Oh thank u. I thought the drains were the jet screws. Guess its time to yank them again. Man i hate carbs sometimes

 

No worries. I've been there myself, many times. :-)


If you want to learn more about carbs and how they work and how to troubleshoot them without wanting to put an icepick through your temple, I highly recommend this:


I'm a big fan of this guy. He has all kinds of general motorcycle repair how to video's.

 

Thank i again

 

Ok next question what tool to i need to adjust jets cause i dont think i got that tool right now

 

IIRC, your carbs have a D-shaped head for mixture adjustment, which requires a special tool. Many people cut slots in the top then just use a screwdriver.

 

Here's what I bought when I started working on the carbs of my '98 600f3:


1. Really long screw driver set:
2 Piece Super Long Screwdriver Set


2. D-shaped bit and 90 degree tool:
Carb Tool 90 Degree w/Bits | Motion Pro


3. Auxiliary fuel bottle:
Auxiliary Fuel Tank | Motion Pro


4. Carb Sync gauges:
K&L Carburetor Synchronizer | ZZ40036 | J&P Cycles


5. bench tach:


The links go to the specific products I bought, not necessarily the site from which I got them, except from harbor freight.


Do you need all of that stuff? Probably not. But it made my life tons easier.
For instance, I didn't want to risk scratching or dinging my tank. I tried about a bajillion homemade things for an external tank but none them really worked without leaking. So I just dropped the bucks on that.
Like mentioned above, you can forego the d-shaped tool if you want. With the carbs removed and turned upside down, you can take a hacksaw and cut a groove into the top of the pilot jet. It's a very simple process and totally safe on the carbs as long as you just cut enough to do the job.
Some people suggest taking a .22 bullet casing and bending it to a D-shape and use that. I didn't have much luck with that approach. Sometimes I use the D-Shaped bit, sometimes I use a straight slotted head. But I pretty much always use the 90 degree tool. Keep in mind I make my final adjustments with the carbs mounted and the bike running so that tool makes my life easier and my hands not burned.
The bench tach, you could get away with not having if you are tight on cash. I will say that most factory tachs mounted on the bikes aren't as accurate as a bench tach. The Honda service manual even admits that.
The sync gauges can be homemade if you wanted to do that. There's a ton of videos on the interwebs that show how to do that.
I actually have a little bit more cash than I do free time. That's why I opted to buy mine and I could use my little free time to actually work on the bike, not make the gauges.
Finally, the primary reason I laid down the $$ to buy all the tools is 1., I really like buying tools, :-) And 2., I wanted to restore the bike back to as close to perfect as I could. You could get by without vacuum syncing your carbs all together and just bench sync them. But I don't think you'd be totally happy with the results.

 

Ok got new plugs and fuel pump. In doing so i noticed that when i block off 3/4 of the muffler it sputters to life much quicker.

Any ideas?

 

Have you checked the compression on each of the cylinders?

 

I have no compression tester. U thinkin valves or blown gasket?

 

Don't know if that's the case or not. Not even sure it's an issue. But it is an interesting observation nonetheless.

If it is in fact poor compression, it could be valves or head gasket like you said. Or it could be as simple as a sparkplug cross threaded or not tightened all the way. It could be incorrect plugs all together. Worn piston rings can cause that too.


That's why a compression tester might help. They are less than $25.00 at harbor freight or ebay. Or if you if you are in a pinch, some auto parts stores will either loan or rent them out to you. Knowing what's going on with each cylinder is big step in figuring out if you have an issue or not.


If it were me, I'd want to know that before I tear into a head gasket.