gear, sprocket, chain 101
#1
#2
Here are the basic's yum.
Chains:
Stock 600's generally use 525. Some literbikes and busa's use 530 because it is heavy duty, and some people do a 520 conversion on their 600's. 520 is a weaker chain but bought because it is lighter in weight, and losing weight in rotational mass is an overall large loss of weight.
Sprockets: Sprockets can control the amount of low end or top end your bike has. Going down teeth in the front or up in the rear will make you have alot more low-end power, but your top end will be restricted. An example is on my stunt bike I am going to be running 16 for my front (stock) and 56 in the rear (+10 from stock). Now if I want even more low end I can go down one in the front which will equal to +3 in the rear.
Also to add, you need to keep the same pitch throughout, aka sprockets at 525 pitch and a chain for 525 pitch. Also from what I have learned, replacing them all at once will give you the most life because if you put a new chain on old sprockets it will wear out fast. As far as sprocket material choices, steel sprockets will last longer due to being heavy duty but also add more rotational mass and weight. Aluminum sprockets will be lighter but start shearing teeth when they get worn down.
Chains:
Stock 600's generally use 525. Some literbikes and busa's use 530 because it is heavy duty, and some people do a 520 conversion on their 600's. 520 is a weaker chain but bought because it is lighter in weight, and losing weight in rotational mass is an overall large loss of weight.
Sprockets: Sprockets can control the amount of low end or top end your bike has. Going down teeth in the front or up in the rear will make you have alot more low-end power, but your top end will be restricted. An example is on my stunt bike I am going to be running 16 for my front (stock) and 56 in the rear (+10 from stock). Now if I want even more low end I can go down one in the front which will equal to +3 in the rear.
Here are the basic's yum.
Chains:
Stock 600's generally use 525. Some literbikes and busa's use 530 because it is heavy duty, and some people do a 520 conversion on their 600's. 520 is a weaker chain but bought because it is lighter in weight, and losing weight in rotational mass is an overall large loss of weight.
Sprockets: Sprockets can control the amount of low end or top end your bike has. Going down teeth in the front or up in the rear will make you have alot more low-end power, but your top end will be restricted. An example is on my stunt bike I am going to be running 16 for my front (stock) and 56 in the rear (+10 from stock). Now if I want even more low end I can go down one in the front which will equal to +3 in the rear.
Chains:
Stock 600's generally use 525. Some literbikes and busa's use 530 because it is heavy duty, and some people do a 520 conversion on their 600's. 520 is a weaker chain but bought because it is lighter in weight, and losing weight in rotational mass is an overall large loss of weight.
Sprockets: Sprockets can control the amount of low end or top end your bike has. Going down teeth in the front or up in the rear will make you have alot more low-end power, but your top end will be restricted. An example is on my stunt bike I am going to be running 16 for my front (stock) and 56 in the rear (+10 from stock). Now if I want even more low end I can go down one in the front which will equal to +3 in the rear.
Last edited by IDoDirt; 05-06-2011 at 05:11 PM. Reason: Double post, remember you can edit your posts.
#5
#6
Yes you can mix n match aluminum and steel ... as far as I know they only sell steel front sprockets .... just be prepared to replace the aluminum sprocket way before the steel one wears out ...
DID and RK are some of the top chain manufacturers ... they also have Tsubaki and Regina (neither of which I've used personally) just to name some of them out there .... Look for the tensile strength of the chain (if you can find it) .... the higher the tensile strength of a particular chain, the stronger it is ... if I remember right, you want somewhere in the neighborhood of around 8,000 lbs of tensile strength for a great quality chain ...
DID and RK are some of the top chain manufacturers ... they also have Tsubaki and Regina (neither of which I've used personally) just to name some of them out there .... Look for the tensile strength of the chain (if you can find it) .... the higher the tensile strength of a particular chain, the stronger it is ... if I remember right, you want somewhere in the neighborhood of around 8,000 lbs of tensile strength for a great quality chain ...
#8
#9
Driven is also a good brand. I actually just ordered a full setup for my bike and got a driven front, DID gold chain (cant help it they look so sick on black bikes even if it cost me more) and I forget what rear, but it was a stunt place i bought it from. I read some online reviews that regina is not as good as the japanese manufacturers but I never used it myself. If you arent looking for any colors or anything you can stick with a basic EK, great price and durability.
#10
There is a thread on another board where multiple people have had problems recently with brand new Driven sprockets being out of round, causing the chain slack to be uneven. It was a new kit with a new chain and new sprockets.