Woodcraft Clip-Ons and your F4i trackbike
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07-19-2007, 02:51 AM
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Woodcraft Clip-Ons and your F4i trackbike
I love my F4i, it's a tank and a great trackbike for a number of reasons. however, the one thing that gets on my nerves is the height of the OEM clip ons. For commuting to work it's great, because it saves your back, but on track it'd be nice to have a more aggressive riding position. Aftermarket rearsets compound the weirdness of the posture, since they generally move your feet up and back, but with the OEM bars, it sort of twists you into a weird pretzel. So i decided to get some woodcraft clip-ons and try to mount them below the triple tree (for a 2-3" drop and more adjustability in angle and length etc.). The problem with this is that there's some clearance issues that require some modification to get the setup to work...
So it wasn't easy, but, it works for now. Won't know until i ride the thing, which won't be for a while, as i do various things to the bike. Since my bike is track only and is not required to a) look pretty or b) be street legal, i've found ways to make it all work, but i do NOT recommend trying this with a street bike, because frankly, i don't think it'll work.
So as you know, the main problem with mounting the clipons under the 3x tree is that there are about 5 clearance issues you need to deal with. We'll get to those issues later, but the first thing is to mount the clip-ons. using the stock clip-ons as a guide for what angle the new bars should be at, mount them below the triple tree.
After the new bars are on, remove the oem clipons and remove all of the things you need to transfer and do so. I don't have the left control cluster (w/ hi-beam, turn signals or horn, because i have none of those things on my bike) so I think that that might simplify things on that side of the bike. There are no clearance issues going to full right-hand lock w/ just the clutch lever assembly.
The right side is a totally different story though. 2 things are going to have clearance issues on this side. The first is the throttle cable hardlines. They'll hit the fairing stay as you turn the wheel left. This is a relatively easy fix, as you can simply rotate the throttle assembly so that the hard lines are out of the way. this also gives you more room for the master cylinder, rotating it up or down. The MC is the main issue, as it will not only hit the fairing stay, but the gauge cluster. unfortunately, with the F4i's box MC, there's not much you can do about it besides relocating the gauge cluster. Just take it off and figure it out later. So, with no GC, the only interference with the MC is the fairing stay--you can find an angle where the reservoir clears, but as you get to full left lock, you'll notice your brake lines rubbing against the fairing stay. Brake lines aren't something i want to f*ck with, so getting them out of the way is important.
notice that the brake lines are pointed straight down
On the MC, you'll notice a little metal extension to keep the brake lines from rotating. Unfortunately, that piece of metal is in the way, so dremel it off. Whatever it's there for doesn't seem to be that important. once you rotate the brake lines down, and out of the way, you can then wiggle and find just the right lateral placement of the MC and angle.
At full lock, OEM levers will rub against the outside top of your lower fairings, but i'm guessing some shorties will fix the problem. or, if you have a ratty rattlecan paint job on some rashed fairings and don't give a fu*k, you leave em be. You'll also find that the throttle cable hard lines will hit your ram air ducts as you get to full right lock. It's not a big deal, a
So it wasn't easy, but, it works for now. Won't know until i ride the thing, which won't be for a while, as i do various things to the bike. Since my bike is track only and is not required to a) look pretty or b) be street legal, i've found ways to make it all work, but i do NOT recommend trying this with a street bike, because frankly, i don't think it'll work.
So as you know, the main problem with mounting the clipons under the 3x tree is that there are about 5 clearance issues you need to deal with. We'll get to those issues later, but the first thing is to mount the clip-ons. using the stock clip-ons as a guide for what angle the new bars should be at, mount them below the triple tree.
After the new bars are on, remove the oem clipons and remove all of the things you need to transfer and do so. I don't have the left control cluster (w/ hi-beam, turn signals or horn, because i have none of those things on my bike) so I think that that might simplify things on that side of the bike. There are no clearance issues going to full right-hand lock w/ just the clutch lever assembly.
The right side is a totally different story though. 2 things are going to have clearance issues on this side. The first is the throttle cable hardlines. They'll hit the fairing stay as you turn the wheel left. This is a relatively easy fix, as you can simply rotate the throttle assembly so that the hard lines are out of the way. this also gives you more room for the master cylinder, rotating it up or down. The MC is the main issue, as it will not only hit the fairing stay, but the gauge cluster. unfortunately, with the F4i's box MC, there's not much you can do about it besides relocating the gauge cluster. Just take it off and figure it out later. So, with no GC, the only interference with the MC is the fairing stay--you can find an angle where the reservoir clears, but as you get to full left lock, you'll notice your brake lines rubbing against the fairing stay. Brake lines aren't something i want to f*ck with, so getting them out of the way is important.
notice that the brake lines are pointed straight down
On the MC, you'll notice a little metal extension to keep the brake lines from rotating. Unfortunately, that piece of metal is in the way, so dremel it off. Whatever it's there for doesn't seem to be that important. once you rotate the brake lines down, and out of the way, you can then wiggle and find just the right lateral placement of the MC and angle.
At full lock, OEM levers will rub against the outside top of your lower fairings, but i'm guessing some shorties will fix the problem. or, if you have a ratty rattlecan paint job on some rashed fairings and don't give a fu*k, you leave em be. You'll also find that the throttle cable hard lines will hit your ram air ducts as you get to full right lock. It's not a big deal, a
#2
07-19-2007, 08:35 AM
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#3
07-19-2007, 09:34 AM
RE: Woodcraft Clip-Ons and your F4i trackbike
yup yup...even with the stuff mounted on top of the triples, which i gots, it'll hit the fairing stay. the ram air covers should be removed no matter what.
be careful when you get on that thing...even with the clip ons above, the bike feels very aggressive and completely new...it was enough to get me all jacked up with my turns. with it below...i'm sure it'll be an even bigger change...
be careful when you get on that thing...even with the clip ons above, the bike feels very aggressive and completely new...it was enough to get me all jacked up with my turns. with it below...i'm sure it'll be an even bigger change...
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