Hey everyone,
Can you please help diagnose this nock that comes from my transmission area. When I put the bike up on a stand and put it in gear there are knocks that come from behind the drive sprocket area. After the knock the chain jumps. When changing gears the it feels "clunky", but has no problem going into the next gear. I am going to try and attach a video of what it does. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I would love for it to be something that I can repair or adjust without going to the shop.

ps. couldn't attach video, any help on that would be great to. I currently have it saved as a quicktime video.

 

First bike?

 

how loose is your chain?

try posting your video on youtube, then show the link on this forum.

 

The Chain is new and is tightened to about the recommended 1 inch play (movement). The chain only "jumps" after the clunking noise has come from behind the drive sprocket. The drive and driven sprockets are new and on securely.
This is my second bike, I had a F2 7 years ago, but that damn thing ran so good, I never had a problem with it. It has 31,000 miles on it when I had to sell it. I don't believe this bike, which I purchased two months ago, has been taken care of in regards to routine maintenance. It has 10,200 miles and looks sharp, except for this "problem" I like to be as prevenative as I can, so I would like to fix it before it makes something worst.
By the way, it's a 97 F3 600.
Thanks everyone

 

If your talking only about when you put in gear from neutral, it may be normal. All bikes will clunk a little when they are put into gear, especially on the stand as the chain is loose and allows the slack to be taken up and the resulting clunk. Try sitting on your bike, while holding the rear brake and see if the noise is less.

Also, if its really loud, check to make sure your rpms are not too high. The higher the rpms, the louder and more aggressive the engagement will be. It really shouldn't be any higher than 1200-1300 rpms at idle.

 

+1 that's why I asked if it was first bike. My F3 clunked and my F4i clunks N-1-2. It's a Honda thing

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Y1Q5KWXVuA
Thanks for the tip. Here is a quick video of what the symptons are. Please let me know if this is not long enough. The rpm's in the video are at idle at @ 1300. What you are seeing/hearing is the "clunk" coming from behind the drive sprocket. After the knock the chain will react to whatever is going on inside. Please let me know if you need anymore info. Thanks for your help.

 

What's the chain slack at? Haven't seen a chain jump around like that with the right slack.

Might try looking at the front sprocket and making sure its intact. Might be time for new sprockets

Edit
My bad, you said chain slack is right. When you replaced the chain, did you replace the sprocket too? Only other thing I can think of is when the master link was pressed / riveted, it was done too tight so the master link isn't moving.

 

The chains and sprockets were changed at the same time. I think this problem was there before hand, but it may be getting worst. Sadly, The chain seems to only show the result or reaction from what the "clunking " noise may be doing. Is there a chain that drives the transmission that would have slack in it?
Does anyone have an exploded view of the bike engine? 1997 F3.
Thanks.

 

It looks normal to me, aside from the chain seems a bit too loose. But you have to remember, your rear wheel has no resistance at all, so as your rpms go up and down at ilde, the slack is constantly changing with in the chain. basically, when the engine is pulling on the chain, the top portion of the chain is under tension, the lower portion has the slack. When the rpms drop, the tension and slack swap sides. the rear wheel still has momentum, but the engine has slowed, so you get the jump in the chain. Remember, this is all happening very fast as the idle lopes. the noise your hearing is the rear sprocket catching up to and putting tension on the lower portion of the chain, then when it catches, it slows, then the front sprocket pulls on the rear again. You don't feel this when the bike is on the road because the rear sprocket can't catch up to the front sprocket.

For example, with the bike off and in netrual, spin the rear tire and stop the tire from spinning really fast. You will see the chain jump and clunk. Also, as fast as you can, rotate the wheel back and forth, as this is what is happening when the bike is on the stand. And since the bike is neutral, you know its not internal to the engine.

If your still unsure. tighten the chain until just until there is no slack to where you can barely move the chain up and down. DO NOT overtighten the chain though. repeat the same process you just did and I will bet your problem will not be there. BUT......... make sure you put the correct tension back into the chain after the test. you don't want to ride on an overtightened chain as it will put too much stress on the output shaft bearing. But for this test on the stand, it will be fine.

Having said all this. Kuroshio brings up a valid point in that you should aslo check to make sure your master link did not get over tightened. Loosen the chain completely and make sure you can move the masterlink up and down easily without it sticking.

Another thing, is to make sure your cush drive is not damaged. If you not sure what that is, its the rubber drive cushions that are mounted behind your sprocket. they are pie shaped pieces of rubber that isolate driveline impacts.

but all in all. I think your chain is a bit loose, otherwise, normal when on a stand.