Just got done replacing the front sprocket and have everything put back together and am trying to bleed the system. If you have a manual for 1krr look at page 10-7 at the top. I have bled the system till there is no bubbles in the line but the clutch will still not disengage the motor. The clutch is still real soft. What am I am doing wrong or not doing..Thanks in advance!

 

you must be talking about your brakes?

 

Well I'll tell ya, maybe it can be bled by hand but I can't do it. You'll probably need a mighty-vac or something similar to bleed all the bubbles out. Why did you open the system just to change the front sprocket?

 

I'm lost... you did what to the clutch while changing out the sprocket?

 

Maybe put a hydralic clutch on??? Not sure what he's talking about either

 

Dudes -- the 1000RR comes stock with a hydraulic clutch . And it's a bee-yatch to bleed[:@]

 

maybe he's refering to that

 

OK, lets try this again. I removed the slave cylinder to get to the crankcase cover to remove it so I could replace the front sprocket. The manual said to remove the crankcase cover I had to remove the slave cylinder which included bleeding the clutch system, maybe it needed to be, maybe it didn't, don't care I did it! Now that I have everything back together and bleeding all the air bubbles out of the system manually(by pumping the brakes and loosening the bleeder valve till all bubbles are out)the clutch will not disengage the motor. Re-bled the system and started from scratch again and still the same problem. Does that clear everything up. Sorry for the confusion.....

 

Sorry... I have the 600RR, all I had to do was to remove the sprocket cover and move the shift lever out of the way.

 

I understand -- really. Problem is, and I know ya know this already, that there are still bubbles in the system. You're gonna have to get a good vacuum going and suck the bubble out. Just squeezing the lever won't do it.

Sorry you went by the book -- I posted where I did the 520 conversion (with pics) on my 1kRR and it was only necessary to move the slave cylinder outta the way. Didn't have to disconnect it.

The manual also has some real happy torque values for the front rotor bolts. I snapped off two new bolts using their values before I realized hmmmmm, the book may be wrong. Other than that the manual has been spot on for everything else.