oil- why not synthetic?
#1
oil- why not synthetic?
i was just reading that you shouldn't use sythetic oil the first couple of times changing the oil on a new bike, why is that?
Also, do you guys always changes the washer on the drain plug?
and last one, haha, what's the difference between a sump plug and a drain plug?
Thanks!
Also, do you guys always changes the washer on the drain plug?
and last one, haha, what's the difference between a sump plug and a drain plug?
Thanks!
#2
You shouldnt use synthetic oil for the first bit on your bike as it is to slippery and the seals won't seat properly I believe.
I change my washer everytime as it is a compression washer so to get the best seal it is good to change but not absolutely necessary.
And your 3rd question I don't know.
I change my washer everytime as it is a compression washer so to get the best seal it is good to change but not absolutely necessary.
And your 3rd question I don't know.
#3
i was just reading that you shouldn't use sythetic oil the first couple of times changing the oil on a new bike, why is that?
No idea. Some manufacturers put synth in from new. Where did you hear that?
Also, do you guys always changes the washer on the drain plug?
No. Never
and last one, haha, what's the difference between a sump plug and a drain plug?
Nothing. Just different words.
Thanks!
No idea. Some manufacturers put synth in from new. Where did you hear that?
Also, do you guys always changes the washer on the drain plug?
No. Never
and last one, haha, what's the difference between a sump plug and a drain plug?
Nothing. Just different words.
Thanks!
#4
You should run a non-synthetic motorcycle oil for the first couple thousand miles on a BRAND NEW bike. Not just new to you, newly manufactured... this is to allow the engine parts to wear in and seat properly with each other. Engines are made with very small allowances in them, the engine needs heat in order for things to break in. With synthetic oils, the engine parts just slide around and can leave leaks in the valves and piston rings etc.
I use aluminium crush washers, so I change it every time. I do it in an attempt to avoid oil drips inside my fairings. Honestly if you use a nylon washer, you don't need to replace it very often and it will probably leak very little if at all.
The plug names are for the same part.
I use aluminium crush washers, so I change it every time. I do it in an attempt to avoid oil drips inside my fairings. Honestly if you use a nylon washer, you don't need to replace it very often and it will probably leak very little if at all.
The plug names are for the same part.
#5
#7
Nylon washer? Really?
I've never heard of that. Doesn't sound like a good idea to me. A sump bolt needs to be done up pretty tight to reduce the chances of it ever coming out. A nylon washer IMO would be likely to soften when the engine gets hot allowing the bolt some freedom to vibrate loose. You wouldn't know necessarily until it falls out and leaves you with a seized up engine.
I bet there isn't a bike shop that would sanction the use of them for fear of being sued.
Compression washer- Copper/Aluminium/Malleable metal
Crush washer- Usually only found under spark plugs although it could be argued that exhaust seals are also crush washers. A hollow formed washer. Torque sensitive. Generally single use only although we all know that you can take a spark plug out and re fit it without problems.
Confusing isn't it!
I've never heard of that. Doesn't sound like a good idea to me. A sump bolt needs to be done up pretty tight to reduce the chances of it ever coming out. A nylon washer IMO would be likely to soften when the engine gets hot allowing the bolt some freedom to vibrate loose. You wouldn't know necessarily until it falls out and leaves you with a seized up engine.
I bet there isn't a bike shop that would sanction the use of them for fear of being sued.
Compression washer- Copper/Aluminium/Malleable metal
Crush washer- Usually only found under spark plugs although it could be argued that exhaust seals are also crush washers. A hollow formed washer. Torque sensitive. Generally single use only although we all know that you can take a spark plug out and re fit it without problems.
Confusing isn't it!
#8
#9
Nylon washer? Really?
They have a few benifits since they will compress. With the compression, the are putting that same force back into the head of the bolt which helps prevent the bolt from backing out. It also deforms slightly to the surface which creates a very good seal. Also, on an aluminum pan, its very easy for aluminum washers to mar the surface of the pan and eventually not seal very well. the nylon is softer than aluminum, so it won't damage the pan. Its by design to have the wear item easily replaceable. In this case, the washer being the item that wears.
Metal ones are fine and will last longer. Just make sure you choose a washer that is softer than the aluminum of the pan. I've also seen rubber seals with steel crush rings internally so they will seal and still be able to be torqued.
But, with as bad as it may be. I've never changed an oil washer unless I see that its cracked. But it would be cheap insurance and I probably should start.
Last edited by justasquid; 05-25-2011 at 04:35 PM.
#10
Myths about Synthetic Oil