Can I avoid tapping engine?
#11
I tried drillspot but they only sell in bags of 25 or more. So I'm just going with actual OEM bolts from ronayers.com. I wanted to get those ordered to get this project back on track.
#13
Thkx- I actually had checked them out from an earlier suggestion but the longest M6 hardened flange bolt they had was 30MM - just discovered mcmaster carr is right here in good old Jersey
Last edited by danroonie; 12-09-2011 at 09:04 AM.
#14
I had something similiar happen twice; once the bolt kept turning before reaching torque, the bolt had stretched, and when I took it out it broke in half in my hand thank god, and not in the hole. I just looked up a place called nutty bolts near where I live, went down there and got a new bolt, same everything(I measured of course). Put everthing back and rechecked, a couple thousand miles later, holding good. Btw, oem bolt was 10 times the price of the one I bought. The second time, a different bolt came out with the aluminum in the threads; I measure the bolt, measured the depth of hole, and there was still a lot of thread left, so I got a 5mm longer bolt, cleaned the crap out of the hole and bolt so I could use some locktite(blue serviceable), dont use the green or purple. I used quite a bit of the locktite, but made sure it wasnt dripping everywhere; I also checked that one a couple thousand miles later, holding good. If you cant do like I did, just use a heli-coil, and a side drill; cover as much of the internals from debris, clean everthing as good you can, but change your oil after just to be sure. Use as much light as possible, and be very meticulous when drilling that hole for the heli-coil, or you can cause more damage.
#15
AH HA! G_954's note made me think- I DON'T need a DRILL and insert!!! I just need a bolt that has teeth all up the shaft! The other bolt just had threading on the very last 3/4"! And a longer bolt would help too. Here's the actual bolt that came out of the stud with the shavings still on it:
So what do y'all think? There are a couple potential problems:
1. Expansion: M6 bolts will expand differently with teeth only at the bottom. Because it's important for the cam retainer to be flat, I assume it would be best to replace them all with the same exact bolt.
2. Tension: I wonder if the different thread profile means that I should adjust the 180"/#'s somewhat. For now I'm leaving it the same.
3. Is the flange important? I would think without a flange the hex might impact the surface of the head, making the bolt reach farther than designed. What about the torque? At napa they said it didn't matter but then again, they would say that since they only carried Hex and no flange. If I need a flange who knows where I can get a dozen M6x40mm and a dozen M6x45 hardened flange bolts? I've come up empty so far. Since flange bolts are hard to find, what about using a flat washer instead of the flange?
Meanwhile I've cancelled the order for the OEM bolts and the heli-coil RonAyers was gonna take more than a week anyway.
So what do y'all think? There are a couple potential problems:
1. Expansion: M6 bolts will expand differently with teeth only at the bottom. Because it's important for the cam retainer to be flat, I assume it would be best to replace them all with the same exact bolt.
2. Tension: I wonder if the different thread profile means that I should adjust the 180"/#'s somewhat. For now I'm leaving it the same.
3. Is the flange important? I would think without a flange the hex might impact the surface of the head, making the bolt reach farther than designed. What about the torque? At napa they said it didn't matter but then again, they would say that since they only carried Hex and no flange. If I need a flange who knows where I can get a dozen M6x40mm and a dozen M6x45 hardened flange bolts? I've come up empty so far. Since flange bolts are hard to find, what about using a flat washer instead of the flange?
Meanwhile I've cancelled the order for the OEM bolts and the heli-coil RonAyers was gonna take more than a week anyway.
Last edited by danroonie; 12-07-2011 at 04:06 PM.
#16
There will be threads left below the stripped threads, not above. Replaceing the bolt with one that has threads the whole length will do no good. You could try a longer bolt with some locktite as mentioned that way the hex isn't directly contacting the cam cap. If that doesn't work the whole will need to be repaired. From the looks of the bolt, if the head is repaired, you could use the old bolt.
#17
Oh well guess I'm back to helicoil inserts.
There's a US bolt manufacturer called fastenal.com one of their 2,000+ shops is 10mins from me. They have lots of 8.8 hex bolts in stock but gotta wait a couple days for the 8.8 flange bolts. I'm gonna get all new M6x 40 & M6x 45 bolts. ~ 0.90 each. V. reasonable.
Flange Bolts | Fastenal
Thanks again for the helping me get this right.
Last edited by danroonie; 12-07-2011 at 11:21 PM.
#18
AH HA! G_954's note made me think- I DON'T need a DRILL and insert!!! I just need a bolt that has teeth all up the shaft! The other bolt just had threading on the very last 3/4"! And a longer bolt would help too. Here's the actual bolt that came out of the stud with the shavings still on it:
So what do y'all think? There are a couple potential problems:
1. Expansion: M6 bolts will expand differently with teeth only at the bottom. Because it's important for the cam retainer to be flat, I assume it would be best to replace them all with the same exact bolt.
2. Tension: I wonder if the different thread profile means that I should adjust the 180"/#'s somewhat. For now I'm leaving it the same.
3. Is the flange important? I would think without a flange the hex might impact the surface of the head, making the bolt reach farther than designed. What about the torque? At napa they said it didn't matter but then again, they would say that since they only carried Hex and no flange. If I need a flange who knows where I can get a dozen M6x40mm and a dozen M6x45 hardened flange bolts? I've come up empty so far. Since flange bolts are hard to find, what about using a flat washer instead of the flange?
Meanwhile I've cancelled the order for the OEM bolts and the heli-coil RonAyers was gonna take more than a week anyway.
So what do y'all think? There are a couple potential problems:
1. Expansion: M6 bolts will expand differently with teeth only at the bottom. Because it's important for the cam retainer to be flat, I assume it would be best to replace them all with the same exact bolt.
2. Tension: I wonder if the different thread profile means that I should adjust the 180"/#'s somewhat. For now I'm leaving it the same.
3. Is the flange important? I would think without a flange the hex might impact the surface of the head, making the bolt reach farther than designed. What about the torque? At napa they said it didn't matter but then again, they would say that since they only carried Hex and no flange. If I need a flange who knows where I can get a dozen M6x40mm and a dozen M6x45 hardened flange bolts? I've come up empty so far. Since flange bolts are hard to find, what about using a flat washer instead of the flange?
Meanwhile I've cancelled the order for the OEM bolts and the heli-coil RonAyers was gonna take more than a week anyway.
#20