Hi!

I have CBR 1000F -95 coming my way and it has been a try to stole it so the locks are destroied.
The ignition set is changed but the tankcap and the seat lock is not.

So is there a easy way of opening the seat wihout having to drill throug the lock? And if not how do I drill? Juste one big or!?

Or
Is there any other way of feeding the batteri whitout lifting the seat?

For start I would need to charge the battery to get it to start and that is one thing I want to do before I buy it....

The same goes for the tankcap but I gues that I could just unscrew all the screws around the cap and lift right?!

 

Take it to a locksmith - they are experts at working with stuff like that. Usually inexpensive as well.

But - since you're trying to get the seat off to test the bike before you buy it - I would think that if the seller is serious about getting rid of it - shouldn't that be their responsibility?

 

Yes it is on the seller... but it has low priority for him.
I have pushed down the price a bit or two so I guess he is waiting to get a better bid from someone else.....

So if I could get it open and test it I wont lose it to someone with more money :-)

 

If he won't pop the lock himself, I would walk away. He may know something else is wrong and is reluctant to expose the issue. If you do anything to the bike, pre-purchase,
it makes it your bike. Way too complicated to get involved in. It better be 50% below market value or you are looking at a motorcycle mechanics course not a ride.

There are too many good bikes out there to be falling in love with a potential headache.
This sounds like a bad deal to me.

Ern

 

Hi hi hi....you are correct THIS might be my headache....
But it IS 50% below market value with as far as I know, only broken loocks and some sratches from a small fall.
He needs the space and it is not bike season here now so I gave him a nice price or as much I can afford and he took it.
I just got a message that the loock will be open this afternoon so I´m going for a short ride after work......wweeeeeee :-)

 

Hello....been there and took just a wery short ride....Got the whole story to.
The bike has been stolen. Was gone for a week or so and found with the tankcap off beside the road. During the week it was gone it rained some but they dont know if it has been water in the tank. The tank was emptied and refilled for test start and it worked. This was made by our local bike garage/shop. They estimated the cost for the repair and the insurance company paied the former owner and left the bike at the garage wheere I found it.
So I will probably be bying from the garage or the insurance company dont know exactly the paper trail but My contact is the owner of the garage.
So to the bike...it starts with cables and sounds very nice, quiet and smoth in the engine. It has been standing still for over a month so some smoke sure and it did not react to trothle at once but once it got warm it did respond as I expected.
The faults I found was.
Tankcap lock is drilled open and can not be locked.
Seat lock is drilled open and a wire under the taillight works for now.
the bumper plastic parts on the sides, small in the midle, is gone so the steal bars is showing. Some small scratces on both sides but noting that is broken in the plastic.
The speedometer (tells the speed) did not work!?
And last if there have been water in the tank how does the engine respond to that!?

What do you tink? Worth halv the market price?

 

Definetly has possibilitys, Try running some Sea Foam through for a couple of tanks.
The water would only be a big problem if it stays in the gas all the time. the Sea Foam
will 'lock' it and burn it out of the tank. Best bet on the locks is start haunting e-bay for
a ignition, tank, seat/helmet lock-set. Should run about $99 to $150 for a complete
same-key set.

Have the battery tested (it's free at most auto-part stores).

Also, might as well check it right now and save a headache later, check the R/R and
connectors for heat sign. i.e. warped/melted plastic, burnt pins in the connectors or
crackedfissured epoxy fill on the r/r, itself. Honda went for 2 decades with a crappy
r/r design and is a common failure, especially on the older bikes with milage on them.

Hope it all works out well for you, good luck, Ern

 

Tanks!!

I´m not familiar with R/R !? What is it?

The speedometer failure is nothing to worry about you tink?...or is that what you meant with R/R!?

 

Never mind...changed the search terms a bit and got some hits on R/R so now I know!

But still no worries aboout the speedometer?
Is it a cabel/wire connected to the transmission or is it electrical input to the meter?

 

Not sure where the signal comes from to the speedometer for the 95 1000's.
Look at the back of the guages, if you see a mechanical cable going to either the
tranny or the front fork leg, tha's likely the speedo cable. If not then it should be a
signal coming from the CDI unit on the bike. You might try un-hooking the guage
connectors and re-attaching to see if it's just a loose connection.

Ern