Looks like the CCT will sort it then. - good news.

Just some caution - when you remove the old tensioner - compare it carefully to the new one.
Make sure the TIP is still on the old one.

If not you will need to fish it out of the cam chain housing by removing the timing hole cap in the right hand crank case.

Whilst you are in the right side crank case - have a quick look with a torch and see that the chain slider is still in position.

Not trying to worry you - just suggesting some basic FREE checks after the sudden noise.
Normally they gradually get louder.

EDIT - DO NOT REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE NEW TENSIONER UNTIL IT IS FULLY INSTALLED

 

FOGeologist - I have a camera, and will give it a go documenting stuff!

Dean0 - thanks, will compare them. I do love a bit of fishing...

If I need to remove the timing hole cap, do I need to drain the oil first?
Is it easy enough to see if the chain slider's in position?

I think the two things I've seen most whilst reading up on CCT's is the APE/OEM debate (I went for OEM) and the 'do not remove the key' vs the 'prime it with oil first'. My manual says it's a hydraulic one, most of the right ups say spring powered... I guess I wait til it arrives and make a judgement call? I can always wind it back in and reinsert the key right?

 

(also - if I remove the timing hole cover, should I get a new 0-ring to replace the seal?

 

I didn't bother - the old one was still in one piece - just put a little rubber grease on the old one and re-used it.

 

Leave bike on side stand - no oil issue then. ( on a side note - you can also change the clutch with the bike on the side stand and not drop the oil )

Should be obvious - it will have dropped to the bottom of the cam chain housing if it has come out of position.

 

One more bit of advice.

STICK THE NEW GASKET ON TO THE NEW TENSIONER WITH A LITTLE GREASE

If you don't you will learn all sorts of new swear words as you try to fish the gasket out from wherever it falls - haha

 

You shouldn't have to. I reused mine after checking the valve clearances

 

Thanks for all the tips - especially this one:

This sounds exactly like most of my first time repair jobs!

Still waiting on the part - crossing my fingers it arrives tomorrow or saturday morning, looks like we might actually have a good riding weather weekend for once!

 

Hi, not been on here for ages, but i used to have a '95 F3 myself, replaced my CCT with a Debben manual tensioner after a sound rather like shaking a can of ball bearings starting!

Easy to change too, hope the parts arrive soon, good luck with it

 

All fixed, thanks guys!

Quick walkthrough of what I did below - My battery was low so didn't video the whole thing, but took a couple of pictures.


How to replace a CCT and do an oil change if you're an amateur:

Remove right hand fairings (rear side fairing, access cover + lower front fairing). Lose some of the bolts and spend ten minutes hunting for them.



Undo Cap bolt (Red circle). In my case no point winding the shaft in, because there is no pressure pushing it out whatsoever.

For access, need to remove cable tidy (yellow) with a tiny flat head screwdriver in behind it, and undo the clutch cable (orange) 2 bolts hold this on, and the lower one was bloody stuck, just about stripped it trying to get it out. Eventually managed, disconnect cable, finally remove two bolts (green) holding on CCT with an allen key (helpfully the same size as the fairing bolts!).
Give the CCT a quick tap with the butt of a screwdriver and then pull it out.

Step back and admire your handywork...




Compare old and new:



Nothing missing from the tip, Phew!


Take the new CCT, soak it in oil until the bubbles stop. Take it out, stick the gasket on, bang it in the whole, bolt up all the bolts re-attach clutch, cross fingers, start engine!


All in all, a 30 minute job. Easy!



Up next, oil filter (didn't take any pics).

Best advice I got - 'you WILL need a chain wrench'. I did, and even that was barely enough!

Run the engine for 5/10 mins to warm the oil.

Stick a basin underneath. Take off the oil filler cap, then undo the sump plug bolt. Watch it drop straight in the pan of oil. Leave it, as replacing with a magnetic plug anyway. Whilst that's draining - make sure your basin is carefully positioned, and wrap a chain wrench round the filter. Spend quite a while looking at it from different angles whilst repeating 'lefty loosey, righty tighty' and trying to figure out which way you should be turning it.
Eventually, chain wrench starts to actually cut oil filter in half while still making no progress. Move chain further up the filter and try again. See the first tiny rotation of the filter. Whoop with joy.
Easy from here, unscrew filter, drain it all out, wipe clean, new filter (smear the rubber ring with some oil), screw in the new sump plug. (congratulate yourself on the day you decided to buy a torque wrench), fill her up with 3.7 litres - run the engine for 2-3 minutes, check oil level (mind starting to go from hunger at this pojnt - need to re-check and confirm that you don't screw in the cap to check the oil level.) Top up as necessary, screw in cap, fairings on and I'm done.

This one took me about an hour, most of that was spent wrestling with the old oil filter.