Ok - so tonight I got around to installing my new chain - the old one was stretched so bad that the adjusters were all the way back in the swingarm when I bought the bike, and the chain was still too loose, so I cut a link out for the time being.

bike is geared 14/43 which is -1/+0 from stock gearing - some prev. owner did a 520 swap on it.

Tonight I installed a new Vortex steel 14T front sprocket, and a EK MVXZ chain - the rear sprocket is newer, and I was going to keep it if at all possible.

Here's what I ran into - 108 link chain - I didn't move the rear wheel from where the old 107 link chain was sitting in the swingarm.



If I try to take that much slack out - I'm going to be back at the end of the swingarm again aren't I?

I don't mind getting a new sprocket - the one on there does show a little wear, but should I go up a tooth or 2 to deal with the slack better, or should I order a replacement 43 and cut a link out of the chain?

I don't mind going up a tooth or so, little peppier off the line would be fine with me - but if so, will +2 be too much for the slack I have now?

 

From the looks of where the chain is now, it should tighten up with a small amount of movement from the axle. I'd bet your axle will be close to the middle of the adjustment slot with proper tension. Just remember you are suppose to have some slack. Im not sure what bike you have, so I dont know the specs, but most bikes are around an inch or so of slack. Just don't tighten it too far or the chain will stretch (faster than normal) and it puts a lot of tension on the output shaft.

Having said that, If you can see any wear at all on your rear sprocket, change it. Its never a good idea to mix used with new when it comes to chain and sprockets. It'd be like replacing your rotors, and throwing on your old pads, you just don't mix items that wear together as a set.

If you only a few thousand miles on the sprockets, and you can't detect any wear, then it may be ok to use it, but since you can see wear, I'd change it. And if you want the basic stock length again, going up to a 41 tooth may be a good idea. Just realize the it will add a little more bottom end to your bike, and make you run a little higher rpms at cruising speeds. My bike has a -1 +1, and my speedometer was off about 9 mph until I got the speedo healer. But, I can't tell what bike you have, so if your speedo works of the front tire, you have nothing to worry about.

also, a + 2 should theoretically work fine since you are down one in th front. It will just put the axle nearly all the way to the front of the slot.

 

Sorry - it's a F2 - so the speedo is driven off the front wheel - no need for a speedo healer. When you said 41 tooth - did you mean 44? 43 was stock on my bike.

I'm going to play with the tension tomorrow just to get it in spec. I echo your sentiment on replacing the rear sprocket - since I'm replacing everything else, why not - it's only about $30 anyway. It had less visible wear a thousand miles ago when I bought the bike - but the PO hadn't tightened the chain properly, perhaps when I did, it accelerated the wear a bit.

 

From the pics you have more than 1"-1 and 3/8th play(up and down at the bottom of the chain) so I would say too long. Cut it if you have to.

 

yeah, I did.. sorry about that.

Adding one more tooth to the back will get the bike basically back to stock axle location, since your down one in the front and up one in the rear. that one extra tooth will increase the entire diameter of the sprocket, which will tighten the chain up considerably.

But as I said earlier, I think even with your current setup, you will be able to get the proper chain adjustment and still have quite a bit of room for future tightening since your axle is currently all the way forward.

also, a new chain will not put the axle all the way forward even with a stock set up. It puts it close to the front of the swing arm slot, but its usually about a quarter of the way back. so your axle won't be too far from a stock set up. At least it looks like it anyway. If I were you, I'd adjust it to proper tension, snap another pic and repost so we can see where the axle ends up.

 

There's no way you'd be able to remove a link.

Just tighten up your axle. You'll be fine.

 

tightened the chain to specs, 1" of play, here's the before and after marks





I'm going to get a new rear sprocket, but with where my rear axle is now, would a 45 be too big?

Should I get a stock 43, or would a 44 pull everything back to near where it was in the "before" pic?

 

You should have no problems putting a 45 on there. A 44 will probably move it 2/3 of the way to where it was, and a 45 will probably move it a little closer to the front than what it was. but a 45 should be close to where you had it start with. I'd definately goe with the 45 if your looking for more bottom end. And since it won't mess up your speedo, all the more reason As long as you don't ride on the freeway too often, otherwise I'd just replace it with a stock one.

Also, maybe its just the pictures, but the sprocket looks really worn out to me. The gaps between the teeth where the roller goes should be near the same size as the roller of the chain. It looks like you could fit one and half rollers in those gaps, plus the teeth look very thin. But again, its hard to tell from just pictures.

 

I went w a steel 520 44tooth, put it on last night - the axle moved forward a hair - about 3/32".

Was gonna ride it today, but when I was putting the rear caliper back on I over torqued the bolt. I thought the manual said 35ft/lb for that bolt - I was incorrect, the magic # was 17ft/lb and apparently that bolt was good for about 28 before shearing.

Oh well - I needed a couple other things from servicehonda.com too - this finally made the shipping worthwhile.

 

I suggest new front n rear sprockets when doing a new chain. All 3 or nothing at all