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New Abandoned Bike

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  #21  
Old 08-02-2020, 11:59 AM
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Default Runs under its own power!

Ok, so for the first time in 10 years it runs under its own power!

Link to vid: https://photos.app.goo.gl/EWDzahy5S257bsw88


FYI, I am running a Kemso brand fuel pump from ebay. It's quiet and the install was no different than any other aside from the electrical plug being different. I replaced the filter with an off the shelf Wix filter. I cut the elbow off the old filter and added a section of hose...much cheaper. Runs friggin mint!


SBR
 
  #22  
Old 08-02-2020, 12:36 PM
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Congrats, man! I know that's got to feel good!
 
  #23  
Old 08-16-2020, 01:09 PM
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Better link to vid:



SBR
 
  #24  
Old 09-01-2020, 10:29 PM
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Really nice. Thanks for the progress pics.
 
  #25  
Old 10-22-2020, 04:34 PM
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Default A bit of progress

Here's some photos, I made a bit of progress on the CBR. Essentially I just cleaned everything up a bit more to make it easier to wrench on and make it easier to get through tech inspection. Anything unnecessary is gone and I'm currently adding everything I need. I re-covered the hideous seat with a cheap cover from ebay that was surprisingly good, I picked up a cheap undertail off ebay as well that also is passable and works well for the money. I installed a key switch eliminator from woodcraft and got rid of the miscellaneous unused wiring.

Some tracks require headlight and taillight for test n tune nights so I kept the right light as a hi beam so I can switch it off when not needed. I unfortunately could not make my VTR front rim work with the spacers I had so the CBR chrome rim went back on. It's not too bad though and you hardly notice it at a glance. The rear rim is off the VTR though and uses the same bearings, spacers, VTR hub and a 900rr 520 sprocket. The forks! Finally, I found a set of forks on ebay for 80$ that had bent tubes and good lowers. My old tubes were good so I swapped those out and replaced the seals and used 10w fluid. I lowered the rear 1,5" and left the front alone for now but I'll probably drop that an inch or so. Stock exhaust, stock airbox and stock everything else except for -1/-1 520 sprockets and "less than 0" oil and a pcv/pair mod. Other than that I'm running a single front brake setup with a stainless line and an oem rear brake setup.

Next on the list is a set of tires. I'm thinking about running 100 70/17 front and 160 60/17 rear to reduce rotating weight a bit more, but if anyone knows what the lightest (W) rated oem sizes are I'd gladly keep the factory size. Any good tire advice would be appreciated.

A lanyard kill switch is a requirement so I'll be adding that soon.

I hear fuel pressure regulators are a known issue on these...anyone know for sure?

I'd like a gas cap with a bigger opening, Vortex seems to make a nice one...anyone have thoughts otherwise?

Anyway, as far as I know there are 2 standing records for a CBR 600 worth trying to beat...an old one that was 170 or so and one from 2011 at Bonneville that was 205 or so. That might have been an RR but I'm not sure. Either way I'm gunning for a record at the Loring standing mile event next year, here's hoping.

SBR





 
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  #26  
Old 10-24-2020, 08:44 AM
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Haha, my garage is also dedicated to bikes in the summer also. Though I’ve never done anything as cool as this in mine. Today’s project is making room for the car, so I don’t have to clear off the windshields in the mornings anymore
 
  #27  
Old 11-15-2020, 10:02 AM
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A few steps closer:

So here we are, the final hour is fast approaching and I've made what I believe to be major progress. I changed the fuel pressure regulator with a new oem unit and that seems to have fixed the rough idle issue. The windshield is in place as well as all of the body panels, I just need to source all of the screws and get them snugged down. I managed to find some small LED lights that fit into the undertail holes and will fulfil the requirement for lights at test n tune nights. The rear brake is installed and it is from an RC51, the master is stock. The front brake setup is 90% as of now. I rebuilt the master which is also off an RC51 and installed the rotor/caliper with a Galfer stainless line. I added a remote reservoir which is actually off a rear master from an old F4 but does the job just fine. Safety wire is almost done with the exception of the left front pinch bolts and for the most part all safety issues have been addressed with the exception of the lanyard kill switch.

NO/NC safety switches. There are probably a dozen or so out there and it seems to be the case that either the manufacturer does not know the difference or they cant supply a diagram or the are just too damned expensive...or just too damned cheap. So I though for quite some time as to how I would make a lanyard kill switch if I were forced to do so and here's what I came up with:

On the CBR many people disconnect the tip sensor. I kind of like having it in my application so I left it alone but in reading about it, I realized that the circuit for the tip sensor is an ideal place to tap in a lanyard kill switch. When bypassing the tip sensor the green wire and the r/w wire are looped together. What I do is de-pin the green wire and loop it so that it must pass through the lanyard kill switch first before continuing to the tip sensor circuit. Now as for the lanyard kill switch itself...what you need is a break away switch that is durable and snug fitting, like a condom, but easy to remove if necessary...like a condom. I found two connectors that fit the criteria, one from New Zealand that actually is perfect but expensive and far away. The other is cheap, readily available, and close by. What is this mystery switch you speak of? It's a 12vdc panel mount charging socket and plug just like what is used on any laptop or similar device. What you do is wire the socket into the green wire from the tip sensor and on the plug end you simply loop the contacts and attach it to a lanyard, that's it. Plug it in and it works like a key switch, in fact, I think that it could make a very discreet anti theft device that very few people would notice. I'll add pics when I get a chance.

SBR




 
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  #28  
Old 11-17-2020, 05:14 PM
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Steering damper update:
I picked up a used ducati steering damper off ebay a while back for 30$ and on a whim I ordered a chinese ebay mounting kit for another 25$ I have to say that the ebay unit is surprisingly good and fits perfect. It's made for a 954 but fits the F4i like a glove. The only issue is that the duc damper is a few mm too wide in diameter to fit the clamp. However, later year 1098 dampers seem to have the clamp cast into the housing and I think that might make a better option. I'll post up if I go that route.





SBR
 
  #29  
Old 11-17-2020, 06:00 PM
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Hmmm... but why?

Do you get a lot of steering shake? Just wondering because the only time my steering has felt "wobbly" has been when my front tire pressure was too high and I was screaming down the highway...
 
  #30  
Old 11-17-2020, 06:17 PM
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can't you just use a regular boat kill switch? After all they are designed for the same purpose - https://www.boatoutfitters.com/unive...YaAgavEALw_wcB


 


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