Brand new 2011 CBR250R Neutral Issue
#1
Brand new 2011 CBR250R Neutral Issue
Hello everyone. I am new here and am a first time motorcycle owner. I purchased my new CBR250R just a few days ago and have been slowly teaching myself how to ride while I wait for an opening in a MSF course.
I have been learning things quickly, but a big issue I am having is when I finish riding I find it almost impossible to put the bike into neutral when I am stopped. I shift down to first and try to raise the gear change lever to put the bike into neutral, but it takes me like 10 minutes to finally find neutral. I usually have to turn my bike completely off and on a few times and it seems completely random when I do finally get the bike to go into neutral.
Note, I am at a complete stop when this issue is occuring. I have not really practiced popping into neutral to roll to a stop or anything like that yet.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, love this forum so far, thanks guys.
I have been learning things quickly, but a big issue I am having is when I finish riding I find it almost impossible to put the bike into neutral when I am stopped. I shift down to first and try to raise the gear change lever to put the bike into neutral, but it takes me like 10 minutes to finally find neutral. I usually have to turn my bike completely off and on a few times and it seems completely random when I do finally get the bike to go into neutral.
Note, I am at a complete stop when this issue is occuring. I have not really practiced popping into neutral to roll to a stop or anything like that yet.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, love this forum so far, thanks guys.
#2
Hey there, welcome to the forum. It's hard to say at this point whether it's really an issue, or if it's just that you don't have the "touch" so to speak. I have a CMX250C Rebel that I use for practicing slow speed skills with. I can tell you from my experience that during normal riding around town I don't have any problem with getting it into neutral. But, when I'm practicing in the local sports arena's parking lot (where they teach the MSF class') for 20 minutes and the bike is hot, it can be a real challenge to get it to go into neutral. I don't know if it's because it's hot or if it has a problem, or it's just the nature of the beast. It's not that big of an issue for me that I worry about it.
Since you're new and the bike is new you've got a few options, some better than others, but not having your license sort of limits you. I'd take it to the dealer and have them try it to see if they have the same issue, but you can't ride it there legally. I'd have an experienced friend try it and see what they think, but I'm not sure whether you want to trust your new bike to a friend who may crash it. Depending on how long it's going to be before you get your license may determine what you do.
Does this problem happen if the bike is cold or hot ?
Since you're new and the bike is new you've got a few options, some better than others, but not having your license sort of limits you. I'd take it to the dealer and have them try it to see if they have the same issue, but you can't ride it there legally. I'd have an experienced friend try it and see what they think, but I'm not sure whether you want to trust your new bike to a friend who may crash it. Depending on how long it's going to be before you get your license may determine what you do.
Does this problem happen if the bike is cold or hot ?
#3
You have any rider friends that can hop on it for a minute and see if it feel right or not?
Getting a bike into neutral shouldn't be that hard to do while stopped. You're talking about trying it while rolling - I would advise against that until you've figured it out while sitting still. There's a lot going on there, trying to shift, holding the clutch, braking as the bike slows. You shouldn't ever really be sitting in traffic not in gear, ready to get out of the way of someone barrelling down on you. (Super long redlights where there are already stopped cars behind you might be an ok situation - never leave yourself exposed to oncoming traffic from the back without keeping an eye on the mirror and having the bike angled to move up out of the way should you see someone not slowing.
Also - to be clear - you're talking about doing it both stopped and rolling with the motor running and the clutch pulled in, correct?
With the motor off, you might get the bike to engage in gear but then it won't pop back into neutral alot of times, as the clutch and shift drums have pressure on them now, and need to be allowed to rotate a little to allow the bike to disengage the gears.
Getting a bike into neutral shouldn't be that hard to do while stopped. You're talking about trying it while rolling - I would advise against that until you've figured it out while sitting still. There's a lot going on there, trying to shift, holding the clutch, braking as the bike slows. You shouldn't ever really be sitting in traffic not in gear, ready to get out of the way of someone barrelling down on you. (Super long redlights where there are already stopped cars behind you might be an ok situation - never leave yourself exposed to oncoming traffic from the back without keeping an eye on the mirror and having the bike angled to move up out of the way should you see someone not slowing.
Also - to be clear - you're talking about doing it both stopped and rolling with the motor running and the clutch pulled in, correct?
With the motor off, you might get the bike to engage in gear but then it won't pop back into neutral alot of times, as the clutch and shift drums have pressure on them now, and need to be allowed to rotate a little to allow the bike to disengage the gears.
#4
not sure on your problem. but I know sometimes after my bike gets really hot..i'm talking above 200 if I don't shift to neutral while coming to a stop instead of after I'm stopped I can have a slight problem getting into Neutral as well. hopefully you get it figured out or maybe like stated you just haven't been able to get that "feel" for it yet.
#5
On some bikes trying to find neutral can almost drive you mad. On my 1st 4 stoke (a CB250) it seemed virtually impossible & at lights I just left the bugger in 1st gear with the clutch in. Ido is right, you will get used to the "right" amount of lift from your left foot so you will get it right (well 99% of the time anyway). I think that you should see a big improvement when you change the oil at the 1st service. I can't remember which bike company did it 1st (Kawasaki?), but I recall the bike mags making a big deal about the 1st bike with a "Positive neutral finder", that's how much a pain it can be.
#6
I sometimes have a problem finding neutral too. When I got new boots I was halfway tempted to shut her off, drop the stand and put her in neutral with my hands
So far everyone is correct in their advice I'd say. Hard to say if there's really a problem or if it's inexperience. The bike is brand new and things are bound to be a little stiff till she breaks in. And on the street, you really shouldn't be sitting in neutral. As it will hamper your ability to respond to trouble as a new rider.
So far everyone is correct in their advice I'd say. Hard to say if there's really a problem or if it's inexperience. The bike is brand new and things are bound to be a little stiff till she breaks in. And on the street, you really shouldn't be sitting in neutral. As it will hamper your ability to respond to trouble as a new rider.
#7
Try slightly rocking the bike forward and back as you do the up-shift to neutral. That will sometimes help, when you are at a stop. With a new bike you are still wearing all the pieces in. The issue may go away after you've gone thru the 500 mile break in.
Speaking of which, don't run your rpm at cruise speed at a constant rpm. Vary the speed up and down a little for the first 500-ish miles. Don't run really hig rpm's at first (other than a occasional blip). That gives the piston rings a chance to wear in and seat. After that 500, change the oil to get rid of the metal particals that come from all of the sharp edges internally wearing in smooth.
Ern
Ern
Speaking of which, don't run your rpm at cruise speed at a constant rpm. Vary the speed up and down a little for the first 500-ish miles. Don't run really hig rpm's at first (other than a occasional blip). That gives the piston rings a chance to wear in and seat. After that 500, change the oil to get rid of the metal particals that come from all of the sharp edges internally wearing in smooth.
Ern
Ern
#8
Hi! Welcome to the great world of motorcycling! The trick is that you should select neutral just before you come to a halt. I know you may have been taught to select it once you are stopped completely, but some clutches especially on new bikes, tend to drag a bit. It should be ok once you get some miles on it. I always select neutral just befor I stop and have no problems. You could try leaving just a little less free play in the clutch lever to see if this helps. Keep us informed.
Hello everyone. I am new here and am a first time motorcycle owner. I purchased my new CBR250R just a few days ago and have been slowly teaching myself how to ride while I wait for an opening in a MSF course.
I have been learning things quickly, but a big issue I am having is when I finish riding I find it almost impossible to put the bike into neutral when I am stopped. I shift down to first and try to raise the gear change lever to put the bike into neutral, but it takes me like 10 minutes to finally find neutral. I usually have to turn my bike completely off and on a few times and it seems completely random when I do finally get the bike to go into neutral.
Note, I am at a complete stop when this issue is occuring. I have not really practiced popping into neutral to roll to a stop or anything like that yet.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, love this forum so far, thanks guys.
I have been learning things quickly, but a big issue I am having is when I finish riding I find it almost impossible to put the bike into neutral when I am stopped. I shift down to first and try to raise the gear change lever to put the bike into neutral, but it takes me like 10 minutes to finally find neutral. I usually have to turn my bike completely off and on a few times and it seems completely random when I do finally get the bike to go into neutral.
Note, I am at a complete stop when this issue is occuring. I have not really practiced popping into neutral to roll to a stop or anything like that yet.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, love this forum so far, thanks guys.
#9
Every time one of my bikes has had a problem going into neutral smoothly I have changed the oil and it immediately cures itself. I assume you have to get the oil changed by the dealer since it is a new bike. I would ask them to use a full synthetic.
#10
I have been learning things quickly, but a big issue I am having is when I finish riding I find it almost impossible to put the bike into neutral when I am stopped. I shift down to first and try to raise the gear change lever to put the bike into neutral, but it takes me like 10 minutes to finally find neutral. I usually have to turn my bike completely off and on a few times and it seems completely random when I do finally get the bike to go into neutral.
Note, I am at a complete stop when this issue is occurring. I have not really practiced popping into neutral to roll to a stop or anything like that yet.
Any sort of clutch plate drag will make it nearly impossible to find that elusive neutral.
If the clutch is hotter, the clutch plates "swell" slightly and make it tough to find neutral when stopped.
If the bike is cold, the oil is thicker and that can make the clutch drag, too. Once again, masking the feedback that you are supposed to be getting through the shift lever to your foot.
If you have the clutch lever adjusted too close to the grip, it won't release as much as if it was adjusted further away from the grip - once again, causing drag that makes it difficult to find neutral.
Old oil can make the gears more reluctant to disengage - requiring more foot pressure - and allowing the shifter to breeze right past the little, elusive neutral location.
Fresh oil will usually help - and most synthetics are recommended.
There are also cbr250r shift kits that amplify up the shift lever "shift detent" feel. Do a Google search for shift kit cbr250r.
But clutch plate drag is your #1 enemy.
Marc