The 1000F also has an hydraulic clutch. If it was bleeded correctly so that the clutch lever is firm, something else must be wrong. Mine uses a small pushrod from the slave to the inside of the clutch. Could your pushrod be out of place?

 

[quote]ORIGINAL: chainstretcher



Sorry you went by the book -- I posted where I did the 520 conversion (with pics) on my 1kRR and it was only necessary to move the slave cylinder outta the way. Didn't have to disconnect it.




Ya, your right. That was my dumb A** fault. Went by what the manual said instead of looking around the forum. Oh well, bought the speed bleeder and it still didn't fix the problem so its in the shop. I'll keep ya undated to what I find out. Thanks for all the help though.

 

Glad you posted this man, i`m about to bleed the clutch fluid because it looking really dirty. I have a bleeder kit with a one way valve in that i use for the brakes from what you`ve said it gonna be no use for this. Keep us posted.

 

I don't think you would have a problem if you have the right bleeder. I bought the one-man bleeder kit from AUTOZONE for $6. Bad mistake. If you have a good bleeder you'll be ok. One thing I did learn here is after you drain all the old fluid out and begin to bleed out the line with new fluid DO NOT dry pump the clutch lever. I think thats the mistake I made and might have ruined the seals in the master cylinder. I'll let ya know.

 

When you use a vacuum pump on it you gotta be careful too -- it'll suck the reservoir dry in a heartbeat. The good thing about the vacuum pump is you can build up vacuum and "shock" the bubbles down with a quick 'open/close' combo. Hard to explain. I just know that even with the pump the brakes are a pain and the clutch is a real bitch.

It seems unreasonable that your seals would be gone because the fluid in the clutch won't evaporate. I see no reason that a small amount of air getting in would cause the seals to swell or crack -- fuel system seals and o-rings will die in minutes when exposed to air. Hope the shop gets it back to ya quick with only a minor raping.

 

Thanks peeps, i`ll have a go and let you know my results. When i`ve blead brakes before if i`m changing the fluid I don`t drain the reservoir just keep topping it up with fresh as i blead the old out until theres nothing but fresh fluid left. Never had any problems doing it this way.

 

OK just got the bike back today.......Are yall ready for the story, its kind of long. aslkjva;lkgja;lsjkfaoeijfaovkn;lv;alskjoituapoweit pongvpa0948tv7pw48ru napsdj sjhdslofjhpv fhpeivnopigjv nogijavslfjs;lkjfvoighapoihgvaosihfsdsvnx xcnzxcmn.xb,nfgjhport09857q09348htfkjhfasdjvhdsnsd jfhaldksjfhdjfhlaskjf!!!!

Ok, for those of you who didn't understand that, its ok. That was all the technical stuff. Now let be break it down for all us regular folks.....I WASNT BLEEDING THEM RIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!. Actually the guys at the dealership said I was doing everything right. They said there was a S**tload of air still in the line and they had to use some special bleeder that actually connects to a compressor to keep constant flow while continuing to fill the reservoir with fluid...Can't believe I told yall the truth, oh well, if you can't laugh at yourself who can you laugh at. Thanks guys for all your help.

 

 

[sm=icon_rtfm.gif]............[sm=badidea.gif]..........[sm=headbang.gif]..........[sm=boohoo.gif].........[sm=nono.gif]..............[sm=icon_cheers.gif]..........Its not the destination....its the journey

 

well at least ya sorted now eh,