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petroleum vs synthetic motorcycle oils

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  #11  
Old 02-07-2013, 10:19 AM
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Rotella t6 is great stuff. It it JASO-MA certified for wet clutches. Don't use any oil that does have this certification.

Baron, if synthetic is too expensive they make semi synthetic and a conventional oil, which is also JASO-MA, that are less money. Don't use mineral oil in your bike.
 
  #12  
Old 02-08-2013, 07:19 PM
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yes Baron, sometimes non synthetic regular Penzoil, Shell, Quaker State etc is referred to as Mineral oil. theres also a clear mineral oil used for medical stuff i think Demon was referring to, but im sure u didnt use that lol
 

Last edited by mjp94cbr100f; 02-09-2013 at 01:38 AM.
  #13  
Old 02-08-2013, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mjp94cbr100f
yes Baron, ometimes non synthetic regular Penzoil, Shell, Quaker State etc is referred to as Mineral oil. theres also a mineral oil used for medical stuff but im sure u didnt use that lol
Yep. It's referred to as "mineral oil" quite often, actually.

And while synthetics are better, there's nothing wrong with regular oil at all. I wouldn't use some $1.50/qt stuff from the dollar store, though.
 
  #14  
Old 02-26-2013, 05:42 PM
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5w just means that the oil is thinner than 10w when its cold. this is good for cold starts, because better flow offers better coverage, which is better protection in theory.
 
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by mnguyen84
5w just means that the oil is thinner than 10w when its cold. this is good for cold starts, because better flow offers better coverage, which is better protection in theory.
It also means a lot more then that as far as some "additives" that are added. Everyone thinks that higher zinc and phosphorus is better. In most cases it is not. What most dont know is that a high zinc count can and if over 1300ppm will start to corrode the metals in the engine. I believe the perfect zone for a car is 1100-1200ppm. But even levels this high are not needed. Most Motorcycle oils only have 300-500ppm max. but that was a few years ago and that was Honda brand oil. I have used amsoil and i have used honda brand oil. I have also read quite a bit on both and Honda dino oil has the same "additives" as the amsoil, it posted the same scores in the cold pour tests and wear tests. Honda oil was also only off by a few ppm on the break down test.

Sorry for my rant but it does help to do your homework. I have used T6 oil but my shifts are better and firmer with the honda oil on the track. On the street there wasnt too much of a differeance. For those that are sayiong maybe it was just a good track day i have been to many track days at or within a few degrees of each other, and there was a differance. I also dont recommend running a kevlar clutch with T6 or any type of syn oils.

this is just my .02
 
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by demon87

Sorry for my rant but it does help to do your homework. I have used T6 oil but my shifts are better and firmer with the honda oil on the track. On the street there wasnt too much of a differeance. For those that are sayiong maybe it was just a good track day i have been to many track days at or within a few degrees of each other, and there was a differance. I also dont recommend running a kevlar clutch with T6 or any type of syn oils.

this is just my .02
Odd, as when I switched from the Rotella T6 10w40 (that the seller had in there) to 20w50 Amsoil in my 954, shifting stayed pretty much the same but I noticed that (at least from 3500-8500) it spooled up noticeably quicker and easier; this is with thicker oil, mind you. I also lost only about 2mpg by going to the 20w50 weight.
I'm going to have to stick with Amsoil. Plus, knowing a dealer who can get quarts for you at wholesale cost doesn't hurt either.
 
  #17  
Old 02-27-2013, 02:33 PM
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i just purchased a gal. of Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic for my car and i see there isnt any JASO-MA certification listed, but its full of API C ratings for diesels and SM. this was the first bottle taken off a new skid in the backroom so im guessing they changed the formula? or i have diff oil than the JASO-MA cert. idk, but i didnt get it for the bike anyway. wondering if anyone else ran into that yet. i remember someone saying dont use SM in bikes because of the zinc and phosphate additives had been removed or lowered.
synthetic 5w40 does sound like a great formula for the seasonal Chicago area in my car tho
nevermind. this oil says diesel. idk what i got. its the only avail Shell Rotella Synthetic at WM. $21.36gal
im using only Amsoil 10w40 in my bike.
 

Last edited by mjp94cbr100f; 02-27-2013 at 09:17 PM.
  #18  
Old 02-27-2013, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Sportbike_Mike
Odd, as when I switched from the Rotella T6 10w40 (that the seller had in there) to 20w50 Amsoil in my 954, shifting stayed pretty much the same but I noticed that (at least from 3500-8500) it spooled up noticeably quicker and easier; this is with thicker oil, mind you. I also lost only about 2mpg by going to the 20w50 weight.
I'm going to have to stick with Amsoil. Plus, knowing a dealer who can get quarts for you at wholesale cost doesn't hurt either.
Why not use 10w40 Amsoil?
 
  #19  
Old 02-27-2013, 05:38 PM
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how does one do his/her homework? google stuff.. and to on the website of amsoil and shell and read about how their product is better becuz they use good additives vs other company that bad additives. or go to some guy/girl's personal website where they tell us wonderful stories about what is good or bad about zinic blah blah vs compound love potion #5 and look at pictures of dirty pistons?

i'm glad everyone is reading and learning stuff. But people need to also recognize that there's a lot of gray in the information presented because there is no way to confirm it. you can only take it as faith. and i have no clue why people are now using the word "additive" as if it is a bad word. ... that's my 2 cent!

Originally Posted by demon87
.
Sorry for my rant but it does help to do your homework.
 
  #20  
Old 02-27-2013, 05:46 PM
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I hate oil discussions. They should be forbidden.
 


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