how many miles can i expect from stock tires?... just purchased new 06 today... had a blast riding it home the 9 miles from the dealership... kept it under 6000rpm the whole way... read some posts concerning poor low and mid-range torque so was somewhat concerned ... but even under 4000 rpm it kept up with traffic easily...the owners manuel dosn't specify breakin rpms...so i figured keeping it in the 4-6000 range was a good guess...any info on the tires and general break-in info would be welcome. i love my new honda!

 

As for tires, try a search for it, it's been coverd a ton. Just go easy on them for a 100-150 miles, gradually adding lean angle until they are scrubbed in.

As for the engine, vary engine load and RPM for the first 600 miles. I personally dont have a problem running it to redline even in the first 600 miles, although your manual will tell you not to as will some other people on this board that do it by the book. I would imagine it says to stay below 6k for the first 600 miles or so, but it's not necessary. Dont beat the hell out of it, but dont baby it either. The most improtant thing for a new motor is to NOT let it get hot. Keep an eye on the chain, a new chain will stretch more often than a broken in chain. It will require more frequent adjustment. Then there is surely a 600 mile service, probably the most important of all services.

Good luck and enjoy.

 

thanks gixxereater...the ride home was 9 miles and i enjoyed every minute...this bike is smooth and comfortable...later when i get on it a little i'm sure i'll be even more impressed...the damn thing feels like it wants to rev to the moon...and that in-line purr is intoxicating...not insured till tomorrow so couldn't ride it like i wanted...first mod will probaly be slip-ons and then tires and then who knows...

 

Tires

Longevity of the tires depends GREATLY on the type of riding you do.
If you ride hard everywhere you go, you might see around 5000 mi.
If you ride reletively soft, you might see 8000mi. it really depends
helvilly on the riding you do and the temperatures the tires see, and
tire pressures play an important roll as well. so it depends.

Engine Break-In

Don't worry about it. Ride it like you would normally, except DON'T
bounce shifts off the Rev-Limiter. going any higher than 10,000 RPM
Is asking for trouble when you do it so early on. Please refrain from
doing so. The reason is because there are a TON of small metal
shavings from burrs formed durring fabrication. the oil that's in the
engine as is it sucks really really bad and the extra deposits don't help
lubrication. so don't do it.

Other Helpful Tid-Bits

Change Change Change your oil! Like i said earlier that oil in the crankcase
SUCKS. Change it out soon. Real soon. It's full of those engine deposits
I spoke of earlier. not good for moving parts with very small clearances.
I suggest a 100/400/1000 change interval. 100 miles is probably the most
CRITICAL. this will remove the nasty oil and all the crap in it and help flush
it out. Change the filter as well. I suggest using a Purolator Pure One PL14612
Filter as the Honda brand is made of inferior materials and costs entirely too
much. As for oil, I suggest GN4 for the entire flush. it's cheap and works
well. for the 400 mi change, you can elect to replace the filter or not. your
choice. I would. others wouldn't. whatever. Use the GN4 again and leave
it in until the 1000 mile mark. DEF. change the filter here. you can switch oils
here as well to whatever you want that is safe for motorcycles. You want
Synthetic? whatever floats your boat... hell you could have used it from the
word GO, but it's just too damn expensive to change so frequently. Personally,
I use Amsoil MCF 10w40 (don't use any other viscosity, thicker is not always better)
and a pureOne filter. others use MX4T, others still use Motul. it's not important
what oil you use, believe me. What's important is that you change it when it needs
replacement. you can use GN4 for the life of your bike and never have a problem,
but you'll be changing it much more often than you would say MX4T. Synthetics
just plain last longer. Their no better at protection than a fresh batch of GN4, but
over time their difference become blatantly obvious. most synthetics can go about
twice as long before a change is necessary. it's up to you. do what you feel is best.
no matter what though, CHANGE CHANGE CHANGE THE OIL!!!

 

thanks knightslugger...metal shavings!... my heart almost stopped...i love my new honda how dare they...what do you think about changing it almost immediately?...20 miles or so?...looking at the filter from the front it dosnt look like it should be too difficult to get off w/o taking off the fairing...but looks can be decieving...

 

Immediately? Couldn't hurt...

When you change the oil, take the right side fairings off. You'll make a friggin' mess if you don't. well, most people do, some people don't. I do it because it's EASY and clean. i hate clean-up. I'd rather not make a mess if it can be helped.

http://www.600rr.us/oil_change.html <----- Best instructions around. ultra easy. BTW, it's 3.1 qts for a oil change WITH FILTER. I'll tell you right now, the .1 qts isn't important. buy a filter and three quarts of oil and be on your way.

BTW, there are other things that you should check when you get to your 600/1000 mile mark like throttle cable adjustments, clutch cable adjustments, chain slack, and a general once over on the nuts and bolts. you can do these yourself, as most dealership wont take the time to do a torque check if you bring it in for service. buy the tools necessary (Combo wrenches, socket set and a click type torque wrench) and you'll be OK.



Did you happen to get the Owners manual and tool kit when you bought the bike? JSYK, the tool kit DOES NOT come with the bike as a complete kit. You get bits and pieces. I find this OUTRAGEOUS! If you didn't get the tool kit, go back to the dealership and DEMAND that you get one. same goes for the owners manuel. if you didn't get that, DEMAND IT. you bought a $9000 motorcycle, you better get $9000 service as well...

 

maybe because i only paid 8500 they omitted both the tools and the manual...b@#$%&ds...just kidding...i did ask for the manual tho...mainly for the break-in procedure...but the manual has nearly nothing to say about it...i read this 1 thread somewhere the guy uses aluminum foil to keep the oil from getting all over place...he dosn't take the fairings off and makes a sort of tray under the filter to catch the oil in...

 

Whatever's Clever i guess... if you've going to do something half-assed, you'll get something half-assed.

 

knightslugger...thanks for the 600rr site heads-up...looks like a great site with loads of pertinent info...even tho its geared mainly towards the 600rr i'm sure there's some sneaky f4i people in there...

 

150 miles for tires? hmmm...interesting...
it's acutally a bit more and less complicated than that...
say you go 150 miles...straight...and never turn...is the bike scrubbed in? no...
heat cycles to help scrub in? maybe...

i would just be careful scrubbing it in...until all that coating is gone...

as for me...i used a new set of diablos at the track...after 3 laps i got on it...i just increased my lean each time and careful on the throttle until the nice shiny armor all look was all gone, then i got on it...no problems.