Track bike almost complete. any input?
#1
02-21-2008, 12:23 PM
Track bike almost complete. any input?
The 2006 1krr that was my street bike is now the first track bike for me.
I have to find some suspension for the bike and a few here and there things and ill be good to go i believe.
if anybody has any suggestions please let me know.
-HotBodies Race set fairings
-woodcraft SS lines all the way around
-vortex rearsets
-vortex 15/44 sprockets
-full Ti akropovic exhaust
-Pc3
-Intake Mod
-PP 2ct's
-Shogun Swingarm and Fork spools
Suspension is next. Followed by maybe slipper clutch or cam.
what do yall think?
pictures will be up as soon as she is finished being put together.
I have to find some suspension for the bike and a few here and there things and ill be good to go i believe.
if anybody has any suggestions please let me know.
-HotBodies Race set fairings
-woodcraft SS lines all the way around
-vortex rearsets
-vortex 15/44 sprockets
-full Ti akropovic exhaust
-Pc3
-Intake Mod
-PP 2ct's
-Shogun Swingarm and Fork spools
Suspension is next. Followed by maybe slipper clutch or cam.
what do yall think?
pictures will be up as soon as she is finished being put together.
#3
02-21-2008, 04:35 PM
RE: Track bike almost complete. any input?
i raced go karts when i was younger.
and then motorcross until about a year ago.
and have been riding the bike for about 6 months.
ive never been on a track. but a day on the streets for us is pretty extreme.
i have put 10k miles on the bike in 6 months and all 10k miles have been on the curviest roads we could find.
and then motorcross until about a year ago.
and have been riding the bike for about 6 months.
ive never been on a track. but a day on the streets for us is pretty extreme.
i have put 10k miles on the bike in 6 months and all 10k miles have been on the curviest roads we could find.
#5
02-21-2008, 07:46 PM
#6
02-21-2008, 08:30 PM
#8
02-21-2008, 09:14 PM
RE: Track bike almost complete. any input?
no not quite...
ive got alot to learn.
but i have learned alot on the streets around here.
enought to get started.
in the last 6 months i have put in 10k miles. and thats avoiding all straight roads.
im as ready as i can get without having ever touched a track.
we just dont have a decent local track or i would have already started on that.
ive got alot to learn.
but i have learned alot on the streets around here.
enought to get started.
in the last 6 months i have put in 10k miles. and thats avoiding all straight roads.
im as ready as i can get without having ever touched a track.
we just dont have a decent local track or i would have already started on that.
#9
02-21-2008, 09:35 PM
RE: Track bike almost complete. any input?
Dont have someone setup your suspension, do it yourself ! ! ! If you really want to be fast, and get good you need to learn this. Its not the easiest, and there will be a lot of trial and error, but once you completly understand your suspension that knowledge to adjust is worth its weight in gold. I am gonna put a lot here, but read it, re read it, then go tinker and trial. Best of luck bro.
General guideline
The general guideline in road racing is that the suspension has to support the tires to create the best possible grip. For this reason suspension plays it's most important role in corners, chicanes, acceleration and braking. In the straight line the suspension works satisfactory if it can absorb the bumps without causing instability.
Suspension stroke
A road race bike should normally not use its full suspension stroke, although on some circuit one or two big bumps or hollows can cause the suspension to bottom. Also landing of front wheel after wheelies can cause excessive use of the front fork stroke. If suspension bottoms in big bump or hollow, it should not automatically mean that the suspension should be set harder. However, if suspension bottoms at the place were the maximum grip is essential the tire cannot create the best traction, because it also has to perform as spring. Adjusting the setting is necessary. During every riding session the suspension stroke should be carefully checked. When tire grip and lap times improve, the suspension has a harder job. So, setting must be set harder. On the opposite, when it starts raining tire grip and lap times go down, in that case a softer setting should be applied.
Suspension setup
Before starting suspension setup, read the owners manual!
A tip, do your changes in suspension setup one by one, try to learn what effect each individual adjustment has on your bike and take notes!
Static sag without rider
Hold the bike upright on a flat surface. Independently lift front and rear until the suspension is fully extended, the value should be approximately:
Type Front sag Rear sag
Super Bike 20-30 mm 5-10 mm
Super Sport 20-30 mm 5-10 mm
RR 250 15-25 mm 0-5 mm
RR125 15-25 mm Just top out 0 mm
Note: An RR 125 cannot afford to loose the momentum that the sag would give in a straight line (loss of top speed). The static sag is adjusted by the spring preload. The procedure is the same for the front fork and rear shock.
Static sag with rider
The accepted manner to adjust the spring ratio is to measure how much stroke is used with the rider sitting on the bike in straight line position (behind fairing) after you have set the correct static sag without rider. Normally 1/3 of the full stroke is a good starting point for all machines. This is only a guide line for the right spring ratio. The final check must be done on the circuit.
Note: Ohlins racing shocks features a "top-out" spring to prevent the shock from extending to quickly, causing the rear wheel to jump under braking. The top-out spring also affects the negative sag, making it difficult to adjust the sag with the shock on the bike.
Your Ohlins shock is delivered with the correct spring preload set and we recommend you to use this value for the basic setup. Ride height should be adjusted with the ride height adjuster on the bike or on the shock.
Rebound damping:
*Rear suspension
Too much rebound damping can cause:
- The rear "jumps" on the bumps instead of following the surface.
- The rear "jitters" under braking.
- It holds the rear down with the result that the bike will understeer!
- It can cause overheating in the hydraulic system of the shock absorber and make it fade, in other words, it will loose damping when hot.
Too little rebound damping can cause:
- The rear "tops out"
General guideline
The general guideline in road racing is that the suspension has to support the tires to create the best possible grip. For this reason suspension plays it's most important role in corners, chicanes, acceleration and braking. In the straight line the suspension works satisfactory if it can absorb the bumps without causing instability.
Suspension stroke
A road race bike should normally not use its full suspension stroke, although on some circuit one or two big bumps or hollows can cause the suspension to bottom. Also landing of front wheel after wheelies can cause excessive use of the front fork stroke. If suspension bottoms in big bump or hollow, it should not automatically mean that the suspension should be set harder. However, if suspension bottoms at the place were the maximum grip is essential the tire cannot create the best traction, because it also has to perform as spring. Adjusting the setting is necessary. During every riding session the suspension stroke should be carefully checked. When tire grip and lap times improve, the suspension has a harder job. So, setting must be set harder. On the opposite, when it starts raining tire grip and lap times go down, in that case a softer setting should be applied.
Suspension setup
Before starting suspension setup, read the owners manual!
A tip, do your changes in suspension setup one by one, try to learn what effect each individual adjustment has on your bike and take notes!
Static sag without rider
Hold the bike upright on a flat surface. Independently lift front and rear until the suspension is fully extended, the value should be approximately:
Type Front sag Rear sag
Super Bike 20-30 mm 5-10 mm
Super Sport 20-30 mm 5-10 mm
RR 250 15-25 mm 0-5 mm
RR125 15-25 mm Just top out 0 mm
Note: An RR 125 cannot afford to loose the momentum that the sag would give in a straight line (loss of top speed). The static sag is adjusted by the spring preload. The procedure is the same for the front fork and rear shock.
Static sag with rider
The accepted manner to adjust the spring ratio is to measure how much stroke is used with the rider sitting on the bike in straight line position (behind fairing) after you have set the correct static sag without rider. Normally 1/3 of the full stroke is a good starting point for all machines. This is only a guide line for the right spring ratio. The final check must be done on the circuit.
Note: Ohlins racing shocks features a "top-out" spring to prevent the shock from extending to quickly, causing the rear wheel to jump under braking. The top-out spring also affects the negative sag, making it difficult to adjust the sag with the shock on the bike.
Your Ohlins shock is delivered with the correct spring preload set and we recommend you to use this value for the basic setup. Ride height should be adjusted with the ride height adjuster on the bike or on the shock.
Rebound damping:
*Rear suspension
Too much rebound damping can cause:
- The rear "jumps" on the bumps instead of following the surface.
- The rear "jitters" under braking.
- It holds the rear down with the result that the bike will understeer!
- It can cause overheating in the hydraulic system of the shock absorber and make it fade, in other words, it will loose damping when hot.
Too little rebound damping can cause:
- The rear "tops out"
#10
02-22-2008, 09:28 AM
RE: Track bike almost complete. any input?
good to hear you're taking agressive riding to the track now...
you sure all your parts match your weight?
i would've invested in track time first then see what i needed to change, etc.
how much do you weigh?
rearsets, etc...shouldn't be at the top of the list because with proper positioning on an RR you shouldn't be scraping them.
i would gotten the tires and SS lines in front only, pull off the stupid feelers...then head for tracktime.
be careful...6 months experience, SS lines in the rear, hard riding = recipe for disaster.
the suspension stuff posted is very informative, but if you don't have any exprience with suspensions, i'd let someone like gpsuspension or pps do it. most go through courses for this stuff...so even a wel written informative post can't compare with that and experience.
T
you sure all your parts match your weight?
i would've invested in track time first then see what i needed to change, etc.
how much do you weigh?
rearsets, etc...shouldn't be at the top of the list because with proper positioning on an RR you shouldn't be scraping them.
i would gotten the tires and SS lines in front only, pull off the stupid feelers...then head for tracktime.
be careful...6 months experience, SS lines in the rear, hard riding = recipe for disaster.
the suspension stuff posted is very informative, but if you don't have any exprience with suspensions, i'd let someone like gpsuspension or pps do it. most go through courses for this stuff...so even a wel written informative post can't compare with that and experience.
T