easy seat cowl
#1
easy seat cowl
So I have my rashed passenger seat when I flipped my 04 RR. I don't feel like buying a new seat so I'm converting the old seat into a seat cowl. Nothing too fancy. Here's a few pics of it so far.
rashed seat. I just removed all of the staples holding the leather in place.
I fitted a fiberglass cloth over the seat leaving about 1" or 2 of play. I tucked in the excess fabric to the under side and used thumbtacks plus a hammer to hold the fiberglass in place.
I mixed about 2 tablespoons worth of resin and applied it directly over the fabric using a Wendy's Spoon ( ). I applied a bit of pressure to the liquid resin so that it penetrates the fabric for a much stronger layer. Then I evenly spread the resin, leveling the surface with my hand. Remember, resin is nasty ****. Use breathing mask and gloves. I'll check how hard the layer is and may add either another layer of resin or another layer of fiberglass + resin. In all, took about an hour to do. Very simple. But I still have bondo, primer, and paint left, but I don't get to that till I'm ready to do the rest of the body work.
rashed seat. I just removed all of the staples holding the leather in place.
I fitted a fiberglass cloth over the seat leaving about 1" or 2 of play. I tucked in the excess fabric to the under side and used thumbtacks plus a hammer to hold the fiberglass in place.
I mixed about 2 tablespoons worth of resin and applied it directly over the fabric using a Wendy's Spoon ( ). I applied a bit of pressure to the liquid resin so that it penetrates the fabric for a much stronger layer. Then I evenly spread the resin, leveling the surface with my hand. Remember, resin is nasty ****. Use breathing mask and gloves. I'll check how hard the layer is and may add either another layer of resin or another layer of fiberglass + resin. In all, took about an hour to do. Very simple. But I still have bondo, primer, and paint left, but I don't get to that till I'm ready to do the rest of the body work.
#3
#4
RE: easy seat cowl
I check it today, way too soft. I'll have to add at least another layer or two. You can get the standard size (6 oz) fiberglass cloth and resin at any auto parts store, walmart and what have you. I actually have a 10oz fiberglass cloth that I bought from a boat supply store when my friend and I made a custom sub box. I also got about 5 gal. worth or resin. I was going to build the seat up with foam, but I didn't feel like it. Besides, I can get rashed seats for like 10 bucks a pop.
#5
RE: easy seat cowl
looks good so far.....if you alternate fg cloth and the chopped type fg it'll probably be stronger....cause the chopped mat seems to be more sturdy than the cloth.....i'll be doing somewhat the same thing on my 929, but i'm gonna use some left over cf that i have left from a car project for my top layer....
#6
#8
RE: easy seat cowl
ORIGINAL: JBaz
I check it today, way too soft. I'll have to add at least another layer or two. You can get the standard size (6 oz) fiberglass cloth and resin at any auto parts store, walmart and what have you. I actually have a 10oz fiberglass cloth that I bought from a boat supply store when my friend and I made a custom sub box. I also got about 5 gal. worth or resin. I was going to build the seat up with foam, but I didn't feel like it. Besides, I can get rashed seats for like 10 bucks a pop.
I check it today, way too soft. I'll have to add at least another layer or two. You can get the standard size (6 oz) fiberglass cloth and resin at any auto parts store, walmart and what have you. I actually have a 10oz fiberglass cloth that I bought from a boat supply store when my friend and I made a custom sub box. I also got about 5 gal. worth or resin. I was going to build the seat up with foam, but I didn't feel like it. Besides, I can get rashed seats for like 10 bucks a pop.
GT - there is alot of people around town parting off there bikes.. if not, go to the salavage yard or something..
I heard you have to use vacuum during the curing process.
Thats what I am trying to do, but I built up some foam in the middle to give it that bump
(you still have bondo process and painting)
but in the end - your cowl should be very strong, if you got most of the bubbles out and enough layers on. (strong would be like trying to bend it, put pressure on it)
below is an example of making a custom design cowl -
yellow lines are staples that will make the bump in the middle (if you stretched the cloth over a hump, you need to staple it down to get your desire look because we all know cloth being stretched is going to get into those groves)
the red lines are staples for simple groves that will one off the look (once again, the stretched cloth wont go into the groves unless you make it go haha)
couple more tips - If your doing CF (chopped fiberglass), you can use just any kind of fabric really.. the best will be the most absorbnent - i think they say Cotton is the best to use. just stretch it like JBaz did, resin the cloth and start putting layers of CF on.
bubbles are the enemy, if you see any of them try to remove them as soon as possible because an air pocket inside a finish product is a weak point and you be sure it will break there first then anywhere else..
also you can use a heater (or a heating light) to speed up the curing process if you like.
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#10