Brake Pad Help PLEASE
Hey guys. I FINALLY got my new front rotors on, and I see that the side that was warped barely has any brake pad left... so I guess thats next on the list... I would like a good place to buy pads from. Im having trouble because no one lists how many pads per unit they are selling... Im assuming 2, one for each side of the caliper... or 4... a full set for the front calipers... or WTF? its sooo confusing...
I figure I might as well get a rear to go with them just to make sure I have them all replaced at the same time... its not that hard to do so yeah.... any good sites guys? I cant spend too much, as I need to save for an upcoming move...
any help is greatly appreciated...
Chris
I figure I might as well get a rear to go with them just to make sure I have them all replaced at the same time... its not that hard to do so yeah.... any good sites guys? I cant spend too much, as I need to save for an upcoming move...
any help is greatly appreciated...
Chris
Usually there's 2 brake pads per set, which is good for one caliper, so you need to buy 2 sets to do both fronts. I know the online things are very confusing the way they list some of them... I always just went to a local shop where my friend works and it was about $60.00 or so for 2 sets.
BTW I highly recommend EBC HH pads.. I've been very happy with them!
BTW I highly recommend EBC HH pads.. I've been very happy with them!
yup...ebc mang...there are lots of places that sell them...so like 60 shipped to your door. i doubt you need to replace the rear yet because it's just not used so much. if you do replace the rear, do not get sintered as it'll wear the rear rotor quicker...something about different materials in the rotor...but it all could be just a myth...like the boogie mang.
ORIGINAL: BlindLOKI
Hey guys. I FINALLY got my new front rotors on, and I see that the side that was warped barely has any brake pad left...
Hey guys. I FINALLY got my new front rotors on, and I see that the side that was warped barely has any brake pad left...
Also look at the DP (Dunlopads) HH pads for your front calipers.
ok slowpoke, heres how it is: on the right hand caliper, both pads for that caliper are good... on the left hand caliper, those pads are right on the wear mark, because the wobbling of the rotor wore them out quicker I guess...
what exactly do you mean? I am replacing all four pads... so will i just depress the pistons in the calipers, put the new pads on, put the calipers back on and seat the pads, ready to go? or is there more to this than I thought [&:]
thanks for all the info guys... and tahoe, im extremely scared of the boogey mang [
] im ashamed of myself [&o]
thanks again,
Chris
what exactly do you mean? I am replacing all four pads... so will i just depress the pistons in the calipers, put the new pads on, put the calipers back on and seat the pads, ready to go? or is there more to this than I thought [&:]
thanks for all the info guys... and tahoe, im extremely scared of the boogey mang [
] im ashamed of myself [&o]thanks again,
Chris
I got a full set of galfers from calsportbike for $58. Just tell 'em you're on cbrforum and they'll give you a discount. I bought the pads and a sportech windscreen from them and todd hooked me up. Gotta love the sponsors.
I guess it's the chicken and the egg story. Did a warped rotor cause one caliper to wear out the pads faster than the other caliper? Or was one caliper doing all the braking and caused that caliper to wear out the pads quickly and cause that rotor to warp?
Squeezing the brake lever should cause both calipers to squeeze the rotors the same. Unless there is an air bubble in one caliper. Then that one will not put the same force on the rotor as the other side. After you install the new pads, you will want to bleed the brake lines from both calipers.
Squeezing the brake lever should cause both calipers to squeeze the rotors the same. Unless there is an air bubble in one caliper. Then that one will not put the same force on the rotor as the other side. After you install the new pads, you will want to bleed the brake lines from both calipers.
yea in theory, all pistons should extend the same...but in reality...they don't. they pretty much come as far as they can so they appear flush against the pad, but when you actually brake, some pistons may not move at all! this is why you have to bleed your brakes often and clean the gunk off around the pistons. nissin calipers are known to stick like that...especially on the f4i mang...no joke! i just rebuilt mah brakes not too long ago...they are much better...but remember, frequent bleeding.
but in theory, if i fart then it should travel around the world, however diluted potency it may be, and be sniffed by someone in asia...or if it's a really hot one...rise up to the top and sniffed by aliens...but in reality...i just get punched in the eye for letting a stinky fly in the bedroom!
but in theory, if i fart then it should travel around the world, however diluted potency it may be, and be sniffed by someone in asia...or if it's a really hot one...rise up to the top and sniffed by aliens...but in reality...i just get punched in the eye for letting a stinky fly in the bedroom!
OK.... I was looking at my rotors and there is definately a difference between the two. When a rotor warps, its in kind of a small area... right? on my rotor it looks like a 1/4 of the disk is taken up by the "bubble". It also corresponds with a ding in the carrier... this bike has been put down before (jackass before me) so I was thinking maybe it happened then, and its actually the carrier that forced the disc out of alignment? think its possible? it just seems so right with that ding right in the middle of the bubble on the carrier....
anyways... when I get my new pads I planned on cleaning my calipers up real good, as they do have quite a bit of brake dust on them. when I take the old pads off ill be sure to get the "gunk" out of them as good as possible before installing the new ones... hopefully my problems will be solved. If only one caliper is biting, i should be able to tell the difference when riding, or at least difference in wear characteristics of the pads right?
thanks for the help guys,
Chris
anyways... when I get my new pads I planned on cleaning my calipers up real good, as they do have quite a bit of brake dust on them. when I take the old pads off ill be sure to get the "gunk" out of them as good as possible before installing the new ones... hopefully my problems will be solved. If only one caliper is biting, i should be able to tell the difference when riding, or at least difference in wear characteristics of the pads right?
thanks for the help guys,
Chris
wait...i think we're mixing caliper with pistons...
if only 1 caliper is biting, you will feel the difference...similar as in cars when right front is better, it pulls but for a bike it's different feeling but noticeable.
i'm talking about the pistons in the calipers. there's 2 on each side of the caliper, so 4 per calip and 8 all together. the pad rubs against the rotor at all times but when you sqeeze the lever, the pistons extend and then go back when you let go. after you install your brakes and pull the lever, the pistons will slowly move into position behind the pad as you pump the lever. afterwards, they just kinda sit there...they move somewhat but not in perfect harmony you know.
now for a warped rotor, if you have venier caipers, measuer it all the way through, it should be the same thickness more or less all the way through. if not, then it's warped...or as you said, looks like there's a curve or bubble in it...make sure it's not the rim that's bent or as you say the carrier, cause otherwise, you'll always have that bend there.
if only 1 caliper is biting, you will feel the difference...similar as in cars when right front is better, it pulls but for a bike it's different feeling but noticeable.
i'm talking about the pistons in the calipers. there's 2 on each side of the caliper, so 4 per calip and 8 all together. the pad rubs against the rotor at all times but when you sqeeze the lever, the pistons extend and then go back when you let go. after you install your brakes and pull the lever, the pistons will slowly move into position behind the pad as you pump the lever. afterwards, they just kinda sit there...they move somewhat but not in perfect harmony you know.
now for a warped rotor, if you have venier caipers, measuer it all the way through, it should be the same thickness more or less all the way through. if not, then it's warped...or as you said, looks like there's a curve or bubble in it...make sure it's not the rim that's bent or as you say the carrier, cause otherwise, you'll always have that bend there.


