I finally found a shop in my area that has a dyno. Luck would have it... it's about a 10 minute from my house. $60 for a base line. $225 if they do any adjusting. After the holidays and weather permitting, I plan on riding it down and having the base line on record. This way, whenever I make up my mine, I can see what my exhaust upgrade did. Right now, all I have is a K&N filter and -1 on the front. This should be close enough to be a "stock reading". My plan is to do the exhaust and PC III during my down time when real winter hits here. I will use the generic map... some of the shops will pre-set the PC III if you tell them what you have. I will go back and do a 2nd dyno run to see what it all did and post it up. Not anytime soon, so I'll start a new thread when I do it, but I thought I out this out to see if anyone has any thing to add I should consider doing.

 

-1 will throw it off from stock reading.

 

yep change it over for the dyno run, then get a basline

 

I was thinking the -1 would be close enough. Most people start out modding with a -1 or some form of gear change. I'm not trying to see what stock from factory is. I'm thinking having the specs before and after the major mods would be nice. Like exhaust and fuel management.

Do you guys think I should put it all the way back to stock before I do the dyno? I still have the stock air filter and I can put the 16t counter sprocket back on before I go.

Look back in a few weeks... time is short right now.

 

You should take donations and do it the way I've always wanted to see dyno runs done.....Get a baseline completely stock like you bought it. Then..........

#1 -1 sprocket only
#2 k&n filter only
#3 exhaust only
#4 power commander only
#5 power commander w/exhaust
#6 power commander w/k&n
#7 -1 sprocket, k&n filter, exhaust
#8 -1 sprocket, k&n filter, exhaust, PCIII
#9 -1 sprocket, k&n filter, exhaust, PCIII w/dyno tune

Really, with sprockets, filter, PCIII, PCIII dyno tuned, exhaust.....thats what? 24 combinations of dyno runs.

 

A little more that what I was willing to donate for the cause here. I will put it back to stock, all the way before I take it in. Damn... it'd be nice to have a buddy that worked at one of the shops.

 

Hey you pay for the flight Don, i`ll come accross and gladly be your grease monkey for a week my friend.

 

Dudes, gearing changes will alter the dyno readings a bit but it's not gonna change it enough to pay for extra dyno time. If your bike puts out 110HP stock (just a number I pulled outta my ***) and you go -1, +1 you're not gonna see a significant increase in HP. Reason is because the way power is measured is a function of rpms and time it takes to spin up the drum. If all it took to get big HP was gearing then you'd see the dyno queens sporting 65tooth rear sprockets just to brag that they got the best HP.

 

so... you're saying don't worry about changing my sprocket back?

 

The dyno measures engine power ... doesn't care if you have -3 & +64 or stock gearing. The engine is gonna put out the same amount of power. The only reason to re-run on the dyno is if you mod the engine -- K&N, PCIII, hi-comp pistons, etc. If you run back-to-back with only sprocket changes you may notice +/- 1 or 2 hp but that's not the gearing but the dyno -- I've never got the same # twice on a dyno anyway

Now having put that into print I'm sure some assclown will call me on it so I'll put in a small caveat -- if you gear your bike so high that it lugs then ya, it'll make less HP on a dyno but only because it can't pull through the gearing and you'd have to be an idiot to mod it that way.