Everything seems haywire
#1
Everything seems haywire
I've got a 2001 F4I with only 4k miles. It has a Micron exhaust and a power commander. It's running very rich, stalling, and having a rough idle. Also, it seems that the starter will just crank for ever and not turn over. There's a red light on the gauge cluster that comes on, it's the second light from going from the left to the right of the lights. It seems when ever that second light is lit, It won't start with the kick stand down, and the clutch will also have to be in (Even though the bike is in neutral.) I used to be able to start the bike with the kick stand down, with it in neutral. Now I have to have it up, and the clutch in... I am going to purchase a fuel pressure regulator and see if that solves anything. I was wondering if anyone else might have some other insight to what may be up with the bike? Do you think the FPR will solve all my problems?
#2
#3
Red light is the oil pressure light (I think). It should always been on when the engine is off, and always be off when the engine is on.
You might have a short in the engine cut-off switch built into your kickstand. It's pretty common on a number of bikes. That would keep it from starting, and if it's intermittently shorting with the bike on it could make it stall or sputter. I'd bypass that switch to find out.
That wouldn't affect your running rich issue, though.
You might have a short in the engine cut-off switch built into your kickstand. It's pretty common on a number of bikes. That would keep it from starting, and if it's intermittently shorting with the bike on it could make it stall or sputter. I'd bypass that switch to find out.
That wouldn't affect your running rich issue, though.
#4
Red light is the oil pressure light (I think). It should always been on when the engine is off, and always be off when the engine is on.
You might have a short in the engine cut-off switch built into your kickstand. It's pretty common on a number of bikes. That would keep it from starting, and if it's intermittently shorting with the bike on it could make it stall or sputter. I'd bypass that switch to find out.
That wouldn't affect your running rich issue, though.
You might have a short in the engine cut-off switch built into your kickstand. It's pretty common on a number of bikes. That would keep it from starting, and if it's intermittently shorting with the bike on it could make it stall or sputter. I'd bypass that switch to find out.
That wouldn't affect your running rich issue, though.
Is there a write up on how to by pass that switch?
#5
Yes, just search kick stand switch. I would hold off on the fpr until you solve the problem of starting. It should start in neutral with stand down. I think you just jump the plug out. Cant remember. If you download the manual it has everything you need to troubleshoot the clutch and kickstand switch.
#6
I've got a 2001 F4I with only 4k miles. It has a Micron exhaust and a power commander. It's running very rich, stalling, and having a rough idle. Also, it seems that the starter will just crank for ever and not turn over. There's a red light on the gauge cluster that comes on, it's the second light from going from the left to the right of the lights. It seems when ever that second light is lit, It won't start with the kick stand down, and the clutch will also have to be in (Even though the bike is in neutral.) I used to be able to start the bike with the kick stand down, with it in neutral. Now I have to have it up, and the clutch in... I am going to purchase a fuel pressure regulator and see if that solves anything. I was wondering if anyone else might have some other insight to what may be up with the bike? Do you think the FPR will solve all my problems?
#7
I took off the body, installed the new fuel pressure regulator. When I fired it up, it ran very rough, and sputtered a lot and died out. It was very rich, and had a lot of white smoke. Then fuel started to pour out from under the bike. It's not coming from the new FPR. I pulled off the air box cover and noticed a ton of fuel in each throttle body tube, air filter was covered in fuel, and the entire air box itself had a fuel in it. What is making the fuel go into the throttle bodies like that? Also, I think I might have found what was causing the MI light to come on, but I'm not too sure yet. When we had the body off we noticed a mouse made a home and ate some wires. Looks to me like they're to the t stat. I'm going to mend them and see if it makes a difference with the electric issues. One more thing, It looks like one of the vaccume hoses was blocked off from the previous owner. I've attached a picture of the house. Does they blocked off the hose?
#9
Does the hose lead to a port just under one of the throttle bodies? If so, it looks like it is throttle body sync port and should be blocked off. See if there is one under each throttle body. If its not, I'm not sure what it is.
I think you may solve a few of your problems once you fix the wiring. the only issue here is not knowing if any of the sensors were damaged from the mice. If they shorted out, they could be junk even after you fix the wiring. Not being able to start the bike in neutral with the kickstand down seems like a neutral saftey switch issue. But again, who knows how many things are related to the mice. You may have to end up taking apart the majority of the bike to rule out anymore chewed wires.
I'm not sure why it would be flooding as bad as it is. Other than the FPR is not working. That is the only thing that will allow fuel in. Are you sure its hooked up correctly?
Are you sure you don't have any physical damage? such as cracked block, head, or head gasket? White smoke is not normally associated with a rich running bike. Its usually associated with coolant entering the combustion chamber. If it was running really rich, it should have been black smoke.
I think you may solve a few of your problems once you fix the wiring. the only issue here is not knowing if any of the sensors were damaged from the mice. If they shorted out, they could be junk even after you fix the wiring. Not being able to start the bike in neutral with the kickstand down seems like a neutral saftey switch issue. But again, who knows how many things are related to the mice. You may have to end up taking apart the majority of the bike to rule out anymore chewed wires.
I'm not sure why it would be flooding as bad as it is. Other than the FPR is not working. That is the only thing that will allow fuel in. Are you sure its hooked up correctly?
Are you sure you don't have any physical damage? such as cracked block, head, or head gasket? White smoke is not normally associated with a rich running bike. Its usually associated with coolant entering the combustion chamber. If it was running really rich, it should have been black smoke.
#10
I took another picture of the vacuum line in question. It does not look like there's one under each tb.
I solved the flooding problem. I don't think there was ever an issue. When replacing the fpr, a lot of fuel got into the engine. I drained the oil, coolant, filter, and plugs. It's running like a champ-kinda. When I first start it up, it runs awesome, then an indicator light comes up and it goes into limp mode. I'm going to pull the codes tonight and see what I'm looking at. In the mean time, can someone help me identify this vacuum hose that's plugged up?
In the middle of the screen you'll see a brass bolt, its the house to the right and below of the the brass bolt.
I solved the flooding problem. I don't think there was ever an issue. When replacing the fpr, a lot of fuel got into the engine. I drained the oil, coolant, filter, and plugs. It's running like a champ-kinda. When I first start it up, it runs awesome, then an indicator light comes up and it goes into limp mode. I'm going to pull the codes tonight and see what I'm looking at. In the mean time, can someone help me identify this vacuum hose that's plugged up?
In the middle of the screen you'll see a brass bolt, its the house to the right and below of the the brass bolt.