I am currently in the process of checking and adjusting my valve clearance on my 2005 F4i. This is the first time I have checked my valves on my own. However all my valves except 2 are pretty tight. I wasn't noticing any performance issues before I checked them, but I feel like with all my valves being that far out of spec I should be having major problems. They are supposed to be 0.2 +/- 0.03 for the intake and 0.28 +/- 0.03 for the exhaust. I just think it doesn't seem right for all but two to be so far out of spec like that. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or if maybe for some reason I just happen to have a bunch of tight valves. Any input would be appreciated.

 

Hey Wyatt Yost, welcome to the forum. Also, I think it's great that you're doing this. Being a little concerned if you're doing it right or not is a good thing. So, on the intake any value from .17 to .23 is within spec. For the exhaust any value from .25 to .31 is within spec.

Describe the procedure you're using to determine the exact clearance you're measuring? Do you have feeler gauges for every .01 of a mm? Or are you having to combine 2 gauges like a .10 and a .13 to achieve .23 in a measurement?

Oh and by the way, I picked up my current 2006 F4i from a guy in Auburn, AL.

 

My feeler gauges go up by 0.001 inches but I was taking the measurements in millimeters because that's what my service manual had them in. I was not combining gauges. Some of the measurements I rounded up a little based on how loose the clearance was. I followed the service manual to take the measurements and I feel like I followed the directions correctly. I feel like my measurements on the exhaust valves are accurate, but since you have to bend the feelers to get down to the intake valves I am slightly less confident with those. Is it normal for all the valves to tighten up like this?

 

The fact you're making the effort to do this is fantastic. Yes, it can be challenging to get the gauge into a position so you can take an accurate measurement. I'm sure you're not going to want to hear this, but my recommendation is to get a metric set of feeler gauges. .001" is .0254 mm. That difference makes it harder to establish a go/no-go measurement, if you follow what I'm saying. If you can find a set that has the nut and screw that holds them together so you can take out the only 1 or 2 that you're using.

So, bike history. How many miles on the bike? Do you think they've ever been checked or adjusted before?

 

I just ordered a new set of gauges, I figured I would probably need to. It has about 36,000 miles on it. I've only had it for about 2 months. I'm not sure when the last time the valves where checked was. The previous owner was not good about maintenance, but I don't think he owned the bike for more than a few years. I just figured I ought to check since I am already replacing the CCT and it has so many miles on it.

 

Wyatt, I think you're on the right track and are making good choices with respect to the maintenance. Personally, I don't trust anyone but myself. I am always the one with a vested interest in the final outcome when it comes to working on my vehicles. Since your clearances are what I would call a fair ways off, I'd be inclined to check them again. Especially when you get the metric ones. Sometimes you may have to take additional things off the bike in order to make more room for you to get into a good position. The more you check them, the better you'll get a doing it.

Common causes of valves being out can be just normal wear and tear. If the engine is running dirty and lots of carbon getting built up on the valves and seats, that would typically cause the clearance to increase since the valve is not fully closing. If the valve seats were wearing out, then they'd be sitting further down (or up) into the body of the head. That would tend to close or tighten up the clearances. 36000 miles is not a huge amount of miles. I would not expect any significant wear on the seats with those few (and I do mean few) miles. I'm more inclined to thing that whoever did it before, didn't do it right. One word of caution. Make sure you're taking your measurements when the engine is at room temperature. The minimum is sitting overnight after being run before taking measurements.

A thought problem. What metal expands more with changes in temperature, aluminum or steel? What is the head made of and what are the valves made out of? Now think about what type of scenario could occur if you checked clearances when the engine was hot/warm.

 

Welcome, Wyatt! And congrats on deciding to do this yourself! I did mine just over a year ago (first time doing something that serious on a bike!) and I was nervous as hell! Lol!

My bike was @ 24k and all but one of mine were out of spec on the tight side. Talked with an old school mechanic acquaintance and he said the bike will make a bit more power with tight valves and he suggested leaving them as is! Uh, no thanks! I used these two sources as my guides - https://www.bayarearidersforum.com/f...ad.php?t=85499 &
Also, take pics as you go, especially of the camshaft timing marks! Having the engine canted can make it hard to recall exactly how the timing marks were lined up and having the frame in the way doesn't help!

 

I've attached a spreadsheet and entered your measured values. It calculates how far from spec the measurement is. If you then enter a measured value for how thick the currently installed shim is into the "Current shim size" field, it will calculate how thick the new shim needs to be in order to bring it back into spec. Keep in mind that shims only come in specific thicknesses. You'll have to pick the closest size shim to the calculated size.

If you don't have MS Excel, you can upload to Google Drive and then edit it in Google Sheets.



Values


Attached Spreadsheet

 

^^^ That is awesome! I drew up a little chart and OCD'd over my calculations about 20 times!

Also, keep in mind that you might be able to mix 'n match the current shims...

 

Phew, I was looking for a way to download... just though I was being thick