Basics of changing/replacing tires
#1
03-18-2009, 12:03 AM
Basics of changing/replacing tires
I'm 3 years new into the motorcycle world.
As a 22 year old college student living off student loans and scholarships, without money or time for a job, I need to find the most cost effective way of doing things, replacing my motorcycle tires included.
1)What are the basics of tire replacement?
2)what is the most cost effective method of replacing tires (having the shop do it all, or buying your own and having the shop put the tires on the rims and balance as well as spending money on a stand (set?) so you can put them on the bike yourself?)
3)What kind of tires are generally recommended/ what does a good set of tires consist of? (specifically for a cbr1000f, that spends alot of time on the highway) I heard that there were special tires that has harder material towards the center of the tire so that it lasts longer on the highway, with softer material on the edges to help with grip while leaning; are they worth it?)
These questions come from the point of view of a relatively new motorcyclist with a mechanical inclination, but with limited experience, limited money, and limited access to tools (unless they are cheap enough to purchase)
I've gone through three sets of tires in three years, and I need to change the ones I have on now pretty badly. up until now, I've always had the shop do everything, but I'm now focused on school and not working, and money is more of a concern to me. Its not quite as bad on the set I have now, but in the past, towards the end of the life of the back tire, I was able to see a very distinct flat area covering the entire circumference of the tire, which shows that the bike primarily sees highways as apposed to curves.
(If this thread becomes informational enough, it might be good as a sticky. I havent found answers to all of these questions after searching the posts on the forum for a while, so it might be good to have some of this basic info, that most veterans already know, easily accessible to the newer guys like myself.) Thanks everyone immensely. I have asked a few questions on this forum, but primarily lurked and was able to find the information I needed. I think this line of basic questioning is worthy of being answered, so can all you cbr wizards with infinite knowledge shed some light upon these issues?
Thanks again,
Nick
As a 22 year old college student living off student loans and scholarships, without money or time for a job, I need to find the most cost effective way of doing things, replacing my motorcycle tires included.
1)What are the basics of tire replacement?
2)what is the most cost effective method of replacing tires (having the shop do it all, or buying your own and having the shop put the tires on the rims and balance as well as spending money on a stand (set?) so you can put them on the bike yourself?)
3)What kind of tires are generally recommended/ what does a good set of tires consist of? (specifically for a cbr1000f, that spends alot of time on the highway) I heard that there were special tires that has harder material towards the center of the tire so that it lasts longer on the highway, with softer material on the edges to help with grip while leaning; are they worth it?)
These questions come from the point of view of a relatively new motorcyclist with a mechanical inclination, but with limited experience, limited money, and limited access to tools (unless they are cheap enough to purchase)
I've gone through three sets of tires in three years, and I need to change the ones I have on now pretty badly. up until now, I've always had the shop do everything, but I'm now focused on school and not working, and money is more of a concern to me. Its not quite as bad on the set I have now, but in the past, towards the end of the life of the back tire, I was able to see a very distinct flat area covering the entire circumference of the tire, which shows that the bike primarily sees highways as apposed to curves.
(If this thread becomes informational enough, it might be good as a sticky. I havent found answers to all of these questions after searching the posts on the forum for a while, so it might be good to have some of this basic info, that most veterans already know, easily accessible to the newer guys like myself.) Thanks everyone immensely. I have asked a few questions on this forum, but primarily lurked and was able to find the information I needed. I think this line of basic questioning is worthy of being answered, so can all you cbr wizards with infinite knowledge shed some light upon these issues?
Thanks again,
Nick
#2
03-18-2009, 01:32 AM
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You can change your tires yourself with a set of tire spoons, but I would never recommend doing that. I would bring the tires to a dealer and have them do it. Its not worth the risk of damaging your rim or your new tires.
Personally, A friend of mine has a no mar tire changer and it works amazingly well. If you ever watch the videos on thier website, it really is as easy it looks. But he bought his used for just over 100 bucks. Im not sure what they are new.
if your bike only sees highway use and you really dont get aggressive with it, I would suggest getting a set of touring tires. they dont grip as well, but they last easly twice as long. Just be sure you dont plan doing any aggressive riding if you go that route.
As far as the dual or triple compound tires. they are harder in the middle, and softer to the sides. But they are only softer to the sides when compared to the same type of tires, the middle is the same compound, just softer on the sides for more grip in the corners, so they wouldnt offer any more longevity over a single compound performance tire.
I personally run Michelin Pilot Powers. they seem to have more life than compareable dunlops or pirelli's, but they are a performance tire and you could get more life out of a harder compound touring tire. You should be able to save a little money as well with touring tires, they dont cost as much as performance tires.
Almost all tires that get replaced have the center worn out before the sides and have a distinct flat spot. Most bikes no matter how hard someone may ride, will see far more straight roads than curves. Plus, your bike is in a straight line for longer periods of time and the heat builds up in the center much more compared to the sides.
Personally, A friend of mine has a no mar tire changer and it works amazingly well. If you ever watch the videos on thier website, it really is as easy it looks. But he bought his used for just over 100 bucks. Im not sure what they are new.
if your bike only sees highway use and you really dont get aggressive with it, I would suggest getting a set of touring tires. they dont grip as well, but they last easly twice as long. Just be sure you dont plan doing any aggressive riding if you go that route.
As far as the dual or triple compound tires. they are harder in the middle, and softer to the sides. But they are only softer to the sides when compared to the same type of tires, the middle is the same compound, just softer on the sides for more grip in the corners, so they wouldnt offer any more longevity over a single compound performance tire.
I personally run Michelin Pilot Powers. they seem to have more life than compareable dunlops or pirelli's, but they are a performance tire and you could get more life out of a harder compound touring tire. You should be able to save a little money as well with touring tires, they dont cost as much as performance tires.
Almost all tires that get replaced have the center worn out before the sides and have a distinct flat spot. Most bikes no matter how hard someone may ride, will see far more straight roads than curves. Plus, your bike is in a straight line for longer periods of time and the heat builds up in the center much more compared to the sides.
#3
03-18-2009, 02:00 AM
what is the most cost effective method of replacing tires (having the shop do it all, or buying your own and having the shop put the tires on the rims and balance as well as spending money on a stand (set?) so you can put them on the bike yourself?)
The dealer wanted $200 for the tire and $15 for the mount & balance = $215
I bought a new tire on e-Bay $138 and $35 for the mount & balance = $173
Savings of $42 ~ not much, but hey I'm cheap
*Both prices were for a Dunlop Qualifier.
As for the stands, they definitely make life a lot easier when working on your bike. They raise the bike up a little higher, and hold it level and steady. If you want to remove a wheel, change your sprockets, service forks ~ highly recommended.
Last edited by Incognito; 03-18-2009 at 02:02 AM.
#4
03-18-2009, 02:09 AM
#6
03-18-2009, 08:13 AM
#8
03-18-2009, 11:23 PM
I shall use the jcmotors website. I think ive heard of them before.
Now what specifically do i need to look for in relatively hard, long lasting touring tires on the cheap?
Whats the best way to find the best deal while shopping? is it a chance thing or is there a science to it?
also, regarding bike stands,
are they generally universal, fitting all motorcycles, or is there certain things i should be aware of before purchasing a set of stands?
and lastly, but not least,
regarding the cost-benefit analysis example provided by the helpful soul above, your saving the money by simply buying the tires on line and having the shop put them on the rims as well as the rims back on the bike itself, OR do you somehow save extra money (in labor?) by taking the tires removed from your bike (with rims), having the bike shop remove your old tires, put the new ones you buy (from the internet) elsewhere on the rims, and then balance them, while saving the relatively easy work of putting the rims back on the bike for yourself?
Wow, i'm such a pain in the butt.
I've asked more basic questions in the past week...
Now what specifically do i need to look for in relatively hard, long lasting touring tires on the cheap?
Whats the best way to find the best deal while shopping? is it a chance thing or is there a science to it?
also, regarding bike stands,
are they generally universal, fitting all motorcycles, or is there certain things i should be aware of before purchasing a set of stands?
and lastly, but not least,
regarding the cost-benefit analysis example provided by the helpful soul above, your saving the money by simply buying the tires on line and having the shop put them on the rims as well as the rims back on the bike itself, OR do you somehow save extra money (in labor?) by taking the tires removed from your bike (with rims), having the bike shop remove your old tires, put the new ones you buy (from the internet) elsewhere on the rims, and then balance them, while saving the relatively easy work of putting the rims back on the bike for yourself?
Wow, i'm such a pain in the butt.
I've asked more basic questions in the past week...
#9
03-19-2009, 12:14 AM
Wow, i'm such a pain in the butt.
Regarding your question, I believe the shop wanted an additional $15 or $20 for labor if I brought the bike in. Plus it would have taken longer than the 15 minutes I waited. Another thing is, while I had the wheel off, I cleaned the axle, dust covers, and spacers of the old dirty grease and put new grease on them. Also cleaned out the grime from the cush-drive and the sprocket. These are little details I'm certain the shop wouldn't have done.
A long time ago, I brought a car into Sears to have the tires changed. After the service, as I was driving away, I noticed a wobble. The kid that installed the rims back on forgot to tighten the right rear lug-nuts. That's one of many bad experiences I've had with shops, thus I tend to try and do as much of the work as I can. That, and for some weird reason I enjoy doing it
#10
03-19-2009, 03:17 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
The Bridgestone BT-016's are fantastic tires for a better price than the pilot powers 2ct's. The powers are generally thought of to be just a hair better but for a hundred bucks less the bt-016's have almost identical performance, including the multi compound setup. The bridgestones are a sweet deal.