Hello,

I would really like to paint several of the "silver" parts on the frame of my Red CBR600F4i (heel guards, passenger pegs, engine, etc..) black in order to go for a clean look. Here is a good example: http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...ttn/f4i020.jpg. Has anyone else gone this route?

I would like to do this myself in order to save the money of having them powdercoated and was wondering if anyone had any good tips on painting metal parts. I checked the How-To section but there is only tips on painting body panels.

I would imagine some high-temp engine spraypaint would work well although I don't know how durable that stuff is.

 

wow...you got the right person in me....i am on a quest to blackening and/or get rid of all that is silver on my bike...hahaha.....

i will say, painting heel guards, will likely come off....they just take way to much abuse...MAYBE if you used an etching primer first then painted, then cleared....it might stand up....but most people i have seen that have painted heel guards have them chip at some point...and honestly, once you go all "black"...little chips will drive you nuts!

as far as pegs, i would say the same however, if you aren't riding passengers much, i am sure it would stand up pretty good....

personally...if you can, i would say PC them...i know it's a little more, but it is VERY durable...i personally have had

pegs
rearsets
chainguard
heel guards
calipers
rims
engine cover
stator cover
exhaust

all PC'd and it's standing up great.....however, those pieces that i painted...not so much...

i haven't done my engine...YET...but that i will use high temp stuff because it's not really going to be having any scuffing done to it...the biggest concern is that if pieces are going to be used, meaning constantly stepped on, grabbed, etc....paint doesn't like to hold up well unless, like i said, MAYBE you use an etching primer, paint AND clear to really seal it up well...just seems like paint LOVES to chip off metal unless protected VERY well....

also, high-temp would only be needed on say the exhaust and engine, everywhere else, enamel will be fine...

i have a red F4i too....here's a few pics as i am still working on my blacking out of the bike...

sorry, it's the only picture i have remotely showing the blacked out sides...LOL...which tells me i need more pictures...haha

 

Hey,

Your bike looks awesome - haha, funny how we have the exact same bike and I had the exactsame mods in mind. Really enjoyed your bike diary, and your writeupswill be helpful when Istart doing these same mods. My fairings were repainted so they are a completely red no decals whatsoever.

Anyways back to the topic: How much did it cost you to get all those items PC'd?

 

it's funny, i have been so bad with writeups lately...

i have a lot more stuff that i haven't even added up there, peg lights, new WS, chain/sprocket, new bolts, new triple, etc....

paint is coming next winter, i am have a custom red/black abstract honda paint job...should be sweet...just can't do it now as riding season is upon us...

as for the PC...ranges really....if you can go local, that's the best....but TRGcoating.com here on the forum is good, Tripage.com is good....

i think i have spent at least a few hundred on ALL my PCing....but that rims alone were $150

but you could probably do pegs, rearsets, heels, chain, for between $60-75

PM me if you want MY numbers....

 

also, rear shock linkage will be done next winter as well...that big glaring unfinished metal is driving me nuts...LOL

 

Find the paint called P.O.R 51 i believe its called they use it mostly for painting car and truck frames when it hardens you can't even chip it by hitting it with a hammer.

 

Hi Paco,

ffingers, get on those write ups, so I know what I'm doing! haha

Paco, Interesting suggestion I believe you mean this stuff: http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=BC&dept=4

The only problem I have with that is that it is brush on - I can tell its thick stuff and I'm sure there will be brush strokes left in the finish.. I am looking for a nice smooth finish.

 

Actually, I have used POR-15 as well as their hardnose paints. POR will not leave brush strokes, it thins out dries smooth even with brushing. However...POR is nasty stuff...just meaning it's potent and a pain to deal with. POR stands for Paint Over Rust...meaning it's primarily for stopping the formation of rust. It is really meant for painting. It's meant for things you don't see like undercarriages, wheel wells, etc. I wouldn't use it on things you see like guards and stuff. Plus i BELIEVE it doesn't have a UV protectanct in it meaning it will fade with time.

You can try the hardnose paint which is a paint with a hardener and has a UV protectant but I wasn't happy with the results. Also, the whole "you can hit it with a hammer" thing is necessarily true. You can still chip POR, it's hard, but you can. Plus POR is only as good as the surface prep. If the surface prep isn't great, it will still flake off like regular paint.

Bottom line, for high traffic pieces, powder is the best way to go. If it's not going to be abused....or touched at all, meaning anything up in the cockpit area or things like that, paint is fine. Hunks of metal will be best served with some good PC. I am not saying painting is bad as many have done it, just expect you WILL have to touch it up from time to time. My PC likely won't have to be as it will be resistant to chipping and stones and the like and will maintain it's glossy finish.

That's just my .02 though!

And i will work on the writeups...

 

Hello again. Oops i meant por 15. and yes it is sprayable but you can only use 25-35 psi.

 

Fox bought a do it yourself powdercoat kit and his stuff turned out NICE