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Strip paint? (How do I)

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Old 08-12-2009, 08:42 PM
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Question Strip paint? (How do I)

I've searched and the results are unclear. I need a straightforward answer on how to get this crappy rattlecan paint off my ride.

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This is what I'm getting with the old fashioned, unpowered 220 grit dry sandpaper. Not only will I be here forever but it is highly ineffective. It's scuffing the paint real good. But I fear I need to remove it down to the bare plastic completely

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You can see bare plastic in places from the bad paintjob. So might as well start fresh.

What product to use to remove the paint? How do I use it? I've got 2 weeks to invest in this project. So help me get started.
 
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Old 08-12-2009, 11:04 PM
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A D/A would help. Dual Action sander with some 220 then 400 to smooth it out. Then go over it with 400 wet by hand then with a grey (ultra fine) scrubby pad. And use an adhesion promoter when you paint.
 

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Old 08-13-2009, 05:50 PM
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It (aircraft stripper) will turn your fairings into a big glob of mewww. And when you sand, try NOT to breathe that sh*t in.
 
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Old 08-13-2009, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by skoobydoobie
It (aircraft stripper) will turn your fairings into a big glob of mewww. And when you sand, try NOT to breathe that sh*t in.
Part of the reason I stopped with the sanding. Today is payday and I'm gonna grab a DA, 3hp compressor, detail gun and a respirator
 
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Old 08-13-2009, 10:43 PM
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Default removeing rattle can paint

try soaking old rags in brake fluid. cover part for a couple hrs. then wipe off. might want to try a test spot first
 
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Old 08-14-2009, 08:10 PM
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dont do that. Dont ever put any harsh chemicals on your fairings. Chances are if it eats paint, it'll eat abs too. But you got the idea. Make sure tha compressor has enough CFMs to opperate the gun. psi is not as important, most compressors push at least 90 psi. Take pics, and if you like your work post up a "how to"
 
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Old 08-15-2009, 10:31 PM
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Don't use chemicals. And make sure if you use a DA to strip it, you prime it with a good primer, and wet-sand the primer with a guide coat. Otherwise your end product will be pitted, and the da marks will show. Trust me on this one...don't cut the corners.

I would have wet sanded with 300 depending on the surface, and then scotchbrighted to make sure I had all corners roughed up. Make for DAMN sure your corners are rough, or you'll have lift. Good luck!
 
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Old 08-16-2009, 07:48 AM
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I second what shaver said. If you use the DA make sure you hand sand out the marks that it leaves when you prime it. And before you prime it the scotchbrite pads will be your friend because they get into corners and on edges really well which is important.
 
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Old 08-16-2009, 08:05 AM
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Stopped by Home Depot. Picked up an electric random orbit detail sander with corner attachment.

Tried it out with a 180 grit pad
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Definately much better. That was with less than a min work. Stopped because I need a dust mask (have a respirator for when I'm ready to paint but its overkill for sanding). I'm using the engine cover as my test piece. It's the least expensive to replace if I damage it, small enough not to waste materials and lots of curves / corners to make sure I get full coverage.
 


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