Hi,
I'm a new member on here, but have been reading over all the "help my CBR600 won't start" threads for the past few weeks.... because I have a CBR600 F4i that won't start.
I bought it as non-running as a project, but I think it has more than 1 problem. Here's where I'm at:
Fuel pump will prime when bike is turned on.
I've managed to get the spark plugs to make a spark (it took some time to get here), by checking and cleaning all the electrical connections and the actual spark plugs.
I checked the error codes and got 2, 12, 13, 14, & 15 - that equates to all 4 fuel injectors plus the MAP sensor. They all plug into the same connection, so I checked and cleaned each of the elec connections and no longer get the error code.
The bike is currently in pieces on the floor as I found many, many bolts, seals, o-rings etc missing everytime I tool something apart so I'm waiting on a delivery of parts. I'm currently trying to check the fuel injectors and the ignition coils.
My question is.... I'm only getting a resistance of 10.25Ohm on the coil secondary. This is out of the spec number, but I get the same reading on all 4 coils. Is this a problem? As far as I can tell they are the OEM coils. The plugs I removed were super black and the electrode was like a needle, it was completely warn away - is this just because the plugs are old or could it be related to the coils not being quite right?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

 

Well, I learned an important lesson today. The service manual has a temperature range next to the impedance range. Testing the impedance in sub zero temps in my garage gave different results then the readings taken in my nice warm kitchen a few hours later. The warmer readings were within spec limits.
It doesn't solve my non starting problem, but does mean that I won't have to buy new coils or injectors just yet.
I'm still curious to know what would make my spark plugs so black and the electrode so degraded... and if its linked to the non-starting issues I had?

As more background to my issue; I have checked the pink cable and get 9V (I also learned that if you take this reading without the headlight plugged in you get a higher voltage reading), the BAS sensor is working properly, the engine stop and fuel pump relays are both working properly, my fuel pump primes and sounds like its working, the side stand switch is working. When I get the bike back together whats left for me to test?
Thanks.

 

I don't know much of anything about electrical issues but I do know that extreme temps can definitely make a difference in resistance!

As for the plugs being black, I'd be inclined to say it's indicative of the bike running very rich...

Good luck and I hope you don't have too many more issues to deal with before getting it back together!

 

If the Fuel Pump is priming, then there is really no concern with the Engine Stop or Fuel Cut relays or the Pink wire. The ECM is happy and turning on the Fuel Pump. I think I'd be looking at fuel pressure as well as ensuring that I've got a good battery with plenty of current to turn the engine over quickly. Might not hurt to jump from a car battery while trying to start it.

 

Tried NEW spark plugs, not just clean ones? Are they the correct ones for your bike?

 

Thanks for the replies; I haven't tried new plugs yet as I don't want to risk fouling those ones up before I get the engine running again. The old ones are the correct type - just horribly worn out.
My main problem at the moment is that I'm waiting for a ton of parts from Partzilla to arrive. Everytime I took something apart I found a new bolt or seal missing. As soon as the new fuel injector o-rings arrive I can put everything back together and attempt another start up. If that works, (fingers crossed), then I will put the new plugs in.

After all of that is when the real work begins. The fork seals are completely blown, the rear shock needs replacing, all fluids need changing, I have braided brake lines to fit, and it needs the throttle bodies synching.... but I need a working engine first.

 

As long as the spark plug electrodes are in good shape, you can use a torch to burn off all the crud off the insulator tip. It doesn't replace new plugs, but will help you while you are troubleshooting.

 

If you're ordering lots of OEM parts, you might consider ordering from Ron Ayres Motorcycles. Part Zilla is not the bargain they used to be.

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/c/...torcycle/parts

No I'm not affiliated with RonAyers.

 

Its alive!
I took a few hours off of work to put everything back together while the temperatures are above freezing. I used the new spark plugs and cleaned every electrical contact I could reach. It took 3 or 4 attempts to get it to fire up but I could hear it trying to start the whole time... it has been sat for months in the freezing cold so I'm not surprised it took a bit to get going.
Now I have a new problem.... the engine idles at about 3,000rpm. I tried adjusting the idle screw and it seemed to trim it down a little, but nothing significant. Any ideas what would cause this to happen?
I didn't leave the bike running for too long as it was filling my garage with (white) smoke. I wonder if its just the remnants of the carb cleaner, but it stayed at 3,000rpm for quite a few minutes without sounding like it was tailing off?
I think the smoke is due to the fogging oil and crappy fuel in the tank.
Has anyone encountered the high rpm at idle.... any suggestions on things to try to fix it?
Thanks.

 

That's great news
They will idle that high for a few minutes until the engine warms up and then tail off, I'm not at all surprised that it is doing it as it sounds bloody cold!