Hi All,
I have a 2011 cbr1000rr that had been sitting idle in my shed for approximately 2 years due to health reasons. I finally had a chance to start riding again but have came across a few issues. My fuel pump will not prime when the kill switch is turned on. The fuel pump will run if I jump the fuel pump relay which tells me that the pump and wiring to the pump is fine. I have tested the relay and it is working fine. I have tested signal voltage to the pump relay and have 12v. I have tested continuity from exm/ecu to other signal connection of pump relay and this is fine. As I'm getting 12v signal to the pump relay but it is not closing is this due to the ecm not grounding the connection, not entirely sure how the ecm side of things work. I looked through the 2008-2011 manual to troubleshoot and it asks to check on the ecm black harness plug for voltage to A4 and A5 which I got 12v it then asks to check continuity on the same plug A23 A24 A25 and on the grey plug B4. I checked these and they are fine it then says to replace ecm and recheck. But I don't want to replace this as they are quite expensive and find it wasn't the issue.

Are there any other components that I should look at? The bike cranks over still so if it is cranking over does that indicate that sidestand switch, BAS and kill switch are all ok as the engine stop relay is functioning because the engine is cranking or can the engine still crank but fuel pump not prime if one of these is faulty? Thanks

 

My manual only goes to 2010, so can't be sure the wiring diagram is the same. There are 2 not so well known fuses in/on the main Start Relay Switch. One is a 20A fuse for FI. Worth checking. They're not located in the power box with all the relays and other fuses.

 

thanks, have checked these also and are ok. Do you know if the BAS affects the priming and function of the fuel pump?

 

These are tests for ignition-coils and fuel-injectors. Don't have anything to do with fuel-pump activation.

Starter-circuit is independent of EFI system. You'll find that you can crank even with kill-switch OFF? Entire EFI system is off, but engine will still crank with no fuel-pump, no injectors, no ignition-coil/sparks, no ECU activity at all.


How did you test and measure to confirm ECM is not grounding fuel-pump relay?


Yes it does, we'll test its contribution along with testing relay circuits.

 

Let's test engine-stop & fuel-pump relay circuits. These start at 2 power-sources for EFI system, so let's trace them:

1. Fuse FI 20a near starter-solenoid, powers red/wht wire, then powers input-terminal of engine-stop relay
2. Fuse B 10a BankAngle in fuse box, powers wht/yel wire, then engine-stop/kill switch and BAS

After confirming fuses good, let's trace flow-path of electricity:


3. input-power terminal to ignition-switch, red wire, volts = ???
4. key ON, output-power terminal of ignition-switch, red/blk wire, volts = ???


5. input-power to stop/kill switch, wht/yel on harness, wht/blk on switch, volts = ???
6. stop/kill switch RUN, output-power from stop/kill switch, blk wire, volts = ???



7. activation-power terminal of engine-stop relay, blk wire, volts = ???
8. input-power terminal of engine-stop relay red/wht wire, volts = ???

9. activation-ground terminal of engine-stop relay, red/blu wire, measure resistance to chassis ground, ohms = ???

10. output-power terminal of engine-stop relay, blk/wht wire, volts = ???
11. input-power and activation-power terminals of fuel-pump-relay, blk/wht + blk/wht wires, volts = ???

12. ECM grey B15 grn/wht continuity to chassis-ground, ohms = ???
13. ECM grey B27 grn/red continuity to chassis-ground, ohms = ???
14. ECM black A21 brn/blk continuity to chassis-ground when key 1st ON or cranking, ohms = ???
15. activation-ground terminal of fuel-pump relay, brn/blk continuity to chassis-ground when key 1st ON or cranking, ohms = ???

If all these tests are correct, fuel-pump relay should activate and send power from engine-stop relay to fuel-pump.
If not, one of these tests will indicate issue that should be investigated further.

 

Hi thanks for the help so far. How i check that the ECM wasn't grounding was by testing continuity from relay to the pin on the harness, can't remember the number and continuity was good but not sure if this is right but by the sounds of it it is not.

So I did the tests that you asked and this is what I've came back with, at the start my battery was at 12.8v and by the end it was at about 11.9. Before I had seen your reply I had changed the EFI fuse as i found one of the pins was bent but not sure if was like this before i tried to push it back in, this had blown previously while I was working on the bike. I also had a look at the BAS sensor and all I did was move it to an easier location to test if need be. Since I did these 2 things the state of bike has changed. My fuel pump now just continues to run when I turn the engine off switch on and my RHS fan turns on when the switch is on. Will the fuel pump continue to run while priming if it can't build pressure? Tank level is very low or shouldn't this matter?

Anyway these are the results I got

1. Replaced, good
2. Good
3. 12.7v
4. 12.1v
5. 11.8v
6. 11.3
7. 11
8. 11.5
9. 66k ohms
10. 11.3v stop switch on???
11. 12.1v ignition off ??
12. 1 ohm has continuity
13. 293k ohms no continuity
14. 63, OL when ignition on for a sec and no continuity
15. 7ohms continuity (was this supposed to be brown/black wire?)

Thanks for help so far

 

Hi yes, brn/blk. I've corrected, thx.

#9 is activation-coil ground for engine-stop relay. This goes through BAS, then chassis ground. Surprised with that much resistance to ground, relay would activate and power fuel-pump relay.

Pump and fan running full-time appears to be ECM issue as their relays are activated by ECM only... However, you might have some issues:

- battery voltage. Appears your battery is dying as you do these tests. Re-measure battery at end of tests, does it match last or first measurement. Pull headlight fuse when testing and put battery on trickle charger.

- wiring faults. Blowing FI fuse when testing shouldn't happened. Or did you short that power-line to ground somehow? These shorts may also be responsible for activating fan & pump relays prematurely... maybe???

- bad relays? not likely since they usually fail in off position rather than not turning off properly. Test by swapping relays. Fan relay --> fuel-pump socket, engine stop --> fuel-pump socket, fuel-pump --> fan socket

I'll come up with some tests of relay lines to see where shorts may be that's keeping them activated...

 

Hi,

So i tried swapping the relays and found it made no difference. FI fuse was found at the very beginning and may have been self inflicted, it hasn't blown since.

With the fuel and fan running full-time that issue only came about after i had tried to test the BAS sensor. when i removed the mirrors/blinkers and headlight assembly to get to the sensor i had left them all unplug and they may have shorted and my BAS fuse blew. I accidently rweplced this 10A fuse with a 20A fuse which blew again. I then reconnected everything and thats when that issue came about, could i have possible connected the blinker/mirrors up incorrectly? as these were a dodgy setup and didnt have proper conection i possibly could have crossed a wire?

I redid the tests and these are the results: Headlight fuse removed and trickle charger connected: Voltage at beginning of tests was 13.8 and 13.3 after tests.
1. Good
2. Good
3. 13.7
4. 13.46
5. Not sure what way to do this test, so with everything turned off and meter probe from blck/wht to + on battery is 13.7v and with probe on the - is 0v. With ignition on im getting 0v from blck/wht to + and 13.4v from blck/wht to -.
6. Ignition off, RUN 13.6v black wire to + terminal. Ignition on, RUN 12.6v from blck to negative, 0v to +
7. Everything off. 13.22v black to positive
8. Everything off. 13.3v red/wht to positive
9. 30.4k ohms
10. Everything off. 13.3v blk/wht to positive
11. Everything off. 13.3v for both to positive
12. Continuity, 0.8 ohms
13. No continuity, 286k ohms
14. No continuity, 63k ohms
15.Continuity, 7.5 ohms

Thanks again for the help