noise under heavy braking
#1
#2
well what kind of noise and how loud? If youre just hearing the pads grab the rotors thats pretty normal for heavy braking. I wouldnt be too worried about a slight vibration either if thats all it is and all youre talking about is heavy braking. If they were loud and there was a vibration any time you used the brakes id be a little more concerned about a bent or warped rotor or something which you may want to check out anyway
#3
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A warped disc is something that you can feel through the bars & depending on how bad it its warped is relative to feel. But there are a few other things that can replicate that.
The brake pads have anti rattle clips, but can be a bit confusing to reinstall (if they fall out) when replacing the pads. So a lot of riders don't bother with them, so you get the noise.
Loose head bearing will also give the wobble though to the bars.
The brake pads have anti rattle clips, but can be a bit confusing to reinstall (if they fall out) when replacing the pads. So a lot of riders don't bother with them, so you get the noise.
Loose head bearing will also give the wobble though to the bars.
#5
well what kind of noise and how loud? If youre just hearing the pads grab the rotors thats pretty normal for heavy braking. I wouldnt be too worried about a slight vibration either if thats all it is and all youre talking about is heavy braking. If they were loud and there was a vibration any time you used the brakes id be a little more concerned about a bent or warped rotor or something which you may want to check out anyway
#6
I've experienced this as well, first time was at a trackday. I came into a tight right hand turn just after a straightaway, jumped on the front brakes hard and the whole front end began to what I describe as a loud chatter and vibration through the handlebars. I have inspected the brake pads and they are fine. I now believe it is my front rotor. How do I go about determining if the rotor is warped, and if it is can I resurface them like my car rotors or do I just need to buy new ones?
#7
I don't believe you can have them resurfaced. If they're not too out of spec maybe you could talk to a machine shop about it but I would feel better knowing there's a good straight rotor to clamp on to. Another thing to check which I fixed on my 929 is the pistons in the calipers sticking. I had two sticking and was causing one of the calipers to push the pads at an angle into the rotor. vibrated and didn't stop that well. I used c clamps to hold one piston while pumping the brake lever to see if the other one moved. Ended up taking them all out and cleaning them then replacing the brake fluid. Fixed the vibration and noise, now all I hear is the zing sound of the pads on the drilled rotors but stops on a dime.
#8
A 97? OK 1st check the break caliper mounting bolts where they are torqued in correctly, & when was the last time the break fluid was 100% bled & changed to brand new dot 4 & bled correctly? How many mm's are left on each pad & are they wearing correctly ( which means are they wearing rite angle flat, & are the pad's wearing the same amount on either side's) , & being a 97 & if the break calipers have only had pad's changed & that's all? they must at least get pulled off the mounts & put on worn old pads then apply breaks with the caliper off the mounts where the pistons are out a lot, then with some good old elbow grease & a tooth brush & soapy water clean the inner side's of the calipers & as well as the extended pistons where all the dirty break dust of some 20 plus are gone & now the pistons can go in & out with out built up break dust covering every thing, & new fluid, new pads, & if that isn't putting an end to the break shudder? Well it's break's over haul time where they all need pulling apart & new master cylinder kits need installing , & new caliper pistons, & seals will be needed too. Where really if you were to service the breaks every 10000k's & flush old to new Dot 4 with it? those breaks will work when needed, & you don't need a work shop to do this for you paying a heavy price, with a break bleed kit ($12 ), & a metric socket set or metric Allen key set, spare break pads (ebay- full set $28), & Dot 4 break fluid ($8), at least you will know the breaks are done rite. EG; I have a 2008 FZ6N, O;D 62000K's & the breaks are working excellent , they all wear the same, the fluid is changed & the inner caliper's & pistons far extended are cleaned every 10000k's, At 62000K's these break caliper pistons are still in excellent condition with only about 2 & a half hours care put to them every 10000 or so K's
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Frankie Hannon (06-14-2020)
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