I have a 99 cbr 600 f4, which i recently installed stainless brake lines on.
it went a little something like this:
1. materials:
brake lines
one bottle motul 5.1 (enough for front and back)
11 crush washers
2-3 feet of clear plastic tubing (buy the one man bleeder kit $7 advanced auto parts)
set of metricwrenches (no ****)
phillips head screw driver

it took about 5 hours, because it rained, and i did both the front and back lines. and i had some taco bell yummy

first, get every thing together, thats not the brake fluid i used, but it was going to be until i found the motul 5.1


second prep motorcycle, i recommend taking the front fender off


third begin to bleed your brakes from the caliper, don't forget to remove reservoir cap


enough with the counting. when you have removed all the line brake fluid, use cotton *****
or shop rags to remove the rest ofthe brake fluid from the reservoir.


remove banjo bolts from the caliper on each side, or one at a time. depending on where you bought your lines
you might need to save the banjo bolts.


next remove line from the reservoir, and remove all the brackets that hold them in place. put your new
lines on at the reservoir, but do not tighten yet. make sure you have the tops at the top, and the bottoms at the bottom. lol
it makes a difference. don't forget crush washers. goo gone gets rid of those stickers like magic.


next attach your brake lines at the calipers, don't forget crush washers, and don't misplace your banjo bolt.
go ahead and tighten to specified amount. replace line holders, and tighten the banjo bolt that goes into brake pump.

add fluid and begin to bleed your brakes. it took me quite some tme to get all/98% of the air out.

replace reservoir cap.

put fairing back on unless you have lost most of your screws that hold them on (lol, experience talking, home depot!), or if you ride a naked bike.












and heres a picture of the rear finished




oh yeah, for off road use only, so i will see you guys at the next track day, or maybe riding the appalachian trail with my knobbys on! haha

 

nice write up...haha..figures i am doing mine tonight...i guess no need to write up my install...the only thing different is i won't be putting mine on right away...i am shipping out the calipers to be powdercoated....i will post pics though when i am done...

overall though, great write up for the newbs...

 

haha its all about the join date, i was on deployment for 6 months haha, that explains the upgrades

 

This really doesn't look THAT difficult. I just replaced my front and rear brake fluid and I think the brakes are just as spongy as they were last season. Will SS brake lines make my brakes feel like they were when they were brand new? I just really don't like the feeling of having the lever pulled all the way back almost to the clip on. Maybe I did something else wrong when I did the brakes but I made sure there was NO air coming through for maybe 10 bleeds before I sealed it all up.

Anyway, do you have to cut zip ties or anything like that when you get rid of the old lines? Should the new lines be rezip tied in? What about equal brake fluid? I talked to the guy at the dealership in parts and he said that those SS race lines that are two seperate lines will fill up with different amounts of brake fluid and then your bike will pull one way when you try to stop hard and you'll end up wrecking. How true is that?

I'm thinking of ordering some lines if they will really decrease the spongy feel of my brake lever.

Mike

 

okay first and foremost...don't EVER go back to that dealership guy...he's a retard....i don't know why he has a job...that is the most ridiculous thing i have ever heard....EVERY major motoGP racer runs dual SS lines....some run a T-block, but it's essentially the same thing....grrr...stealerships...

as to your questions, yes it will firm up your lever quite a bit and they will bite more consistently...SS lines are often considered the best bang for your buck mod out there....

as for zip ties...none of my lines were "zip-tied" in place but rather held with a couple of brackets....you can do it however you want....mine are only attached at the calipers and ran together to the M/C...

it's not hard if you can bleed your brakes....that's the hardest part...

 

Ok sweet thanks man I'm going to order a set of SS lines then with my Pazzos. =)

Thanks again!!

Mike

 

no problem...post pics when you are done.. .....btw....with the pazzos, the lever feels real nice because not only do you get the firmness of the lines, but the adjustability of thepazzos allows you to set it just right...i have both and my bike breaks awesome...

now i have galfer wave rotors and HH sintered pads on the way so it should be a stopping machine...LOL

 

Get Speed Bleeders
https://www.riverwayracing.com/store...p;bestseller=Y

best addition to doing brake bleeding you can make! I have bled brakes without them and it sucks. So I tried these and they are awesome. 15-20 minute job.

Also, you dont need to clip your lines to anything in the front. I just left mine hanging and they are fine. Rear line I just held in place by the stock clips.

 

same here....hey jump...i know you sell parts.... ...do you have BLACK or RED speed bleeders and how much would a set front and rear run?

btw...i do have to agree...the tightening and loosening thing of the banjo while bleeding brakes sucks....

however, when you install SS lines you are going to bleed them dry so you would be best getting a vaccum pump to pull the fluid all the way into the calipers

 

the bleeders come in either OEM Steel or SS. The red you see on the picture on my site is of the thread seal compound. Price is $7 for OEM Steel which is what I run as you cant see them anyway with the black rubber covering you get for them. Or you can get SS for $15.

When I switched out my lines I didnt bleed them dry at all. I just swapped the lines and then bled as normal.

With the speed bleeders there isnt any need for a vacuum pump or at least I didnt need one. I just kept pumping the brake. I put the lid back on the resevoir to create the initial vacuum then took it back off to fill and finish the bleeding process. The fronts did take longer as it is two lines to get fluid into but it will get there. Just make sure to do both sides a little at first to create that intial vacuum then its smooth sailing. The hardest part with the fronts is to just get it started.

Seriously, I did mine in about 20 minutes for front and rear. I was absolutely shocked by this.