Cheap ass bolts?!?
#1
Cheap *** bolts?!?
Was putting on my Rizoma lh engine guard. Accidentally took out one of the wrong screws. No big deal, I'll put it back in.
Son of a bitch! Looks like plastic. And I was hand tightening it at the time. Hadn't even touched my torque wrench. Rizoma bolts went in fine and torqued to 10.8 nm per instructions.
Now I gotta get that piece of bolt out. Even better, I used blue loctite on it
Son of a bitch! Looks like plastic. And I was hand tightening it at the time. Hadn't even touched my torque wrench. Rizoma bolts went in fine and torqued to 10.8 nm per instructions.
Now I gotta get that piece of bolt out. Even better, I used blue loctite on it
#2
#3
#4
Damn that sucks, sucks even more you put loctite on it. Yeah my BMW 335i car has a ton of aluminum bolts. I replaced my water pump which was held in with three aluminum bolts. Thankfully the guy at the parts counter told me about them or I would have reused the same bolts, wouldn't doubt BMW using aluminum bolts on their bikes too.
#5
Don't know what the cure time is on blue, but I'm sure it's not longer (it's usually shorter) than red - and that's 24 hours. (although the cold may not let it cure as quickly)
I'd go buy one of those extract-o kits. The dealer will charge you an arm and a leg. If the loctite does cure - I don't know if they'll be able to get it out without drilling and heli-coiling it - don't know how much they'd charge...
What bolt is that exactly?
I'd go buy one of those extract-o kits. The dealer will charge you an arm and a leg. If the loctite does cure - I don't know if they'll be able to get it out without drilling and heli-coiling it - don't know how much they'd charge...
What bolt is that exactly?
#7
Don't know what the cure time is on blue, but I'm sure it's not longer (it's usually shorter) than red - and that's 24 hours. (although the cold may not let it cure as quickly)
I'd go buy one of those extract-o kits. The dealer will charge you an arm and a leg. If the loctite does cure - I don't know if they'll be able to get it out without drilling and heli-coiling it - don't know how much they'd charge...
What bolt is that exactly?
I'd go buy one of those extract-o kits. The dealer will charge you an arm and a leg. If the loctite does cure - I don't know if they'll be able to get it out without drilling and heli-coiling it - don't know how much they'd charge...
What bolt is that exactly?
They were 1 time use bolts by the way (why I don't know).
#9
Set time on blue loctite is 30 min, cure time is 12hrs and air/watertight seal is 24hrs I used to fly through those engine cover bolts because they were one time use. They design them so that loctite is overkill, the metal's elasticity holds it and seals it. Also they fail so easily so that you snap or strip the bolt instead of the engine, they use those bolts throughout the engine and why they charge so frickin much for the ones inside of it. When they are tensioned to a certain torque they hold the two halves to a certain tolerance around bearings and sh*t. Hence the reason they say not to use other bolts. Hope it helps.
#10
I've never been sold on 1 time use bolts in all applications. For intstance, honda says the F4i's front brake caliper bolts are to be replaced every time they are removed, ie one time use bolts. How many people do you think actually do that? I've replaced them once in almost 63k miles.
Some things, like chevy's LS, use torque to yield bolts in critcal areas, in which case I get the one time use. But for a side cover? Not needed. I'd replace all of those with normal bolts from ACE hardware next time you remove them.
Some things, like chevy's LS, use torque to yield bolts in critcal areas, in which case I get the one time use. But for a side cover? Not needed. I'd replace all of those with normal bolts from ACE hardware next time you remove them.
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