Mounting Mesh
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Souf Cackilack
RE: Mounting Mesh
THE SKINNY ON MESH IN FAIRING DUCTS
I receive many questions about the material, shaping and mounting of mesh screen on fairing openings.
Materials:
Most home improvement warehouses sell an inexpensive gutter cover material made of expanded aluminum mesh. As mesh products go for vehicle applications, this material is probably a bit on the heavy side, and is a bit harder to form, but once formed will retain its shape much better. (For a DIY, it also makes for a cheap mod). Personally, I would recommend that you make sure the material is indeed made of aluminum before you buy. Depending on the quality and design desired, you might want to look into higher-end materials available from places like this. Or this. Or this.
Shaping:
Think ahead before cutting -- make sure the direction of the holes will be consistent on all areas and both sides of your vehicle. Use the natural curvature of the material when making your decisions. Some metal shears and some large, flat-nosed pliers are useful for shaping. First, remove the fairings from your ride. Clean a 1" area on the backside of the fairing around the openings, removing any adhesive, dirt, insulation, etc from the area. Use a large grit sandpaper or sanding disc to rough the plastic in this area. Take the material and overlap the opening from the backside of the fairing (with the outer side of the material facing out through the opening). Flatter openings require less work forming the mesh to best conform to the edges of the opening, but keep working with the material until it can fairly closely lay formed to the edges of the opening. Using a magic marker, mark a line approximately 1" larger than the opening in the fairing. Cut the mesh with a set of metal shears, and bend the edges using the flat-nosed pliers so that the edges of the mesh wrap around the edges of the fairing vent. These edges are where the mesh will be secured to the fairings, so take your time and do a good job. The objective is to put as little stress as possible on the adhesive after mounting, so a good fit is highly desireable.
Mounting:
I have seen all kinds of recommendations and applications as far what to stick this stuff on with. I'm sure there are several good solutions that will work with equal success. I have seen double-sided foam tape used not my personal choice). I have had fairly good success with a high-temp hot glue - I have not seen so much heat that a thorough job on a well-roughed surface won't last well. I have also seen and used various types of sealants, adhesives and epoxies. When selecting your product, make sure to look at the materials and temperature cycles it's recommended for, and the time it will take to dry or harden.
- For both ease of mounting and long-term adhesion, I recommend this method:
Use a high-temp glue gun first to tack down several spots on the mesh. The glue gun is the easiest to use and hardens pretty quick. For resistance to heat, I then use a 2-part, quick-hardening epoxy to cover the entire edges of the mesh. Make sure at all times that you get good coverage both in contact with the fairing plastic, and in covering the mesh as much as possible -- this will ensure a good lasting bond. You may also need to do it in sections to control any running/movement of the adhesive while it hardens.
I receive many questions about the material, shaping and mounting of mesh screen on fairing openings.
Materials:
Most home improvement warehouses sell an inexpensive gutter cover material made of expanded aluminum mesh. As mesh products go for vehicle applications, this material is probably a bit on the heavy side, and is a bit harder to form, but once formed will retain its shape much better. (For a DIY, it also makes for a cheap mod). Personally, I would recommend that you make sure the material is indeed made of aluminum before you buy. Depending on the quality and design desired, you might want to look into higher-end materials available from places like this. Or this. Or this.
Shaping:
Think ahead before cutting -- make sure the direction of the holes will be consistent on all areas and both sides of your vehicle. Use the natural curvature of the material when making your decisions. Some metal shears and some large, flat-nosed pliers are useful for shaping. First, remove the fairings from your ride. Clean a 1" area on the backside of the fairing around the openings, removing any adhesive, dirt, insulation, etc from the area. Use a large grit sandpaper or sanding disc to rough the plastic in this area. Take the material and overlap the opening from the backside of the fairing (with the outer side of the material facing out through the opening). Flatter openings require less work forming the mesh to best conform to the edges of the opening, but keep working with the material until it can fairly closely lay formed to the edges of the opening. Using a magic marker, mark a line approximately 1" larger than the opening in the fairing. Cut the mesh with a set of metal shears, and bend the edges using the flat-nosed pliers so that the edges of the mesh wrap around the edges of the fairing vent. These edges are where the mesh will be secured to the fairings, so take your time and do a good job. The objective is to put as little stress as possible on the adhesive after mounting, so a good fit is highly desireable.
Mounting:
I have seen all kinds of recommendations and applications as far what to stick this stuff on with. I'm sure there are several good solutions that will work with equal success. I have seen double-sided foam tape used not my personal choice). I have had fairly good success with a high-temp hot glue - I have not seen so much heat that a thorough job on a well-roughed surface won't last well. I have also seen and used various types of sealants, adhesives and epoxies. When selecting your product, make sure to look at the materials and temperature cycles it's recommended for, and the time it will take to dry or harden.
- For both ease of mounting and long-term adhesion, I recommend this method:
Use a high-temp glue gun first to tack down several spots on the mesh. The glue gun is the easiest to use and hardens pretty quick. For resistance to heat, I then use a 2-part, quick-hardening epoxy to cover the entire edges of the mesh. Make sure at all times that you get good coverage both in contact with the fairing plastic, and in covering the mesh as much as possible -- this will ensure a good lasting bond. You may also need to do it in sections to control any running/movement of the adhesive while it hardens.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,844
Likes: 1
From: South Texas
RE: Mounting Mesh
thanks alot, i have some time before i got to do this, but this will definitely help.
i have previously been to customcargrills.com and wanted to get the black powdercoated mesh. if i were to get this and bend or cut it would it mess up or crumble the powedercoat? or should i get not powdercoated and then bend and shape, powdercoat, then mount?
i have previously been to customcargrills.com and wanted to get the black powdercoated mesh. if i were to get this and bend or cut it would it mess up or crumble the powedercoat? or should i get not powdercoated and then bend and shape, powdercoat, then mount?
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Mounting Mesh
ORIGINAL: rrasco
what is RTV?
what is RTV?
J
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,844
Likes: 1
From: South Texas
RE: Mounting Mesh
ORIGINAL: lang1864
How do u not know what rtv is?? It is a sealant that is used by mechanics to seal stuff. Mainly like differential covers, thermastat housing etc. It can be found at any local auto parts store.
J
ORIGINAL: rrasco
what is RTV?
what is RTV?
J
