Also, I'm in Philadelphia and we get freezing/sub-freezing temps so I would rather not use the water + water wetter as it would force me to change my coolant liquid twice in between storage.

 

So, here is an update.

I did a coolant change, rode around and in stop/go traffic, my temps went up to about 231F.

I Flushed with distilled water twice and started the bike each time to get the water circulating through the cooling system to get a good clear consistency of the drainage. I then used Prestone Extended life, the one that is safe for aluminum engines and silicate/borate free, to fill. I ran the bike with the Prestone to get the new fluid circulating, then I drained (I know is wasting new fluid, but it was the only way I could know that most of the plain water was out). Then I filled with more Prestone and followed the usual procedure for purging air and waiting for the bike to get to temperature and cooling off, then checking the coolant level again.

So, I am back to wondering if something could be wrong since the Engine Ice is all out of the bike. The fan kicks on at 227F, but the bike still goes up to 231F sometimes. Everything else seems normal. I am interested in checking the other components like mentioned earlier, but don't know how or know if I can (lack of specialized tools). I guess the first step is to check the radiator cap for pressure. I assume I need a specialized tool for that. Any idea of the cost or of what the charge would be for a bike shop to test the cap pressure for me?

Thanks for the help you all have given me so far.

 

What day where you riding? If the day we hit triple digits, I'd stop worrying.

The only thing that really stands out is your fan seems to be kicking in late. Ororo usually kicked in around 223 or so. As for taking the bike to a shop to test the rad cap, you might as well just buy a new one for what it'll prolly cost you locally. Philly Cycle Center and Crossroads Honda will murder you. And I don't trust Wolf Cycles

 

I experienced the 231F yesterday when the ambient temps were in the mid 80's. A couple degrees higher when we were in the mid 90s two weeks ago.


You are probably right about buying a new radiator cap. I stay away from Philly Cycle Center and any big name shops anyway, but if I need anything like an inspection (which I will probably stop getting done anyway as it seems like a waste of money - but that is a story for another day), I go to two local smaller shops.

Since I got the bike, my fan always has kicked in at 227F. Do you have a mod that kicks your fan on at 223?

 

"If you live somewhere that see's freezing temps then thats a good idea.
If you live in phoenix there is no need for anti freeze [coolant] in the system."

Anti-freeze also increases the boiling point and enhances the heat-exchange
properties over straight water. It also contains corrossion inhibitors, to protect on
that front, as well. Considering the nominal cost, I recommend running with it,
in any climate.

The whole point to a pressure cap, is to contain the fluid past boiling point.
With straight water that's 220f, 50/50 pushes that to 225f, add a
14-18psi pressure cap (98F3 spec) and you're looking at 239f-244f
factory spec. Consider being worried when the temp climbs to 240f+.

As far as the temps you're running, I don't see any issues there.
Unless you are experiencing power losses, etc., you should be fine
with the temps you're reporting.

Ern

 

No mod. Ororo was stock. Fan on the f4i normally kicks in around there. There's a mod on here somewhere to get it to kick on about 210. I was riding yesterday and today. Yolie hit 225 when I got stuck on Washington ave. And I know nothing is wrong with her.

So other than checking into why the fan comes on late (and it's not seriously late) I don't see anything to be concerned about yet.

 

According to the repair manual, your fan should turn on between 208-216 oF
Why does yours kick on so late?

 

what's a good way, when you're bleeding the coolant system, to make sure all the air has been purged? like how can you tell?

 

Everything I've ever read from manufacturers states the opposite. Water is well known to conduct heat better then coolant.

 

Cheers