I have a 2004 F4i and bought this multi-million LED light set for it and put it on about 3 weeks ago. I went to start my bike and the bike didn't start. My headlight began to dim and I said ****...I'm loosing power from this light thing. I called my friend thinking I should buy a battery tender, but he said if my battery is below a certain wattage, I'll never get full power back and will risk the bike possibly just shutting off. He said if my bike has an accessory lead, to plug the light kit in there, and get a new battery. I didn't even know about this thing, does anyone know if my bike has an accessory lead? I tried searching it online, but couldn't get an answer. I'm very pissed off right now, b/c you try to make your bike look good and this is the BS you have to deal with....spending more to f-ing fix it. WTF!!![:@] Also has anyone hooked up a similar light kit and had a problem and if so, how did they get around it? My man thinks that I should run the power wire for the LEDs to a non-active fuse, so there is not constant power to the LEDs. I had this problem with my air horn in my car and did a similar thing, I just don't want to risk loosing power from the bike when I'm riding. Any suggestions?

 

the auxliary lead will be at the fuse box i think its the same as the non active fuse at the fuse box and u should get a battery that can handle all the electrical load the bike has if u added something that wasnt there and it pulls more amps it will slowly discharge the batt.


thats my 2 cents hope u figure it out

 

Thanks, but why did my friend say that I might not have that lead? How would I get around it?

 

i think your friend means the non active fuse spot at the fuse box its like on a car fuse box theres always a couple of auxilary leads that arnt used(non active nothings used for them(Auxilary).......) ive done it on my cars before using electirc fuel pumps, electric chokes on carbs ect.

If u have a test light get access to your fuse box and test the non active spots in your fuse box with the ignition key in off postion and in the run postion, u want the on postion auxilary then hook the leds up to that with the right gauge wire......then ur money your bike sould have the free spots

that took alot of brain power...****

 

The beauty of LEDs are.... they use very little voltage/amperage from your system. You said multi million light? Is that an exaggeration or do you really have a couple million LEDs you're working with? Any case, I'll have to research a little more today, but I'd guess you're still not using enough voltage/amperage to be concern over. One thing you can do is test the load on your battery while it's running with a multi meter. Have the bike running without the LEDs on, hold the probes of the meter to the battery posts and see what your voltage is. Run the bike at idle and up to about 6000 RPM. Then do the same with the LEDs on and compare the voltage to see if you are putting an extreme load on your electrical system. As for connecting the LEDs.... how do you want them to work? I'll assume you have a switch just for them, but do you use them while you're riding or is this like a neon kit that illuminates the road while you ride? If you want the LEDs to work all of the time, like while you're parked just for show... I'd run a separate wire straight to the battery and use an inline fuse. If you want them to work only while the key is on... tap into the fuse used for your turn signals. The problem with using a fuse like this is... if something happens to your after market lights and the fuse blows... what ever you connect it to will also not work. Read over the items that the fuse protects and make sure you're not putting yourself in danger. Don't use a fuse that powers your FI, your head lights or break light, or anything that you can't safely make it home with out. I'd have to look, but the safest thing that comes to mind this early in the morning is your turn signals/running lights. Yes... you're less visible at night, but you can still ride the bike home and will have a head light and stop light for cars to see. I'll check into the LEDs, about how much power they use... and see if I can pull up your bike to see what fuse to use and post after work. The forum doesn't load for me at work anymore... so I'll have to post later today. Good luck.

 

yeah your right..i told my girl that the only thing to do to avoid constant drainage of her batter from the lights is to take the power wire and connect it to a fuse that does not have constant power, for example the head light fuse....and an example of WHAT NOT to connect it to would be the clock fuse because that will alwasy be on... Now that you mention it i think that the accessory lead is the non active part on the fuse box...all cars do have that and that is how i hooked up my amp so that it doesn't stay on unless the ignigion is turned to the first spot.....we'll fix this problem

 

Thanks and FI light has come on, along with turning my LEDs on too. The thing just went bezerk! I hate this crap b/c it's more of a pain to deal with. Back to the drawing board. Don this is the link for the lights.

http://euroeffects.net/store.php?got...kits&item=3mmk

 

I emailed an eBay seller that sells something like the ones you bought. The set uses around 100 LEDs total and he claims the setup will only pull 2.75 amps. That's not much to worry about, especially if you've already swapped out any other stock lights for LEDs. With all of the testing you did while hooking it up I'm sure you had your key on a lot. That may have been enough to drain your battery and since it's a 2004 model.... it may be time to replace it. I just suggested this to my neighbor because he had a problem starting his. He took the battery and had it tested. They told him not to buy one because his was only a year old and tested fine. He argued with me and I pointed out with all of the other options, this was his cheapest test. He was able to pick up a new battery for $35 and that fixed it. The tests they do on batteries don't always work. Just a thought... and when your battery is putting out the wrong voltage... all kinds of weird **** happens.

 

Ya, 2 yrs is about what to expect out of a bike battery. Sometimes 3 seasons if you keep a tender on it.

 

I have a led kit on my 05 its a 4 piece kit no million color or nothing but its ran straight off the positive side of the battery. Then grounded and ran to a switch by the gas tank. I have never had a single problem. Except for some bloks starring when it starts fading.