B51E889E4FB59A9F01F517EE1007.jpg[/IMG]
#5
RE: My Fender Eliminator DIY....
You can see where I put the two bolts in the rear which makes 4 mounting points. Rivets wouldn't work here
You can now make the hole for the lock, and drill and rivet the angle on for a plate holder.
I painted the inside flat black so it looks nice when you remove the seat.
I put the Honda decal on it because I am removing the smaller upper one above the tail light. None of the sticker kits I have got have a matching small honda for above the tail so I went under with it.
I will post a pic later of the whole thing back together again.
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/71F2C22B0A9C4D328CBAF69068B10AE6.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/954360DED7E647DFAF009FAA67C84B66.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/E5315551BD144D488CDA2DF9F2DC2507.jpg[/IMG]
You can now make the hole for the lock, and drill and rivet the angle on for a plate holder.
I painted the inside flat black so it looks nice when you remove the seat.
I put the Honda decal on it because I am removing the smaller upper one above the tail light. None of the sticker kits I have got have a matching small honda for above the tail so I went under with it.
I will post a pic later of the whole thing back together again.
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/71F2C22B0A9C4D328CBAF69068B10AE6.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/954360DED7E647DFAF009FAA67C84B66.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/20287/E5315551BD144D488CDA2DF9F2DC2507.jpg[/IMG]
#6
#9
RE: My Fender Eliminator DIY....
Ahhh.... the paint....
Autozone Duplicolor professional Body shop paint in a quart. $19.95, there are like 4 generic colors, one called deep blue..
Thats the one, it is VERY close to factory, certainly close enough for the underside of the tail... If I could pick any difference it would be the paint I used has a little less red/purple mixed in the blue. Very close though.
As for clear coat, I used Duplicolor spray bomb, acrylic lacquer.
I also painted my grab bar block off plates the same color, I think I can pull it off to look factory...
The cool thing about the factory blue is it looks different depending at what angle you look at it. This allows the match to be not perfect and still mix well.
Autozone Duplicolor professional Body shop paint in a quart. $19.95, there are like 4 generic colors, one called deep blue..
Thats the one, it is VERY close to factory, certainly close enough for the underside of the tail... If I could pick any difference it would be the paint I used has a little less red/purple mixed in the blue. Very close though.
As for clear coat, I used Duplicolor spray bomb, acrylic lacquer.
I also painted my grab bar block off plates the same color, I think I can pull it off to look factory...
The cool thing about the factory blue is it looks different depending at what angle you look at it. This allows the match to be not perfect and still mix well.
#10
RE: My Fender Eliminator DIY....
After looking at my grab block off plates, I wouldn't use this paint to match high visibility areas, its not quite as close as it looked wet.
With the undertail though, it is almost impossible to see a difference, because the sun doesn't hit it and its a totally different angle.
With the undertail though, it is almost impossible to see a difference, because the sun doesn't hit it and its a totally different angle.