what kinda stand u guys have?
#2
05-22-2009 | 10:55 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 534
Likes: 2
From:
I use T-Rex stands.
Taking the back wheel off means you will have to realign the wheel and tension the chain correctly. Not too hard to do. It is basically everything in reverse from taking it off but accounting for adjusting the chaing. Just make sure that you torque the axle bolt back to 69 ft lbs.
Taking the back wheel off means you will have to realign the wheel and tension the chain correctly. Not too hard to do. It is basically everything in reverse from taking it off but accounting for adjusting the chaing. Just make sure that you torque the axle bolt back to 69 ft lbs.
#4
05-23-2009 | 08:08 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 534
Likes: 2
From:
For the chain lock nuts, you have to adjust both sides so they can be even. If they are not even, your tire will wear significantly faster, let alone other riding problems that you can have from a tilted wheel. When you adjust the chain, you will see hash marks on the side of the swing arm. Keep them both as even as possible. Usually eyeballing it will work, but sometimes I use a vernier caliper to measure both sides to makes sure that I am as even as possible.
Here is a good how to and videos:
http://www.shraz.net/motorcycle/f4i/drivechain/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRBkRKDlMtA
For the wheel lock nut, you will have to align the wheel and the axle nut is the smaller nut on the left (chain side) and the lock nut that you have to torque is on the other side (right side). When you put the wheel back on, don't tighten it too much at first but just enough so when you adjust your chain lock nuts that the wheel will allow for adjustment. Then when the chain is aligned correctly and has the right amount of slack, then torque the right axle lock nut.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPzveH80rrY
Here is a good how to and videos:
http://www.shraz.net/motorcycle/f4i/drivechain/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRBkRKDlMtA
For the wheel lock nut, you will have to align the wheel and the axle nut is the smaller nut on the left (chain side) and the lock nut that you have to torque is on the other side (right side). When you put the wheel back on, don't tighten it too much at first but just enough so when you adjust your chain lock nuts that the wheel will allow for adjustment. Then when the chain is aligned correctly and has the right amount of slack, then torque the right axle lock nut.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPzveH80rrY
#5
05-24-2009 | 06:27 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
I have a couple of PitBull stands. Good stuff. Well made, fair price.
As you know, the F4i doesn't have spools, so I installed a couple of T-Rex spools through the axle hole. Obviously, these have to come off to remove the wheel. The other option is to install spools on the swingarm, via welding for bored holes and rivnut inserts. I attached a pix here. (Hope it's not too big. I just did a Windows reload and haven't reinstalled the software to resize it.)
Remove the wheel is easy enough and so is getting it back on. As mentioned, you need to get the wheel alignment right, but if you don't change the chain tensioner position, it won't change much when you reinstall.
Still, it's worth checking it. I use the string method.
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryde...ntmethod.shtml
--Paul
As you know, the F4i doesn't have spools, so I installed a couple of T-Rex spools through the axle hole. Obviously, these have to come off to remove the wheel. The other option is to install spools on the swingarm, via welding for bored holes and rivnut inserts. I attached a pix here. (Hope it's not too big. I just did a Windows reload and haven't reinstalled the software to resize it.)
Remove the wheel is easy enough and so is getting it back on. As mentioned, you need to get the wheel alignment right, but if you don't change the chain tensioner position, it won't change much when you reinstall.
Still, it's worth checking it. I use the string method.
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryde...ntmethod.shtml
--Paul
#6
05-24-2009 | 11:09 AM
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
I have a couple of PitBull stands. Good stuff. Well made, fair price.
As you know, the F4i doesn't have spools, so I installed a couple of T-Rex spools through the axle hole. Obviously, these have to come off to remove the wheel. The other option is to install spools on the swingarm, via welding for bored holes and rivnut inserts. I attached a pix here. (Hope it's not too big. I just did a Windows reload and haven't reinstalled the software to resize it.)
Remove the wheel is easy enough and so is getting it back on. As mentioned, you need to get the wheel alignment right, but if you don't change the chain tensioner position, it won't change much when you reinstall.
Still, it's worth checking it. I use the string method.
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryde...ntmethod.shtml
--Paul
As you know, the F4i doesn't have spools, so I installed a couple of T-Rex spools through the axle hole. Obviously, these have to come off to remove the wheel. The other option is to install spools on the swingarm, via welding for bored holes and rivnut inserts. I attached a pix here. (Hope it's not too big. I just did a Windows reload and haven't reinstalled the software to resize it.)
Remove the wheel is easy enough and so is getting it back on. As mentioned, you need to get the wheel alignment right, but if you don't change the chain tensioner position, it won't change much when you reinstall.
Still, it's worth checking it. I use the string method.
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryde...ntmethod.shtml
--Paul
#7
05-24-2009 | 12:08 PM
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: va beach
You have to back out on your chain tensioners almost all the way so you can get the chain off the sprocket. Then take the axel nut off then just pull the axel out. Make sure you dont let your brake caliper hang it will put excess stress on the line. Oh yeah make sure the wheel spacers are back in right or it can mess things up when you go ride the bike again
