i can't get my ss lines to bleed,so i've come to the conclusion that something mechanically is wrong.so i have a fewquestions.

where can ibuy crush washers? does autozone or home depot have them?

are russell ss lines ****ty (quality-wise)?

how long do the seals in the calipers and master cylinder last?

i've heardthat "cracking the banjo bolts" can help get air out. that and hanging the calipers upside-down with the bleeder screw open.

are those electric vacuum bleeders worth the money?

this **** is pissing me off, and making a huge mess. any help regarding my problem is greatly appreciated.

 

Not really enough info here, but try this. Loosen the banjo bolt at the master cyclinder and make sure that it is primed. Then tighten up the bolt and bleed at the caliper.

 

primed? you mean brake fluid? its there....

what other info do you need?

i've been trying to bleed this **** for days (several hours at a time).....i've been bleeding them at the caliper and can't get solid pressure.

 

First I would top up the fluid to the master cylinder all the way to the top. Crack or remove if necessary the bleeder and let the system "gravity bleed". Don't let the master go empty though. This may take some time so be patient. If this doesn't work then I would re-install your stock lines and see if you can get it to bleed. I have seen master cylinders fail before. When you squeeze the pedal/handle (not sure if front or rear), you shouldn't go all the way down. The master cylinder piston is only use to going so far down in its bore during normal operation. Sometimes a small ridge is formed inside the mastercylinder bore from the piston stopping at the same spot each time. When you bleed the brakes and squeeze the pedal/handle all the way down you are pushing the piston past this ridge which can cause the seal to be cut or damaged. i am not saying this is your issue but i have seen it before. If your looking for new crush washers then any car part or bike parts place should have them. Just bring your old ones in for reference. Good luck

 

Err...
save yourself the time and hassle and get a mity vac...it's like $30 or 40 or so...don't bust the electic bleeder.

as far as getting the lines to prime...takes forever! like you just gotta keep pumping and pumping, turn the bleeder bolt and then over and over and over again...like a million times! unless you have the mity vac...the it's uber fast FTW!



wish you were close by then i'd say come over and get them lines working!

 

A Mity-vac will work for sure.

But you can save yourself some bucks by just bleeding at the banjo bolt first (as previously suggested). Just treat the banjo bolt like a bleeder valve. Once you get the air out of there, then bleed at the caliper.

 

i'll try bleeding at the banjo first, but i definetly see myself buying that in the near future. i dislike bleeding brakes.

tahoe-i wish i was in cali too, its ****ing 1deg outside!!! -18 with the windchill.

 

oh poor baby...it's like 80 degrees today...perfect...but i'm stuck at work...

 

yea rub it in....

this is my last winter. i can't take it anymore, i'm headed SOUF!!!

 

so i got my hands on one of those mity vac's

hahah, still can't get them 100% solid. its definetly better than before but it still doesn't get solid pressure until i'm half way thru the "stroke" (of the brake lever). i can build pressure up to about 15psi then i get a **** load of air bubbles. something has to be leaking. i'm gonna take the bleeder screws out and put some thread tape on the threads, hopefully that'll help some.

i have no idea why i can't get these ****ers to bleed. any ideas?