Coolant Flush F4i/RR
#1
Coolant Flush F4i/RR
Tools needed:
10mm socket. Shallow for engine block.
3/8 ratchet.
Torque wrench.
5mm Allen for fairings.
Screwdriver or pliers for overflow hose.
Drain bucket.
3-4 qts of Honda Pro Coolant or equivalent.
Things that need to be removed:
Both fairings.
Right ram air cover.
Right ram air tube/assembly.
First put the bike on its kickstand. You do not need a rear stand for this procedure.
Remove the radiator cap (MAKE SURE THE BIKE IS COLD) Begin by removing the overflow bottle hose and pulling it away from the radiator and out from inside the frame so it can flow out.The hose must be lower then the overflow bottle so coolant will start flowing.Once empty put the hose back on the radiator.
Let that drain. I made the mistake of trying to suck more out and got a nice taste haha.
Next remove the water pump drain bolt.Im sure you can remove the lower bolt but i did this according to the service manual so.
Let that drain, you can pull the bolt completly out or just partially in so it drains. Once empty and no more coolant comes out torque it to 9ftlbs.
Now this part is optional but i was able to get a bit more coolant out. If you have big hands it might be hard to do. This bolt is located by the #1 cylinder exhaust port. Its hard to get to so you will need either a 10mm shallow or a 10mm wrench. I suggest the 10mm shallow socket so you can torque it back up.
Let it drain then torque to 9ft lbs.
Now fill the radiator up. Should take close to 2-2.5 quarts.Fill the overflow to the min line.Start the bike up and bleep the throttle 2-3 times with the cap still off. Top of the coolant level. You can let the bike run for a couple mins to purge even more air out. Put the cap back on make sure its on all the way and tight and let the bike warm up to operating temp. If it overheats or does not get to temp then there might still be air bubbles in the system. Let the system cool and take the cap off then start the bike back up and purge it a couple more times.
Any questions feel free to ask. I also changed my oil while i was in the process. I also let the bike get up to 223degrees so the fan would come on to make sure it doesn't overheart. i will be doing a DIY brake bleed once my vaccuum pump gets here.
10mm socket. Shallow for engine block.
3/8 ratchet.
Torque wrench.
5mm Allen for fairings.
Screwdriver or pliers for overflow hose.
Drain bucket.
3-4 qts of Honda Pro Coolant or equivalent.
Things that need to be removed:
Both fairings.
Right ram air cover.
Right ram air tube/assembly.
First put the bike on its kickstand. You do not need a rear stand for this procedure.
Remove the radiator cap (MAKE SURE THE BIKE IS COLD) Begin by removing the overflow bottle hose and pulling it away from the radiator and out from inside the frame so it can flow out.The hose must be lower then the overflow bottle so coolant will start flowing.Once empty put the hose back on the radiator.
Let that drain. I made the mistake of trying to suck more out and got a nice taste haha.
Next remove the water pump drain bolt.Im sure you can remove the lower bolt but i did this according to the service manual so.
Let that drain, you can pull the bolt completly out or just partially in so it drains. Once empty and no more coolant comes out torque it to 9ftlbs.
Now this part is optional but i was able to get a bit more coolant out. If you have big hands it might be hard to do. This bolt is located by the #1 cylinder exhaust port. Its hard to get to so you will need either a 10mm shallow or a 10mm wrench. I suggest the 10mm shallow socket so you can torque it back up.
Let it drain then torque to 9ft lbs.
Now fill the radiator up. Should take close to 2-2.5 quarts.Fill the overflow to the min line.Start the bike up and bleep the throttle 2-3 times with the cap still off. Top of the coolant level. You can let the bike run for a couple mins to purge even more air out. Put the cap back on make sure its on all the way and tight and let the bike warm up to operating temp. If it overheats or does not get to temp then there might still be air bubbles in the system. Let the system cool and take the cap off then start the bike back up and purge it a couple more times.
Any questions feel free to ask. I also changed my oil while i was in the process. I also let the bike get up to 223degrees so the fan would come on to make sure it doesn't overheart. i will be doing a DIY brake bleed once my vaccuum pump gets here.
#3
RE: Coolant Flush f4i/RR
I'm getting ready to do this to my 929 and b4 ido it, i just wanted to know wut kinda coolant did u use? Im doing this to my bike to save me some money and bcuz its overheating and i think this might b the problem. i have never done this so b4 i f*ck it up i figured i'd ask. any info would b alot of help.
#4
RE: Coolant Flush f4i/RR
I used Honda coolant made for the motorcycle. If your bike is overheating might be a problem, maybe the fan isnt coming on or staying on long enough, could possibly be your thermostat not opening and closing.
Coolant is supposed to be changed every 6yrs or 24k miles on the bike if i recall. Brake bleeding is next. Thats 2yrs every 12k whichever comes first and the bike is 6yrs old lol
Coolant is supposed to be changed every 6yrs or 24k miles on the bike if i recall. Brake bleeding is next. Thats 2yrs every 12k whichever comes first and the bike is 6yrs old lol
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