The Harmonizer has a built-in tach that runs off the vacume pulses.

Ern

 

It's not really essential that you have an external tach. I just use the one on the bike.

On the "D" carb tool... you shouldn't really need it. If you have the carbs out, you can unscrew the A/F screws by other means (I use a bent up .223 shell casing..lol) Once you have them screwed out of the bike far enough, you can notch them with a dremel so you can just use a flathead screwdriver on them in the future. That's what I did to my Magna and my CBR.
Plus...the A/F screws shouldn't really need adjusted from the stock setting once they're set. If you check the manual it will tell you the stock setting. Just set them all and forget it. They won't have anything to do with the carb sync process.

Here's how I got mine out to notch them. (.223)




On using that Harmonizer...... it looks like it only has one vac port? If so, doesn't it take forever to get them all synced? I know on all the bikes I've done, changing the vacuum on one carb will throw out the rest of them.

I use a carbtune pro and it works very well.

 

It syncs between 2 carbs, so I used a 4-way aquarium manifold to go back and forth
between the carbs to get them all in sync. Attached one side to the #2 (base) carb
and the other 3 to the manifold.

After the carb sync you are supposed to adjust the idle (with the bike running).
To get to the main jets you use the right-angle tool.

See page 5-22 of the Factory F3 manual.

Ern

 

Aaah, I see. Much easier with a 4 needle setup.

I stand behind what I said with regard to those screws having nothing to do with syncing... and how they shouldn't need to be messed with. They also have nothing to do with the main jets. Those screws are factory set to the correct position. (see the notes section on the top of page 5-22. It tells you about how the idle screws are set at the factory and shouldn't be messed with unless you replaced them.)
Many carbs come from the factory with epoxy covering/locking the screw heads for this reason.
Now... if you installed different idle jets, then changing the idle screw positions may be necessary to tune the A/F.

You can spend $80 on a tool and mess with them if you like, but it's not recommended.. nor is it part of the carb sync.


The only reason I set mine back to the factory settings was because I wanted to make sure that they hadn't been messed with before. (because people tend to mess with them..... lol)

 

I'm not entirely inline with your thinking when it comes to the idle mixture screws. Yes, they are set at the factory and shouldn't be "messed" with. However, most of the problems people have with their carburetors is they're hard/won't start or idle properly. There is a strong chance that they have been "messed" with (and "messed with" being the operative words there) as well as they haven't been cleaned properly.

Given the age of our bikes, the tiny passageways are the hardest ones and the least often ones cleaned. Plus the fact that there are tiny O rings on them that get damaged from the carburetor cleaner that most of us use.

I follow the procedure in the manual for the initial setting, but then I use a Color Tune for performing the final adjustment. I too use the Morgan Carbtune for syncing the carburetors. It's easy to use and does an excellent job.

 

I agree with you, bill. If a proper cleaning has been done, and you haven't changed idle jet size, the factory idle screw settings should be good. That's all I'm saying. That's the reason for the manual recommending that you don't mess with them. I think too many people screw with the settings and chase their tails for no reason.