Hopefully some of you guys who are much brighter than I am can shed some light on my problem. I replaced my oem brake lines (front only) on my 1997 600f3. I got the lines connected and torqued to spec. The problem started with bleeding the lines. I read some old threads about bleeding brake lines; but the hints did not seem to be effective. Here is what I have done.

1. attached clear hose to bleeder valve on caliper (one caliper at a time).
2. pumped lever several time (10-12) and held at bar.
3. opened the bleeder valve waited for bubbles and fluid and then closed valve before releasing brake lever.
4. repeated many, many times.
5. Loosened the banjo bolt at the master cylinder reservoir to eliminate any air lock at the master cylinder.
6. continued at the caliper with more fluid and bubbles.
7. repeated these steps many times and still don't get any pressure at all at the lever.

The calipers are not closing at all because I can push the bike with the front brake at the bars.

Are there any vacuum pumps that I can buy that might help get fluid in the lines? Any help is appreciated.

 

bleed it more, and keep your fluid full. do not loosen the banjo bolt, that lets air in the system. try bleeding each caliper alternating with pumps of the lever. it takes a lot of bleeding to get it all out. the master and lines push very little fluid each time.

demon

 

Demons been around the block, so you can count on everything he's said.

A few insights, from me...

Submerge the end of the hose into the fluid in your waste-collector/jar. That will
prevent air being sucked back in, when you let off the brake lever. You should close
the valve before letting off the lever (as you noted), but it's easy to oops.

If you have loosened the banjo bolts for ANY reason (however momentary),
you should replace the crush-rings (washers). They are designed to be tightened
to a specific turque ONCE. They squash and then, are case-hardended by the force
exerted. They won't create a reliable seal, twice. They might not weep fluid,
but they can allow air into the system.

Sometimes it helps to walk away for a day and let the air float to the top of the system.

I have heard of folks using a syringe and injecting the fluid at the caliper.
This method pushes the air ahead of it, instead of the fluid trying to displace the air.
I haven't tried it yet, but will on my next complete flush. That'll be awhile though,
since I only do a complete flush every other year.

My personal tried and true, has been a vacume pump from the caliper valve.
You just have to be sure not to let the fluid run low, at the MC.

Hope this helps, Ern

 

Thanks for the insights guys. I think that I might try the syringe method. I had read somewhere that that works. I suppose that my experience has been in bleeding systems that were not completely empty. Now that I think about it, the piston in the master cylinder can't be all that large. I guess it really only displaces a very small amount of fluid each bleed.

Should I stay on one caliper until I get pressure, or does it help to switch between left and right calipers. Thanks.

 

A big thanks to everyone who posted in response to my pitiful whimpers for help. I actually went to Harbor Freight and bought a vacuum pump for bleeding brakes. It was advertised as "all models all makes". How can you go wrong? THat was a wonderful tip. After sucking out what seemed like a lot of fluid, several ounces, I changed over to the old clear tube and jar method. THe combination of the two techniques put resistance in the lever almost immediately. I also changed all of the crush washers (got them from the stealership for three Bucks a pop!). I probably could have bought them for about a nickel a piece at a hardware store; but by this point I wanted it to be banjo bolt specific. So I went to dealer and paid. Lesson learned. Don't torque anything until you are sure that all is in place. Then, don't undo the bolts unless you are prepared to replace the washers.

Anyway, now I have very responsive brakes that do actually feel better than the old rubber lines. (I know it is not actually rubber tubing; but the steel feels better). I took pictures of everything I did. I'm thinking of doing a write up for the How to section. I could call it "Moron changes brake lines and lives" or something like that. Again, thank you all. I would still be pulling my hair out if it were not for this forum.

Erich

 

Yay! Glad it worked out for you.

I wouldn't call the moron-squad, though...after all, you did it!

Just because we, sometimes, sound "all-knowing", we have been in your shoes
and done it for the first time, too. The important thing, is having a first time.

Grats, Ern

 

What I usually do is open the bleeder valve farthest from the master cylinder and wait until I get fluid running out. Then the same method with the other cylinder. Then bleed as usual starting with the one farthest from the master. Works well for me.