Guys. Im very stupid. My CCT was making noise so i looked up how to fix it. there is a $1.50 fix that calls to replace the middle long screw. http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/hel...ml#post3369238

well im guessing my CCT is different cuz it had no central bolt. everything was in a housing. anywyas, I didnt find that out until i had already taken the CCT out. at this point i figured i'll just buy a new one so i decide the put the CCT back in.

for some reason it would not go back into place. it would leave about a 1 inch gap. i had to force it back in by screwing it back in. i turned the F3 back on and it sounded like utter ****. also the CCT would tremble. it was obviosly being forced by the piston. i didnt know what to do so i took the CCT back off again. this time i kept it to where it made contact with the piston but did not force it down. now it idles normallly but when i apply gas it sounds like utter **** once more. i decide to stop turning it on at this point. this is how it looks now. notice the gap.


this is how it is right now. i dont know what to do. If i have done permanent engine damage i will never forgive myself. I had to save up for my F3 with my own hard earned money and im a broke college student. i love her so much.

I am praying that since it still turns on fine that i can just get a new CCT and everything will be good again but i am scared. someone please help me.

 

i cant live life knowing i hurt her =[

 

you should probably be ok with a new CCT. unless your timing jumped a tooth, which I doubt you did cause it still starts ok and runs from your description. get the APE manual CCT and you'll be fine.

 

thank you so much for replying you have no idea how relieved i am. i want to hug and kiss you. yes it does turn on and idle fine just sounds weird when gas is given.

is there anywhere in a store i can purchase the APE manual? i cant go through christmas waiting for the order to arrive if i order it online. my head will explode.

 

You need to retract the tensioner. You are trying to reinstall the tensioner with it fully extended. You can retract it with a little key by screwing it in which retracts the tensioner. I can email you a picture of what the key looks like if you are interested.

 

where do i buy this key? where do i put the key? after i retract it i can just put it in and it'll go in with no resistence and then reset itself?

 

Forget the Manual CCTLs...they are a band aid for those who don't know how to fix or the theory behind thethe auto CCTL honda gives you. You might be able to get the "key" from honda, but I made mine out of a feeler gauge...

Check out this post I put up.... you might want to start on page 2, that is where the BS stops flying and another highly reguarded member starts adding his two cents with helpful information.

https://cbrforum.com/m_502781/tm.htm

I sold my 4i, but I never had a problem from the auto CCTL after I repaired mine...

 

Guys, this is what i do not understand. The rod is supposed to lightly touch the piston. the piston is constantly rotating when the engine is on.

If this is the case, doesnt that mean the length of the rod is always changing? so if i set the CCT while the piston is at its farthest distance, when i turn the engine on the piston will rotate closer and the distance will be less then the distance that the CCT was already set at.

for the key can i just use a little screwdriver? also how do u remove the cover for the key? just screw it off like the 8mm bolts?

 

??? I don't understand what you are saying, and yes you COULD use a little screw driver, butI don't know how much room you have to work with on an F3. My F4i was TIGHT and I needed the key because I could turn the lifter(is that what you are calling the piston?)back in and then "lock" the key in place to keep the lifter from extending while I installed the CCTL which was "hidden" behind the framerail and I neededto use a 9inch1/4" extention withauniversal (swivel) socket on the end.

The CCTL works by a spring driven screw. If you have your old one, take itapart and look at it. It is SO basic in design it is not even funny.The screw, because it always has spring tension on it,istrying to makethe screw turn. The spring will always be trying to extend the lifter...it will NOT let the lifter back in once it moves out as you discovered when you went to put your CCTL. Think about it,if the CCTL works like a screw,and ifyou tried to push on a screw that was halfway screwed into something, it would notjust start goingin unless you turned it.So no, the CCTL height is not always changing in and out, it ONLY moves out to take up for wear in the chain and CCT when needed. Get it?

 

alright, theres alot more room on the F3. so i keep the spring retracted by holding the screwdriver in place. then i screw in the 2 8mm bolts with the spring STILL retracted right? when do i let go of the screwdriver and let it spring into place?