Well my replacement chain arrived via UPS today.

D.I.D 50VM X-Ring 114 off a 05 CBR1000RR. The guy bought the bike and replaced the chain with 50ERV 10 miles later.

Scored the replacement chain for $58 delivered. This should last another 30k on the 93 CBR1000F.

Gotta love eBay...

Now for a master link and riveter...

-Del

 

Why not run a clip type master link? You can press those on with a pretty cheap tool from any parts hosue.

 

Chainstretcher-

I don't wanna be a pain, so you can tell me to get bent if ya wanna, but could you send me some demensions on the chain tool you fabbed? I can get the material I need, I just need a starting point. If you could, email them to me: shane_workman@insightbb.com TIA, Shane[&:]



P.S. And mail me those Two Brothers stickers you have in your tool box!!

 

Well I took the bike to my local Honda shop (Performance Honda, Raleigh) and the service manager hooked me up. They installed the chain (I provided the master link $6) in 15 minutes and charged me $20.

What a difference it made too. My original drive chain was on it's last leg. It was kinking, making noise, and basically pissing me off. Now it is totally smooth. No noise or vibration.

Total cost to replace the chain (parts and labor) = $84

I feel better now...

-Del

 

Do remember that chain and sprockets wear together, and if you put a new chain on old sprockets, or a old chain on new sprockets or old sprockets and a different old chain...ect... you are goin to extremely shorten the life of your sprockets and chain..so watch the wear on the sprockets so that you do not snap any teeth off the things

 

Hey Shane -- no prob. Basically I just took a piece of steel (1 X 2 X 4) and turned it into a fancy c-clamp. Cut the throat so you have 2 inches vert and depth of 1 inch -- I made the top jaw 1 3/4 and the bottom 3/4. Drill 1/4 pilot hole through upper and lower jaw - make sure hole is centered or you'll have troubles riveting the chain (that's what happened to my less than stout motion pro tool. It bent ever so slightly and the holes didn't line up and it killed my master link.) The top hole is tapped for a 9/16 fine thread bolt (I'm sure 1/2 would work fine also).

There are basically 3 functions of the tool: breaking the master, pressing the new master and riveting the master.

Breaking the master -- I grind the rivet flush and use a 9/16 bolt that has a 1/8 hardened pin in the center. I just drilled the bolt 1/2 inch deep and pin is a 1/8 dowel. You could weld it but I haven't found the need. Center the pin over the link and use a rachet to press it through the bottom hole. Note: this is only if you're removing the chain to clean or inspect. If you're just replacing the chain it's easiest to just cut it with a ziz wheel.

Pressing the new master -- I took two old side links and enlarged the holes so that they'd fit flush over the new master link. Welded each to a 1/4 dowel. One goes in the bottom jaw and the other in a 9/16 bolt that's been drilled for it. Use a rachet to press the new master together. Use a precision instrument to measure and remember it's a lot easier to press it in another .003 than it is to pull it back out (read: press, measure, press, measure ).

Riveting -- use the same insert in the bottom jaw. The top is just a 9/16 bolt that I ground flat and drilled so that it fit over the existing rivet without touching the side plate. The object is to mushroom the rivet without further pressing the side plates in so you only want your attachments touching the pin. Then just tighten until the rivet is a nice mushroom shape. You don't have to crank on it until the edges of the 'mushroom' touch the plate -- that can cause the rivet to crack -- don't ask me how I know that[8D]

Sorry for the long a$$ post -- it'll take you longer to read this then it will to actually do a chain.

 

Forgot to mention that I drilled and tapped a 5/16 hole in the back of it for a handle --

And sorry but those 2Bros stickers gotta go on the new tool box -- they sell 'em on their site (seems like free publicity to me but they don't see it that way) or you can buy one of their systems and they'll send 'em for free.

 

Yep, they ask me if I was going to replace the sprockets also. I told them no so the mechanic inspected my sprockets and told me they looked fine, very little wear. They were actually impressed with how well maintained the bike is.

Then I made the mistake of walking inside the showroom while they were busy and checking out the CBR1000RR. They had (3) different bikes with various paintjobs. Nice bike but leans you over WAY too much for my taste. I looked at the Interceptor also, I like that bike alot.

-Del

 

You don't wanna 1000RR anyways -- the Ninja 250's are waaaay faster[8D]

 

Not surprised about the Viffer. I've owned two of them - a '93 & a '96; two R1's - a '00 & a '02; two 900RR's- a '93 & a '98; along with a '00 996S. Now, I have a '05 1000RR. It is the pick of the lot - hands down! But the '96 VFR would be a close second followed by the '02 R1 & then the'93 RR.

My problem with the new VFR is: it needs to be a full litre to keep up with its rivals (and the ruthless march of time). Honda needs to dump the V-tech and give it bigger bores/longer stroke and hotter cams/better mapping of the FI. Bring back the gear driven cams.... Gawd, the whine from them sounds like a Roots supercharger spooling up. Accompanied by the bass-boom-box from the exhaust (I had full TBR on mine) sounded like a NASCAR small-block Chevy.

And... for the price Honda asks for the bike they should throw in the hard bags for free. [>:] And... (I'm almost finished[X(]) the ABS should have a manual over-ride switch. There are times you truly don't want this technology, yet there are times when it would be an asset. Frankly though, I'd retain it as an option and not a captured part of the design the way LBS is on the Dos Equis.

But, non-the-less it is still a very sweet bike

Cheers