Just got my Galfers today. The instructions say that installation by other than professional MC mechanic will void their warranty. It looks simple stupid to install. Is it worth it to have it professionally done or do it myself? I will want the dealership to bleed. Hmmmm....I guess now would be a good time to get those speed bleeders. What do you guys think?

 

dude, bleeding your brakes takes all of 1-5 minutes, it isnt hard at all, esp with a vacuum hand pump, about 30 bucks

i dont know what speed bleeders are, but i dont see what they would help, since its really easy to bleed brakes on a motorcycle in the first place.

all you do, take the cover off of the resevoir,
fill it w/ brake fluid
slip a box end wrench over the bleeder valve (the one with the little rubber cover on it, @ the brake caliper)
put the plastic hose to the vacuum pump over the nipple (hehe) of the bleeder valve
pump a few times on the pump before you open the valve to build up vacuum. then slowly open the valve w/ the box end wrench just enough for air and brake fluid to start sucking through. when you see no more bubbles, there you go, brakes bled!

have a friend pour fluid in the resevoir as you pump, because if it runs out, air will get back in the lines, and youll have to start all over.

also if youve been pumping for awhile and you still have air coming out, make sure the hose is tight, lol that got me scratching my head for awhile

 

The dealership is probably going to charge you the same amount of money to install the lines as it would cost to buy a new kit. So, I say go ahead and install them yourself. It's so easy, and shouldn't take you more than an hour. If you screw up (which is unlikely), you can use the money you saved by doing it yourself to buy more brake lines.
Bleeding them can be tricky if you've never done it before, especially if you're bleeding brand new lines. Actually, with brand new lines, it WILL take you longer than 5 minutes to bleed them. But it's still easy.

 

Using the vaccum pump is the best idea out there. Just make sure that you put a little bearing grease around the cup cover to create a solid seal. If you have a good seal, then don't worry about it. Also, I had a buddy of mine tell me this.

After you are done bleeding, and you believe your lever to be as firm as you like, pull the lever all the way into the bar and put a zip tie around it and leave it for at least an hour. The come back, pump it a couple times, and let me know what your response is.

Hands down, pump bleeding is a gazillion times better and, well better than doing it by hand or even gravity bleeding.

And as I always do my own work, there is something about that sense of pride ya get from knowing your ride performs/ shines, because you've done it. Rock on meng!!!!

 

It's not the bleeding procedure that bothers me, done that before. I haven't done empty lines though, I imagine it can't be THAT big of a deal. I'm just wondering about Galfer's warranty/ liability statement. I don't forsee much going wrong if I do the work.

 

Dealer...professionals...HAHHAAHHAHA...
bleeding empty lines suck. you should invest in the vacuum pump. speedbleeders work great but need the lines already primed with pressure in them to work at all. you will still need to primevia the old fashioned way or via pump...the new skool way.

speedbleeders work great to bleed the brake of old fluid while adding new on there. the pump is too fast on this one. speedbleeders are useless for priming the lines.

 

+1 on the Speedbleeders
+1 on the Mity Vac vacuum pump

Also, make sure you torque the banjo bolt on the master cylinder appropriately. I failed to do this, and had a little leak until I got a wrench on the problem.

Super easy install.

 

oh yea fishnride...great point...stock torque specs may or may not work with the lines so be careful!!!
stock bolts have much great torque specs than the galfer ones. be very careful! i think galfter recommended like 12 ft-lbs or something like that...i was there and it still leaked...i just kept increasing until it stopped, which was at stock spec.i know too many people who just went straight for the gold (stock torque spec) and snapped the banjo "on my knee".

 

Galfer says 12-15 ft-lbs. Here's the question: What's the risk if I get it wrong? (Don't say brake failure, that's obvious)
I've got leak covered
Anyone ever heard of a line failing due to manufacturer error or installation error.
This seems like it should be a simple choice here...are they just playing on fear to get professional installation of their product?

 

if you install it wrong, you get leaks...period. if you don't bleed correctly...you get bubbles and squishy brakes...period.
if it's leaking from anywhere but the banjos, it's manufacturer error. if from the banjos, you're error.

i would think it's a liability issue.