well i bought this 02 cbr 600 f4i. i got it home an cleaned it up and the chain is caked with dirty nasty grease. im assuming the po used spray grease because its all over the rear wheel. i want to remove the chain an clean it with kerosene but heres the thing.. idk how.. ive always had dirtbikes and this would be my first street bike. i looked for a materlink and cant find one. ive read some threads on here to cut the link and buy a new materlink. i dont have the chain tool. can i buy a normal masterlink?idk if its the original chain or not.the bike has 10,8xx miles. any ideas or suggestions? i really dont want to leave the chain that nasty and i dont want to try an clean it on the bike if i dont have to because i dont think ill be able to get it very clean. its that bad. any help would be great. or atleast point me in the right direction?

 

It sounds like the original chain. Got a few questions for you...how far do you have
left on the chain tensioners? How do the sprocket teeth look? Are they uniform?
Or, do all of the tips 'curve' in a direction? Lack of travel and worn teeth will tell you,
if you need to replace them. When replacing, always replace the chain and both
sprockets as a set.

As far as cleaning, if that's all you need to do...center-stand or rear-stand it and put
the bike in neutral. First, stick a piece of cardboard between the chain and the rest of
the bike. Then hose it with WD-40. Get the whole chain good and then, walk away.
Give it, 5-10 minutes. Then, come back scrub it down with an old toothbrush, etc.
Wipe what you can get off, then do it again. Hose the wheel and whatever else needs
it, same thing.

Yeah, it's a pain, but still better than breaking the chain. Only have to do this once,
though. Hereafter, use a spray-foam chain lube w/wax, spray it onto the chain at the
top-side of the lower-run. Don't hose it, just go for good coverage and it won't fling
all over and be so nasty any more.

On the subject of master-links, the best option is always to rivet. The clip master
links are ok, if installed in the correct orientation, but still not as reliable as a
peened/riveted ML.

This only holds true if the rivet is correctly flared. If done incorrectly, it is dangerous.
If you do get a chain breaker/riveter tool, I strongly recommend having a qualified
mechanic, inspect your first efforts. Too much flare is as bad, as not enough.
Both conditions can lead to premature failure.

I hope this helps, Ern

 

yesvery much so. the sprockets look good. and for the chain on the wear indicator its just under the new section in the good and thats with the chain adjusted correctly. i dont see any need to replace the chain because it would just be a waste of money. from what uve told me i guess im just going to invest in alot of wd40. its really bad. thanks alot for the advice i think ill leave it alone an just go out on a night when i have nothin to do an start scrubbing the chain. one more ? tho. my wheels have a red design around the outer edge. i dont beleive its tape. will the wd40 eat the paint off my rim? the po got that spray grease all over the wheel. thanks again for the info.

 

It shouldn't damage the paint. HOWEVER, always test on the most hidden place you
can find for just such issues. This is a good idea for first use of any chemical, on a
new surface/finish. I doubt it will be an issue, but I'm not there. Plain old soap and
water will cut it eventually, Scotch-brite is a great scrub/buffer, but it IS a mild
abrasive, so careful of finishes with them, as well.

Ern

 

Basically, I think Ern gave you enough good information; but I'll add my two cents while I'm here. I was given this tip by a mechanic at a dealership. Once you have cleaned most of the gunk off with wd-40 and a brush, you can spray some wax based chain lube right onto a rag. Get it good and good and saturated. Then, whith the rear wheel off the ground and the bike turned off and in neutral, you can use your hand and work the lube directly into the chain by wraping the rag around the bottom run of the chain and working the lube right into the chain. This method prevents overspray and does a good job of getting lube right into the chain. If you let it sit overnight, the lube should stay put without flinging lube all over the wheel. It works pretty well for me. Of course your hands will get absolutely filthy. Make sure you have some Goop to clean your hands before going into the house. Hope this helps.

 

ok thanks guys. i got me a monster bottle of wd40 today and im gonna take it for a ride after dinner. just cant resist the nice weather then go to work with a tooth brush. thanks again.

 

What's the top-speed on that WD-40? I bet it's a tub in the corners!

Enjoy the ride, Ern

 

haha ehh id say shell go bout 160.. not much on cornering tho. i didnt realize i said that guess i should proof read next time.