Ok members, just want to hear all comments on older carburetor bikes...my bike is a 94'....i want to know how long do you guy warm up before riding.

Here the thing I notice about my bike. When cold start, I pull the choke...fire up....choke holds for 20-30 second or so an comes back down to 1.2 rpm...but bike is still cold so it idles rough...I had to adjust to idle to 1.8rpm or so to hold a smooth rev.

Now if i start riding when engine is cold, it's not smooth, not crisp....sometimes when I'm in hurry, I just ride it out....about 5-10min into the ride, bike warms up....then at a stop light...i notice idle is now at 3-4 rpm...that's too high so i adjust back down to 1.3 or 1.5.....i know the reason why idle is high because when bike is cold, I had to adjust the idle higher to warm up bike (cause the choke drop out)....

Is this anyway normal? For an 18 years old bike...

My question is:

1. Is there anyway to control or hold the choke until bike is all warmed up. Right now, choke only works for 20-30seconds, then cancels out even if engine still cold. If I am able to keep the choke engage for 5 minutes, then ride the bike, everything would be ok. Now what I do is when the choke cancels out, I give it throttle manually and hold throttle at 3-4 rpm for few minutes...once bike warms up, it runs like a champ.

2. Does this have anything to do with the carb need cleaning, adjusting, etc....

Or do all older bike have to warm up 5-10minutes before riding.....

 

Sounds like the idle circuit is too lean for starters and possibly the carbs could use being balanced.

The choke is a direct connection to the cable so if the cable is pulled, the choke is on. If your saying the choke releases on it's own, you can adjust that by tighting the plastic ring that sits under the choke **** till it stays on when pulled. If that doesn't work there is an oring in the cable housing that is shot and will fix that.

I'm roughly in a similar climate as you and I don't even need the choke unless the bike has been sitting for a really long time. It will fire right off using the choke but then you gotta play the 'choke' game for a few.

I start it cold with just a touch of throttle and the about second on the starter and she lights rights off. In about a minute she'll take some throttle snapping and a minute or so later she's ready to go.

But I'm kinda **** so my bikes are tuned to absolute perfection. (IMO)

 

The choke **** stays up though...just the idle drops back down, eventhough the choke **** is up.

 

wouldnt hurt to clean the carbs and tune them a bit. but with my 98 f3, whenever i go out ill start it up, get all my gear on, then take off, usually about 3-4 minutes idling
but when i start it cold ill use the choke for about 10 seconds, revs will go up to around 3k, then ill take off the choke, it idles kinda rough for a little while, but by the time i get all my gear on shes ready to go.
you shouldnt have to mess with the idle speed to get it started/warmed up

 

Yes, I'll look into servicing the carbs...it's time. I may need to tweak the choke cable too.

18yo...she needs attention

 

Try putting another 1/4 turn out on the idle ('enrichment' ) screws, see what happens.

 

When I start mine I bounce it off the rev limiter for 10seconds and that gets it to operating temp

 

When I start mine I turn the choke on, and once the RPMs start to get up there (I just listen to the engine, don't look at the tach) I turn the choke down to about half and let it sit there till the RPMs rise again at which point I shut it off and it idles smooth. I let it sit for a minute or two before I get on the bike.

 

Most bikes take a bit to warm up. Even fuel injected bikes will not act perfect until they are warmed up.

When you say it cancels out, do you mean the choke is still engaged but the rpms just drop? or does the choke lever physically move back? You may want to try half choke if you can after your 20-30 second time frame.

In addition to the carb cleaning, you may try (if you haven't yet) is a new set of plugs. Also check your wires and caps. I had a similar issue with an older F3 that I was running champion plugs in. It would idle terrible until it was really warm. I swapped the plugs out with a new set of NGK iridiums and it was a completely different bike. Always idled perfect even when cold. If you are having a slight misfire under cold conditions, it can cause the issues your having. I also found on that bike plugs with a screw on cap instead of the cap being one solid piece made a difference as well. The electrical system and iginition system on these bikes are very minimal and any little varience can cause issues.

 

I have a similar problem.. just much worse.. can crank on my bike for 15+ minutes trying to start it most the time i'll kill the battery and have to jump it, just had carbs cleaned tuned and jetted. no change, have to play with the throttle for about 5 minutes to get it to even rev up. it extremely slowly climbs in rpm messing with it, if i give it the slightest bit too much throttle it drops and dies. Dont suppose any of you guys know how i can fix that?