Coolant??????
I think this subject has been covered, so a search may help. But some coolant have inhibitors that are rough on the water pump or may cause corrosion with the aluminum.
I use the Honda stuff in the blue bottle because I have had BMWs with problems using non-bmw coolant.
I use the Honda stuff in the blue bottle because I have had BMWs with problems using non-bmw coolant.
I flush my cooling system every 16000 miles and I have been using Engine Ice for a while now and have had no problems. I use it on all the bikes I service as well and I have not had any complaints about it. I did notice that it dropped my engine temp by between 10-20 degrees. You can pick up a half gallon for around 15-20 bucks.
I hope you are using distilled water and not tap water. Tap water has minerals that can leave deposits in the system and could lead to corrosion later on down the line. I know that water wetter is supposed to prevent that, But personaly, I dont want to take the chance.
I think that the use of ethylen glycol (any good brand engine antifreeze) in a 50% water dilution is more than enough for maintaining good cooling characteristics, lowering the freezing temp and making the boiling temperature a few degrees higher. Just change the cooling in the recommended intervals of your owner's manual to avoid sediments.
As long as you use the green coolant. Not that dexacool stuff. You can get some from your automotive stores or get smaller bottles at higher cost at a motorcycle dealership. I recommend getting the bottles that are premixed so you don't have to worry about buying distilled water. Engine ice and water wetter work well too, but are meant for the track. Not meant to be so slippery if you crash and it spills on the track. But engine ice is nice, i run that too sometimes. Just never run straight water, i've only seen bad things happen when it is left in there for too long of a time. As for air pockets. Add whatever coolant you decided. Fill up the radiator several times are most air bubbles with exit filler neck at this point. Once you are done bleeding there, I usually grab the radiator hoses and squeeze them several times, this causes coolant to flow slightly and help remove air bubbles, do that several times until you stop getting air bubbles from escaping. Then you'll want to mount your bike and lean it to the left and right several times until air bubbles escape. Finally run the bike until up to operating temp, which the T-stat will open up and allow coolant flow and bleed out all remaining air. Then you can top off your coolant level and now install your radiator cap. I know this is annoying, but you need to do it, because new bikes with their cooling system routing makes it just that much harder to remove air. I hope this helps
When I did mine I let it run for a while, reved it slightly to cycle the coolant, and also leaned the bike from side to side to work out any air pockets. Rocking the bike from side to side is what my service manual said to do.


