Best way to go about fixing this scratch/crack?
Does anyone have any idea how I should go about fixing this scratch/crack? Or should I just take it somewhere if its not too much. Right now Im looking at purchasing a new vent fairing which is cracked and then covering the scratch with a decal. Anyone know if I can get my hands on some purple stickers or paint? Also any idea on what color code this may be???
color rite sells any factory color in either spray, touch up pen, or little jars that resemble nail polish. Just look up your bikes year and there are all of the color choices.
It looks very similar to the peragon blue pearl my old F3 smok'n joes was. At least, I think thats what it was called.
heres a link to colorrite.
http://www.colorrite.com/
as for fixing it. Its hard to tell from the picture. but if its a crack, I would start by taking a small drill bit and drilling a hole at both ends of the crack to stop the crack from getting bigger. Then, it looks like its a pretty small area, I would take some fiberglass resin and build it up over the area. Sand it down and touch it up with the paint.
It looks very similar to the peragon blue pearl my old F3 smok'n joes was. At least, I think thats what it was called.
heres a link to colorrite.
http://www.colorrite.com/
as for fixing it. Its hard to tell from the picture. but if its a crack, I would start by taking a small drill bit and drilling a hole at both ends of the crack to stop the crack from getting bigger. Then, it looks like its a pretty small area, I would take some fiberglass resin and build it up over the area. Sand it down and touch it up with the paint.
The resin is bought from just about any autoparts store, or hardware store, even places like walmart carry it. What it is a two part resin. Normally, it used with the fiberglass cloth and reinforces the fiberglass cloth. But, it can also be used by itself.
What you want to do is, mix the two parts together, apply it to the area, let it dry until it is hard, but still feels a bit warm, then sand it smooth. If you wait until its completely hardened, it will be very hard and sanding it down will require some extra effort.
I can't caution enough about needing a well ventilated area, such as outside. The stuff can become quite headache inducing. you definately want a lot of fresh air.
Also, you can play around with it a bit. If its too runny and not staying put, wait a few minutes longer for it thicken up before you apply. However, be very careful, as once it starts to jell, it doesn't take long at all to become un-usable.
Also, take some quality masking tape and tape off the surrounding area leaving only the crack and low spots of the fairing exposed. this way, when you sand down the resin, you don't accidentally scratch the good parts of your fairing. that way, if you decide to use the paint pens or brush, your area you have to cover is very thin and small, and won't be nearly as noticeable.
As for doing it yourself. It doesnt look too bad. But if you want it to look like nothing ever happened, you will probably have repaint the entire fairing, not just touch it up. And, if your not familiar with paints, getting it done professionally may be the way to go. However, your probably looking at 300 bucks to have it done. If you can live it with looking better than it does, but still noticeable, I'd tackle it yourself.
One more thing, after looking at the pic a little closer. I might even be inclined to use a two part epoxy. Its pretty cheap and sticks to most plastics. Again, can be bought just about anywhere. they usually have two joined tubes that as you press the plunger, each tube lets out the proper amount of the hardener and plastic. Just mix it up, apply it, and 5 minutes later, its hard enough to sand down. PLus, you could apply it to both side to add support, especially if you drill out each end of the crack, the epoxy will bond itself through the holes. it would certainly be easier to deal with than the resin, but not sure on its strength. I think I would buy the epoxy, apply a little to the inside of the fairing and see how well it holds up. Also, make sure any place you plan on using the epoxy or resin is sanded with a fairly rough sand paper to give the material something to grab to, and it will also clean the plastic and remove any releasing agent that may be present. Something like 120 grit would be good.
What you want to do is, mix the two parts together, apply it to the area, let it dry until it is hard, but still feels a bit warm, then sand it smooth. If you wait until its completely hardened, it will be very hard and sanding it down will require some extra effort.
I can't caution enough about needing a well ventilated area, such as outside. The stuff can become quite headache inducing. you definately want a lot of fresh air.
Also, you can play around with it a bit. If its too runny and not staying put, wait a few minutes longer for it thicken up before you apply. However, be very careful, as once it starts to jell, it doesn't take long at all to become un-usable.
Also, take some quality masking tape and tape off the surrounding area leaving only the crack and low spots of the fairing exposed. this way, when you sand down the resin, you don't accidentally scratch the good parts of your fairing. that way, if you decide to use the paint pens or brush, your area you have to cover is very thin and small, and won't be nearly as noticeable.
As for doing it yourself. It doesnt look too bad. But if you want it to look like nothing ever happened, you will probably have repaint the entire fairing, not just touch it up. And, if your not familiar with paints, getting it done professionally may be the way to go. However, your probably looking at 300 bucks to have it done. If you can live it with looking better than it does, but still noticeable, I'd tackle it yourself.
One more thing, after looking at the pic a little closer. I might even be inclined to use a two part epoxy. Its pretty cheap and sticks to most plastics. Again, can be bought just about anywhere. they usually have two joined tubes that as you press the plunger, each tube lets out the proper amount of the hardener and plastic. Just mix it up, apply it, and 5 minutes later, its hard enough to sand down. PLus, you could apply it to both side to add support, especially if you drill out each end of the crack, the epoxy will bond itself through the holes. it would certainly be easier to deal with than the resin, but not sure on its strength. I think I would buy the epoxy, apply a little to the inside of the fairing and see how well it holds up. Also, make sure any place you plan on using the epoxy or resin is sanded with a fairly rough sand paper to give the material something to grab to, and it will also clean the plastic and remove any releasing agent that may be present. Something like 120 grit would be good.
Last edited by justasquid; Jun 24, 2010 at 11:34 PM.
If I were you I'd just paint over it, you won't notice it after a while.
I had better luck with a two part epoxy than with fiberglass repair kits. Made by Permatex, designed for ABS and it only cost 5 bucks at the auto parts store. To add to what squid said, drill out a series of holes along the crack so that there is a half a hole on each side of the crack, also bevel the edges of the crack with the sand paper, this will give you more surface area to bond to. And the extra holes help keep the crack from comming back in a few months, by allowing the "inner" layer and "outter" layer to bond to each other.
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